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Can Tree Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gentledudes,

I am getting a barely used RP3 for my Burner. It's not in hand yet, and I want to know if I'll be able to use the shock mount bushings from the 3-way. If they are not the same size I'll have to order new ones for the RP3 and I want to get a head start on that.

When I slap this puppy on, where do I use lube/grease, and what do I keep dry? I thought that that all of the shock mounting surfaces were kept dry but cactuscorn's sweak-be-gone list mentioned greasing the outer surfaces of the bushings where they contact the frame. Any definitive guidelines here?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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youll need some fox reducers. they should know exactly what ya need for yer combo. if ya dont wanna wait for them, try mountain high or a good local shop for faster gratification. fox tends to be rather slow.

as far as my suggestion to grease, id only try that if ya had a squeek issue, otherwise leave em dry.
 

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cactuscorn said:
youll need some fox reducers. they should know exactly what ya need for yer combo. if ya dont wanna wait for them, try mountain high or a good local shop for faster gratification. fox tends to be rather slow.

as far as my suggestion to grease, id only try that if ya had a squeek issue, otherwise leave em dry.
Agreed - went from a 3way to a Float (same shock body), and got my reducers from PUSH, who had them to me lickety split. Try them or Larry vs. going to Fox. I believe the price was $16?? but my memory ain't so good no more.
 

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Lay off the Levers
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I was thinking your squeak control suggestion as refering to only greasing the bolt and washer surfaces. I was pretty certain one should never grease the reducers. Neither the outer surfaces nor the part that inserts into the shock eyelet. The idea being the reducers are not supposed to rotate at all to avoid wear on the frame and rocker faces, and the eyelet has a self lubricating insert.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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i hear ya pal. yer right, i was referrin to the outermost surfaces of the reducers. my suggestion was based off of squish's find a few months back and only suggests a very, very, VERY light application to remove a annoyin sound, not allow the reducers to acctually move. i believe this could be done without any risk of damage as you pointed out but hey... ive been known to be way off base before. darren? whats yer take on this?

thanx zilla. yer opinions have always been worth our time.

(edit: ive written both push and turner to get some end all be all advice on this. sure would be lame to be givin out advice that would ruin someons stuff. stay tuned!)
 

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lube it

we ride around in the dirty dusty muddy wet areas of earth. Lube of some kind is good.
The most incredibly silent bike I ever rode was Pepi's from northern Italy, now the Fox service center honch. As an ex factory Ford rally car tech this guy assembled everything with a layer of anti seize and when I rode his bike up the side of the valley through the apple orchards it was silent, not the slightest pop or creak or anything. He showed and told me how every single junction on a bike was assembled with a light layer of the stuff.
If the bolts are tight, the reducers will not move. I think that the inside of the reducers should be lubed as well, they turn so why not grease em? The will get coated with some kinda dirt regardless whether they are bone dry or greasy. My 2c

DT
 

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turnerbikes said:
this guy assembled everything with a layer of anti seize and when I rode his bike up the side of the valley through the apple orchards it was silent, not the slightest pop or creak or anything. He showed and told me how every single junction on a bike was assembled with a light layer of the stuff.
Did you have silver all over your hands after riding Pepsi's bike? I use anti-seize on a lot of non-rotating spots on my bike, and it works great to prevent squeaks and creaks, but it sure makes a mess. Pain in the @ss to clean off your bike and hands!
 

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Yesterday I removed and remounted my RP3 trying to get rid of a loud creak. When I popped the reducers out of the shock they were prepped with red locktite. The stuff that hardens and is meant to hold fast. So thats what I put on them before inserting them back into the shock. I greased every other contact point while remounting the shock. Hope its the correct install.

The creak turned out to be lack of enough grease on a recent BB install. More grease, creak gone, gawd these bikes are quiet!
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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shock police! stop right there!

FridaHeel said:
Yesterday I removed and remounted my RP3 trying to get rid of a loud creak. When I popped the reducers out of the shock they were prepped with red locktite. The stuff that hardens and is meant to hold fast. So thats what I put on them before inserting them back into the shock. I greased every other contact point while remounting the shock. Hope its the correct install.

The creak turned out to be lack of enough grease on a recent BB install. More grease, creak gone, gawd these bikes are quiet!
ummmm.... thats not locktite. looks kinda like it but its far from it. now that i gave ya the bad news, the good news is that push, mountain high cycles, fox or maybe yer local shop can replace both the reducers and the now killed bushings for ya. it takes dedicated tools to do this job, not a at home with dads tool kit kinda opperation. so thats more bad news. oh yeah, one more bit of happy info. dont, i mean do not ride that shock till those parts are replaced! youll ruin both the lower shaft and the upper assembly or the frame and rockers, maybe all 4.
 

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Thanks for the heads up. Luckily I rode last night after putting the shock on. The loctite never set up. I got the reducers out. Now what is the red stuff they were mounted with originally? I thought the reducers were not supposed to move inside the shock bushing.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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i talked to the fox guy and push about this months back and to be honest i dont recall just what it is other than its some kinda prep fox uses. cant even recall if push uses it. the idea of that bushing is to allow the reducers to pivot slightly with shock movement inside it, not the bushing to move within the shock body. ya only missed it by a few hundreds of a inch. if ya get in a pickle, i have some spare bushings but no reducers i an give up at the moment. still theres the bushing tool ya need.
 

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Lay off the Levers
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trying to clarify my previous...

... yes the reducers are supposed to remain fixed when pinched between the rockers and/or frame mounts. As the position of the shock changes through the compression stroke, the shock body, and thus the eyelet inserts that are fixed in them, rotate very slightly around the reducers (those silver top-hats). As the eyelet inserts wear against the reducers, the debris acts as a dry lubricant. The inserts themselves should not move within the shock body eyelet...they only move along with entire shock body as it changes position, relative to the reducers. Man this is tough to describe, I hope I didn't confuse things.

When I mentioned greasing the bolt, I also ment to indicate greasing the bolt-shaft should be fine...I think that is the same as greasing the insides of the reducers as DT suggested.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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heres some info i got from dt while discussin this whole lube thing. i asked why antisieze instead of grease thinkin it was kinda "chunky" as i put it....

"I believe that anti seize has a limited/designed amount of lubricty, that is why it is used on bolts where torque settings are important. Grease will allow a much higher load on the fastener than a dry or a anti seized bolt would show on the wrench, which would negate the reading therefore the value of using the torque wrench."

the shaman speaks!
 

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Bite Me.
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cactuscorn said:
still theres the bushing tool ya need.
CC here's a slick trick my LBS performed for me to remove the bushing from the shock body without a bushing tool - you need a vice and a set of metric sockets - the mechanic found a socket with an OD that was slightly smaller that the inside diameter of the shock mount hole for the bushing, but big enough to butt up against the exposed end of the bushing. On the other end of the shock body he placed a socket that was bigger than the inside diameter of the shock mount hole but small enough to rest against the shaft body. Holding these pieces in place he put the set up in the vice and slowly cranked it down. The small socket pushed the bushing right out and into the opening of the larger socket - took about 2 minutes.
 

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Natl. Champ DH Poser/Hack
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yep. thats been known to work in a pinch. my worry is the rounded face of the socket. the fox tool negates this and basically uses the same vise method for removal and replacement. just more sanno and less risk of damage. thanx pal.
 

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Can Tree Member
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
DLine said:
Agreed - went from a 3way to a Float (same shock body), and got my reducers from PUSH, who had them to me lickety split. Try them or Larry vs. going to Fox. I believe the price was $16?? but my memory ain't so good no more.
Hey, thanks guys. I've seeing it as grease on the bolt shaft (and insides of the reducers), probably dry but maybe a dab of anti-seize/gray goop on the outside faces of the reducers where they touch the frame and rockers, dry between the reducers and and the bushings in the eyelets. And maybe a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads, but I've always left nylon locknuts dry.

DLine, did you mount the body up or down? It looks like a tight fit for the PP lever beween the rocker plates (assuming that you put the air valve facing out).
 
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