Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 142 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
They said they shouldn't wear out that fast and said to file a warranty claim through Jenson. Unfortunately, I need them by Friday, so I'm gonna have to source my own.
Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Wow That sux... Good luck i still would put a claim in just to have a extra pair for sure..
Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.:madman:

They have no more than 7 days use in wet/muddy conditions and the pivot was tightened at the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Yea, I will... now I just have to figure out how to get the bearing out since the only thing still intact is the outer shell.:madman:
I have had pretty good luck removing blown bearings with one of these: http://www.princessauto.com/worksho...-repair/8104036-blind-hole-bearing-puller-set

The expanding surface is a lip, and I have found that if it can be fit in the groove where the bearings usually run it will provide enough purchase for removal. Slide hammer need not be used, the expander can just be tapped out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Im with Veteran Youth, bearing puller is definatly the best way to go so as not to damage the rest of pivot.
If you dont wanna buy one just head down to your mechanic and they should be able to pull it out for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
them all up to the correct Torque.

Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
and a joy to ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
and a joy to ride.
Both my local shop and Jenson (who sold me the frame) have told me that Yeti used low quality bearings in my frame. I have received replacement bearings of the same quality, but Jenson said Yeti wouldn't have the better quality bearings for at least 2 weeks. This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.

And I agree with you about the torque specs and greasing the axels... I did that first thing when I got the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I got my SB66 last week and during the build i noticed that the pivot pin was a bit chewed
and a few scuffs on the paintwork around the pin. So i checked the torque and it was in excess
of 90-95 in/lb maximum (10.5 Nm in real money).
I dont know exactly how much by but it took some real force to undo it and i done it up to
the correct torque of 10.5Nm - i tried it and it took little effort to undo it at 10.5Nm.

All the others were well under the 10.5Nm as stated int he SB66 Yeti manual so i done
them all up to the correct Torque.

Also i took out the dogbone link pins and found them difficult to remove because they were
not greased and were bone dry.. so i applied a small bit of grease as stated in the manual.

So it's a possibility that your bearing issue could have been a result of over or under Torque.
Personally i don't really blame Yeti as i'd say it's our responsibility to check and Torque correctly
as it's part of your build and riding maintenance to check these things IMO... but those early
adopters didn't have manual available with the correct torque values???

Chewed bolts, paint chips and not greasing the pivot pins aren't on though ;(.

Really really impressed with how the bike rides and handles.. really surpassed my
expectations... certainly better than my 575 over most terrain... awesome bike
and a joy to ride.
Bummer. Mine had the exact some thing. A few scuffs on the paintwork on the switch pivot axle from the factory was really fishy and found out later that the bearings turned out to be notchy. Took it back to the LBS last week where they said another frame had the exact same problems and they've narrowed it down to bad bearing tolerances. Link pins were also bone dry when it was dismantled at the LBS. It's been 4 days now and the shop is still trying to get it sorted out.

Yeti, if you're reading this, I wasn't hoping to pay over 2 grand for something that should be fixed out of the box. Not happy at all..
 

·
Int'l Sales - PIVOT
Joined
·
778 Posts
This makes me think that Yeti rushed to get this frame out and as a result settled for crappy bearings. At this point it doesn't really matter, but I would expect high quality bearings in a frame costing $2200.
Penny-

Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

John P.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Penny-

Very sorry to hear about your issue. I can definitely appreciate your frustration, but your speculation is inaccurate. Our factory made a mistake and specced some incorrect bearings on part of our production run, and it looks like you received one of them. Huge bummer, and again, very sorry about that.

Because the branding on the bearings is tiny, we completely missed that the wrong bearings were used during our QC process, and that's on us for missing it. However, we didn't intentionally use crappy bearings in a rush to get these to market.

For you and anyone else who's experiencing bearing issues, all you need to do is talk to the dealer from which you bought the bike, and we'll get some new ones out to you - no questions asked - very quickly.

We hope you'll accept our apologies for the screw-up,

John P.
Thanks for the reply. Does this only apply to the Switch bearings or all of the bearings? Also, curious how they are incorrect....

I got a new set of crappy bearings from my dealer, but they said the good ones would be 2 weeks. Is this correct?
 
1 - 20 of 142 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top