Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just finished (i mean just, like 5 hours ago) assembling a 2005 switch sl with a shiver sc

fork w/5" of travel. during the middle of the "parking lot test" i have come to the conclusion

that you (meaning the rider) sits very high over the bike, not really in the bike as i have

grown used to on my spec. bighit. does this affect the handling? do you have to throw the

bike around a lot to get it to move? im a little guy (5'2" 126#) and my goal was to build a

light AM bike (check that part off!) that didnt require me to train every other day just to

ride it. some feedback would be well appreciated as i have not yet got to ride the thing on

trails and i know how much of a difference a "real world" test is compared to the "parking

lot" test. thanks guys.
 

·
Loser
Joined
·
5,536 Posts
Congrats on the bike

I have a 2005 Switch SL as well. My last bike was a Titus RX100. The RX is more of a XC race bike, 4" of travel front and back. I got the Switch on a bit of a whim. I ride mainly technical XC. Typical rides for me are 12-20 miles long with relatively short, but steep ascents and descents. I'm 160lbs or so. I'm running a coil rear with a 600# spring.

I assumed the Switch and RX would see equal riding time. I got the Switch in June and haven't really ridden the RX since then. While its true that you sit up relatively high on the Switch, I have no issues throwing the bike around and carving turns. My downhill speed has definitely increased dramatically. I hate to admit it, but I guess my uphill speed has probably dropped off a bit, but only a little.

Its a really fun bike to ride. I get some stares from the locals when they see me riding XC on it, but typically those stares go away when we ride, as I can usually keep up with (or lead) any group. Propedal is amazing at keeping the rear still while pedaling.

I won't bore you with pictures, but if you do a search on my screename here you can find a few.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
I guess the Switch has a higher BB than somebike because it's designed to have more clearance for logs and rocks etc. That's something RM does on a lot of their bikes. In terms of how that affects the handling...I'm not totally sure, I really like mine. If you wanna feel more in the bike maybe try some handlebars with more rise and add a bit more sag in the rear end. It also probably doesn't help that you have a 5" fork up front because a lower front end will definately add to the 'on' the bike feeling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yea, i understand what you mean with the high bb, that sure will come in handy as i like

to pedal through everything! thats good to hear about the handling on the bike though, it

really worried me at first. but after riding some urban today (some 6 stairs and loading

dock drops) i have come to the conclusion that this will be a super fun bike on the trail!

this thing is so LIGHT! well, compared to my ex 43 lb big hit, dropping ten pounds makes

a huge difference. mine has the vanilla rc rear shock, does yours have the same? or if not

what does yours have? im not sure if im liking the shock so far, but well have to test it on

some trails, drops to flat dont give good impressions for most shocks, but im thinking of

a dhx air or a roco. what do ya think? yay or nay? thanks for the responses guys!
 

·
Loser
Joined
·
5,536 Posts
Dhx4.0

redrider11 said:
what does yours have?
I have a DHX4.0 Coil on mine. Its my first coil rear shock and I really like it. I've had Fox air shocks on my other bike and its just not as smooth as coil.

I am not liking the Zoke Z1FR1 on front all that much. The springs are too stiff for me. I talked to Zoke and they said they do not sell softer springs for it. I heard that you can pull one of the springs and just use air (the Z1FR1 has an air preload) - though Zoke doesn't recommend this. I don't know if I buy that or not... I'm having the LBS put lighter oil in this time, hopefully that will improve its compression rate. I can ride as hard as I dare and still not use up all the squish. I think in 6 months of owning this bike I've only used that last inch of suspension 2 or 3 times.

John

Lame-O pic of my Switch SL:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
I'm pretty sure the i2i is 7.5" with a 2" stroke.

Jisch, I'm surprised you're not diggin the Z1 FR1...in my experience it's too soft if you don't have any air preload. I tried running it without any air and it felt great but it would bottom on any drop over about 2 feet...just by pushing on it in the parking lot I could almost bottom it out (I weigh 160lbs). I also found that the top inch or so of the travel is dead without any air so you gain a little small bump sensitivity if you add a smidgen of air. In my experience, with 0 PSI, if I'm not even on the bike and I push the fork down it won't rebound 100%, but rather it stops about 1/2" from the top (regardless of the rebound setting). With 5 psi that's fixed.

I tried running 15psi and it wouldn't bottom any more but it also lost a lot of small bumb sensitivity...it was really too stiff unless you're just doing hits/hucks. I ended up dropping the PSI to about 5 and I feel that's a great setup. It's good on small bumps and for normal trail riding with the entire travel being active (no deadspot at the top like with 0 PSI). It's still not that stuff but as long as I'm fairly fluid I go up to 5-6 ft without bottoming. In my experience the PSI makes a huge difference in how this fork feels.

Redrider, regarding the rear shock, the 2005 Switch has a fairly linear rate for the suspension I believe which is okay but a rising rate is ideal IMO because it retains the small bump sensitivity while still enabiling you to do bigger hits. My Switch SL has a Fox Float RP3 shock on it and it's nice because I can easily adjust the air pressure depending on ride type but I would prefer a shock like the DHX where I can adjust more stuff like the bottom out control to make it more of a rising rate suspension. My vote goes for the DHX air because it offers that plus it's relatively lightweight. From what I've heard, the Roco is an awesome feeling freeride shock but you really don't want to be trail riding it so if you do some of that too then it's probably not your best bet. With a DHX you can adjust the amount of platform feel so you can make it non-platform like the Roco for big hit enjoyment and still dial it in for trails too. If you do a lot of hits I'd go DHX Coil but if you're weight concious then a DHX Air seems like the way to go.
 

·
Loser
Joined
·
5,536 Posts
dandurston said:
Jisch, I'm surprised you're not diggin the Z1 FR1...in my experience it's too soft if you don't have any air preload. I tried running it without any air and it felt great but it would bottom on any drop over about 2 feet...just by pushing on it in the parking lot I could almost bottom it out (I weigh 160lbs). I also found that the top inch or so of the travel is dead without any air so you gain a little small bump sensitivity if you add a smidgen of air. In my experience, with 0 PSI, if I'm not even on the bike and I push the fork down it won't rebound 100%, but rather it stops about 1/2" from the top (regardless of the rebound setting). With 5 psi that's fixed.

I tried running 15psi and it wouldn't bottom any more but it also lost a lot of small bumb sensitivity...it was really too stiff unless you're just doing hits/hucks. I ended up dropping the PSI to about 5 and I feel that's a great setup. It's good on small bumps and for normal trail riding with the entire travel being active (no deadspot at the top like with 0 PSI). It's still not that stuff but as long as I'm fairly fluid I go up to 5-6 ft without bottoming. In my experience the PSI makes a huge difference in how this fork feels.
Thanks for the info Dan. I just had the LBS put lighter oil in my fork and its vastly more sensitive than it was. I don't know what was in there before, but it's never been as sensitive as it is now. I can now put in air for preload. I'll use some of your numbers above as a guide. Before the oil change I could not get full travel out of the shock, now I can if I really hammer on it.

The unfortunate thing here is that even though its very sensitive, I get a clanking sound on quick hits. Over in the Shock forum they said it could be a loose spring (which doesn't sound like a critical issue). Hopefully at the end of this process, I'll be loving this fork.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
One quirk I had with my fork is that initially, it wouldn't hold air. When I'd fill it up, the air would just hiss out. My brother suggested overfilling it to kinda push the seal into place so I pumped it up to 30 psi (max is 15psi) and then unscrewed the air pump and from then on it's always held air...I'm not really sure why I'm saying this though...

In my opinion, you always want to run a Z1 FR1 with some air, even if it's just a little. I find the springs aren't quite stiff enough to really make the first inch of travel usable otherwise. You can certainly get the fork to bounce up all the way if your rebound is set fast but try pushing the fork down 1/2" with no weight on the bike. If it stays down then you need a bit of air.

About your clank, I'm not really sure what to say...I'd try different amount of air and rebound damping to see if that makes a difference. The lighter oil might not be helping that either. You might wanna try a slower rebound setting with only a little air...good luck!
 

·
Loser
Joined
·
5,536 Posts
LBS called...

dandurston said:
About your clank, I'm not really sure what to say...I'd try different amount of air and rebound damping to see if that makes a difference. The lighter oil might not be helping that either. You might wanna try a slower rebound setting with only a little air...good luck!
LBS called - said they fixed the fork. Based upon the comments over in the Shocks forum, I bet they left some spacers out when they put it back together. I haven't actually talked to the wrench yet.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all the info dandurston, ill mainly be using this bike for "technical trailriding" pretty much the

trail i am building this bike for has a mix of xc flowy singletrack and some well known

shuttle sections as well. there are no really big drops, i think the biggest is about two feet

at the most, but its extremely rocky in the shuttle sections and has some high speed

jumps and is really high speed and pedally on the xc sections. i was looking at the rp3 as

well because of the three modes you can use, that seems to be a nice feature, but

because of all the rocks im thinking i would want something with a piggyback so the fluid

can move around easier. do you ride rocky trails? and how is your shock in these

secitons? thanks again for all the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Redrider:

My first Switch was a 2003 Switch Ltd. that I bought in early 2005 at a sick clearance price online (frame only = $869). I built that bike up as you can see below but when I completed the build and went for a ride I noticed grease ozing out of a crack in the frame (right behind the BB). I noticed that when I got the frame but I figured it was just a paint crack before.



Anyways, the point is, that my first Switch had a coil shock (Van R) and when RM warrenteed the frame with the 2005 Switch SL I was initially disappointed/concerned about the Float RP3 Airshock because I figured it wouldn't hold up. Freeriding is my passion but I love trailriding too and I don't really have any buddies to freeride with so I ended doing about 80% AM type riding and 20% freeriding (ie. 4-7 ft drops). What I'm trying to say is that when I first got the Float RP3 it was unintentional and I was skeptical. I was disappointed because I figured that I'd have to buy another shock in a few months but I decided to keep the RP3 and just 'ride it to the ground' and then replace it.

However, to my surprise, I've been digging the RP3. Not only is this shock superlight (I think it's less than 1/2 the weight of even a DHX Air) but it's been totally bomb proof. It took me a few rides to figured out what kind of PSI to run (my rule of thumb = rider weight (in PSI) +/- 15 depending on your anticipated level of aggression). I do notice that because it's an airshock it doesn't feel quite as smooth/plush as a coil shock but it's pretty darn close, it weights a whole lot less and it's super easy adjust for the ride conditions.

The one thing that I would like is the ability to adjust the 'bottom out control' like you can do with a DHX but that's only an issue when I'm planning on doing some bigger hits because when I crank up the PSI to handle bigger (4+ feet) hits then the small bump sensitivity suffers. So in conclusion, the RP3 seems like a great shock that is perfect for anyone who does primarily aggressive trailriding or is doing bigger hits and doesn't need the small bump sensitivity at the same time. The only type of rider that I'd say shouldn't be using this shock is someone doing ultra aggresive trail riding (ie. North Shore trails) where you'd have to stiffen it way up for the big hits and then it would suffer over roots etc. However, because you said you're not hitting stuff over 2 feet this shock may be perfect for you. I'd say you can set this shock up to ride well on the trails and still handle drops up to 4-5 ft but if you set it up for drops bigger than that, it won't work as well on the small trail bumps. Does that make sense?

Oh and the RP3 is amazing....I'd never ridden a platform shock before this and I wasn't expecting much but this shock blew me away...a simple flick of the lever makes a very noticable difference in pedalling. If you stay seated there won't be any bob and even standing you have to try to make bob. Supposedly the 2006 RP3 has even more radical 'propedal' adjustments so I assume it's even better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
What width of handlebars are you guys running? When I built up my Switch I bought some Azonic World Force riser bars but I cut them down to about 24-25" to make bar spins and X-ups easier but I've found that it's hurting my high speed trail riding (because the turning is quicker and my riding stance is narrower) and it's hurting my skinny riding (because of the narrower (less stable) stance). I'm thinking about picking up some Diabolus bars (to go with my Diabolus stem) and keeping them around 27".
 

·
Loser
Joined
·
5,536 Posts
Passive aggressive...

dandurston said:
Jisch, why don't you give that zip-tie a little snip?
I know this is going to sound stupid, but I leave it long because one of my riding buds is really anal about that kind of thing. It drives him crazy. Just a little fun....

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Jisch said:
I know this is going to sound stupid, but I leave it long because one of my riding buds is really anal about that kind of thing. It drives him crazy. Just a little fun....
That doesn't sound stupid at all...that's a great reason...that kind of fun is definately worth 2 more grams on your bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks a bunch. that makes a ton of sense. im looking into buyin an rp3 now. i dont

think the small bump sensitivity suffering would bother me that much. ive ridden nearly all

the trails at northstar (with the exceptions of boondocks and the waterfall/lower section of

karpiel) on a p.3 with 100mm blacks up front. plus im lookin for low weight with this bike.

thanks again to dandurston and jisch you two are a great help!

-redrider11-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
If you're interested I'm considering selling my RP3 (your question got me thinking and I might buy a DHX and just use my hard tail for XC rides) which I wasn't considering when I wrote the glowing review above....anyways, if you're interested let me know but it would need to be a decent price because I'd need to be well on my way to a DHX since I don't have a lot of spending $$$ right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi John

Taking one spring out works pretty well. You can remove the spring from the damping side. Than you have the same spring weight as the all mountain 1 has. The springs in the ETA side are the same. You can check this on the marz. page. There is a springtable.
"05- All Mountain 1 c.110-130 n°1 5141329"
"05- Z1 FR 1 TA c.150 5141278 + 5141354"
"06- All Mountain 1 c.130>150 n°1 5141278"
"06- Z1 Light + ETA c.150 n°1 5141278"
From above tabel you can see that the type5141278 is used in the 06 models of all Mountain and Z1, and they use only one spring (n°1). I would try this first.
I did this on my Z1FR1 and it works fine. I set the preload a approx 10psi. To avoid bottoming you can add oil at the HSCV leg.

Hoping this can help you

Regards, Ronny
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top