[merijn101]

Got a 2010 Lyrik solo air with only rebound in my new Speci Enduro. But also have a 2008 Coil Uturn with motion control in my Canyon Torque. Love the feel of the coil and would like to have that on my Enduro. Sadly the 2008 is a 1, 1/8 and the 2010 a 1,5-1,1/8, so no easy fork swap.
Can I swap the internals?
Would this be a hard job aka taking the whole forks apart, or can I "just" take out the top parts?
Any help here?

 

['size]

Got a 2010 Lyrik solo air with only rebound in my new Speci Enduro. But also have a 2008 Coil Uturn with motion control in my Canyon Torque. Love the feel of the coil and would like to have that on my Enduro. Sadly the 2008 is a 1, 1/8 and the 2010 a 1,5-1,1/8, so no easy fork swap.
Can I swap the internals?
Would this be a hard job aka taking the whole forks apart, or can I "just" take out the top parts?
Any help here?

why not just get a 1.5 - 1.125 reducer headset?

 

[Hardtails Are Better]

[QUOTE='size]why not just get a 1.5 - 1.125 reducer headset?[/QUOTE]
Because the tapered fork won't fit on the other bike. That way the Enduro would be fine, but not the other bike.

The coil spring in the Canyon's fork will have likely scuffed up the inside of the stanchion, making it unsuitable for the solo air internals. The dampers will swap over fine, so you could at least do that if you feel comfortable taking both forks apart. If you want a coil fork on the Enduro, your best bet is going to be to buy a second set of coil guts from RS and drop that in.

 

['size]

Because the tapered fork won't fit on the other bike. That way the Enduro would be fine, but not the other bike.

The coil spring in the Canyon's fork will have likely scuffed up the inside of the stanchion, making it unsuitable for the solo air internals. The dampers will swap over fine, so you could at least do that if you feel comfortable taking both forks apart. If you want a coil fork on the Enduro, your best bet is going to be to buy a second set of coil guts from RS and drop that in.

of course, i missed the swap part.

 

[merijn101]

Thanks HAB, that's some very good advice! I asked the TF guys in the UK for in internal coil, they can deliver. Holland is a bit slow in that because we have no mountains, we have not many people riding Lyrik forks ;-) That with the damper is fine.

Do I have to take the lowers of and refill the forks with oil for this? I do like to work on my bike, but have never serviced forks before. Don;t want to destroy them. Is it hard and do I need special tools, or is a good toolset and some elbow grease enough? Order oil at the motoshop?

 

[Hardtails Are Better]

Yeah, you're going to need to take the lowers off. No specialized tools or anything needed, just a couple allen wrenches, a crescent wrench, a rubber mallet, and a snap ring pliar. An oil refill will also be needed. A moto shop's a good place to pick that up. Rock Shox has good directions on their website, and it's not a hard job.

 

[the.vault]

I think the compression damper, motion control part, will probably work.

For 2010 the travel in the Lyrik forks was increased. Supposedly the rebound damper on 2010 forks is backwards compatible. Swapping some of the parts that connect the lowers to uppers of the might cause problems, especially on the springs side of the fork. That is the side that usually limits travel.

For 2010 the dampers were on the Lyriks upgraded, on both the compression and rebound side, (on the non-cheapo, non-OEM forks.) If you want the best performing fork, that is probably the way to go. Any rockshox dealer should be able to get those parts.

I have a Lyrik which I really like, but it takes some service to keep it running nice. Basically just changing the oil bath, which is a really simple job.

 

[Hardtails Are Better]

I think the compression damper, motion control part, will probably work.

For 2010 the travel in the Lyrik forks was increased. Supposedly the rebound damper on 2010 forks is backwards compatible. Swapping some of the parts that connect the lowers to uppers of the might cause problems, especially on the springs side of the fork. That is the side that usually limits travel.

For 2010 the dampers were on the Lyriks upgraded, on both the compression and rebound side, (on the non-cheapo, non-OEM forks.) If you want the best performing fork, that is probably the way to go. Any rockshox dealer should be able to get those parts.

I have a Lyrik which I really like, but it takes some service to keep it running nice. Basically just changing the oil bath, which is a really simple job.

The 2010 Lyric is available in 160 and 170mm travel versions.

 

[the.vault]

The 2010 Lyric is available in 160 and 170mm travel versions.

I forgot about that part. I am pretty sure, sure enough for this conversation, (double check what I am saying) that if you put the dampers from the 170mm forks into a 160mm you won't have problems.

I don't know how the U-turn which is only 160m will work with a 170mm travel fork. I expect it will limit the travel, not sure how.

 

[Hardtails Are Better]

There's no reason you can't run the damper from a 170mm fork in a 160mm one. In the Lyric, the spring side bits are what control the length/ amount of travel. I'm not sure if the old chassis has long enough stanchions to play nice with a 170mm travel spring setup. It's possible, for sure, but I haven't looked. Same for the old damper. Since there's no damper shaft connecting the crown to the lowers, it might work, but it also might hydrolock deep in its travel, or be effectively underfilled and be undamped for the first bit of its travel. Again, I haven't tried, I don't know.

 

[merijn101]

He guys, both are 160mm forks..... Just found a can of fork oil from a plan to refresh some of my xc forks back in 2006. (could not get the eta screwed from to topcap ). What would the oil type be for the Lyrik?

 

[merijn101]

OK, just ran to the bike shed. Motorex race oil 7,5W would that do the trick? And what is that Isopropinol Alcohol (??) that they speak of in the RS vids? Any euro translation for that?

 

[eatdrinkride]

And what is that Isopropinol Alcohol

You might see it in a drugstore labeled as "Rubbing Alcohol"...? There is 6%IPA, 70%, 90%, etc. Look for the highest percentage of pure IPA.

As far as oil goes RS oil is re-branded Torco RFF and the listed weights differ. 15W RS is 20W Torco RFF.

You can find the proper damper oil weight (in RS terms) on their website and THIS chart can help you decide what oil would be most compatible. You need to use an oil that is as close to the same viscosity as the RS recommended oil or you will change the damping characteristics of the fork.

I just use the Torco but I will be mixing two weights of Red Line on my next rebuild.