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Superlight R XC complete

1405 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Wheeldog, Jul 3, 2006

Wheeldog

Discussion Starter · Jun 19, 2006

I'm looking to put a Superlight and parts kit on order soon and I have a few last-minute questions and meanderings.

This will be my first FS bike and I'm looking for something that I can use for XC races (8-10 per season) and maybe some 24-hr stuff, but that will also be a 'fun' bike for trail riding on technical New England singletrack. I'm about 160 lb and not very aggressive with drops so I'm thinking the frame should be fine for me.

Price is also a big factor - looking to keep it under $2k. The R XC complete is $1984 but I can get a small discount through my shop / race team so it makes for a pretty good deal. For the price I get hydraulic discs (Juicy 5), an o/b bb crankset (LX) and XT/LX/LX rd, fd, and shifters. The shock is a Swinger 3-way and the fork an F100R. It all seems pretty easy to live with, though I expect I may get upgraditis with the fork and some other parts. (Also don't know much about the wheelset build). I'm thinking that a L frame with this kit will weigh in the low 28-lb range with pedals.

I guess my biggest concern is that the Superlight is going to be a pedal-clacker because of the low bb. Wondering if this is offset a little by the fact that the suspension is semi-active.

Anyway, your comments on the choice of bike or on the kit are appreciated.

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QCRage

· #2 · Jun 20, 2006

Well.... I love my Supe. No matter what I add to the stable, I always seem to fall back to it. I run an 80mm Skareb for XC racing (but I like a twitchy ride for the trails here), and swap in a 100mm fork for a more docile and downhill-friendly ride. The components you listed sound solid to me, I have two sets of Juicy 5's and love'em. Not familiar with low BB issues on Superlights, more common on Blur's. My SL comes in about 26.5lb with full XT and BB7's.

Plus, I love how other guys (eg. Fisher) are coming out with single pivot bikes and calling them "new tech". I've had Blur-lust for a while, but the SL is just such a damn reliable ride I can't seem to come up with a reason to change. This coming from a guy who buys a new ride at the drop of a hat. I love my Supe...

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Rex_Skidmore

· #3 · Jun 20, 2006

Bought a Tazmon.

Bought a SL.

Bought a Blur.

Sold the Blur. Kept the other two.

My gut tells me that you like new / not used. To hit your target $$, I would buy used through the conxns you have at the shop, or online here in the classified sections. There's tons of great deals on "previously owned" bikes. Better gear at better prices.

If you must have new, then go for it. I've done both.

With a 44T, I don't bottom out very often at all.

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mtnbikej

· #4 · Jun 20, 2006

Wheeldog said:
I'm looking to put a Superlight and parts kit on order soon and I have a few last-minute questions and meanderings.

This will be my first FS bike and I'm looking for something that I can use for XC races (8-10 per season) and maybe some 24-hr stuff, but that will also be a 'fun' bike for trail riding on technical New England singletrack. I'm about 160 lb and not very aggressive with drops so I'm thinking the frame should be fine for me.

Price is also a big factor - looking to keep it under $2k. The R XC complete is $1984 but I can get a small discount through my shop / race team so it makes for a pretty good deal. For the price I get hydraulic discs (Juicy 5), an o/b bb crankset (LX) and XT/LX/LX rd, fd, and shifters. The shock is a Swinger 3-way and the fork an F100R. It all seems pretty easy to live with, though I expect I may get upgraditis with the fork and some other parts. (Also don't know much about the wheelset build). I'm thinking that a L frame with this kit will weigh in the low 28-lb range with pedals.

I guess my biggest concern is that the Superlight is going to be a pedal-clacker because of the low bb. Wondering if this is offset a little by the fact that the suspension is semi-active.

Anyway, your comments on the choice of bike or on the kit are appreciated.

That is a pretty solid build. The only thing that is not great is the wheelset. The cranks are not the lightest, but they will not dissapoint.

According to the Bike Builder the bike should come in around 26.5 lbs.......not bad for a bike that costs less than 2k.

mtnbikej

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adampoland

· #5 · Jun 20, 2006

I have been a lucky pnwer of a Superlight with X9 kit for about 6 weeks. The bike gets ridden every day and already was twice in teh mountains. Based on that I can say a couple of words about the design and the components.
I have an L size frame and I am not as stretched as on my hardtail - Storck Bandit. Thus it is more comfortable, but its performance on climbs may suffer a little bit. But just a little bit...
The suspension works fine at taking medium hits. However, on very technical climbs in te granny ring I can definately feel it is not as active as I wished. there is not a slightest hint of bob, but the rear wheel tends to spit traction form time to time.
The bike is very stable at speed. It corners beatifully. However, there has been soem play in the suspension. The swingarm moves sidewards a little bit. I had the bolts tightened twice on it already. From what I heard it is nothing ot be very worried about.
And now finally, to answer your question... imho the bottom bracket is too low. It makes the bike very stable, but I still have not yet become familiar with the fact that I have to be very cautious not to hit the ground with the pedals. The bottom bracket is pretty low. This is a fact.
All the best with your purchase.

Best

Adam

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Rex_Skidmore

· #6 · Jun 20, 2006

adampoland : If the bolts on the swingarm have been tightened twice, will they require a third tightening? Here's the real question : Did the mechanic use Loctite or any other method of ensuring that they don't become loose again? I would verify that with the guy by asking him to describe the method used, before volunteering the info that would lead him to automatically reply "Yeah, I did that".

~ Rex

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QCRage

· #7 · Jun 21, 2006

adampoland said:
The bottom bracket is pretty low. This is a fact.

Hmmm.... it depends on what your definition of "is" is

(or how low is low).

I have never noticed my Supe having less clearance than my other XC bikes, so thought I'd see how they compare: My SL BB measures 12 1/4" when I'm in the saddle, the same as my Jamis Dragon (steel XC HT). I'm 155lb, have 115psi in the shock (Float RL) and 105psi in an 80mm travel Skareb. The Dragon has an 80mm Skareb as well, same pressure. My s.i.r. Niner (29er HT) measures 12" with an 80mm Reba at 105psi.

Granted that BB height is not as high as my Stinky at 12 3/4" when I'm seated, but then again the Stink isn't really an XC bike. I suppose it depends on the terrain you're riding. Obviously the BB will get lower as the shock is compressed further, but I'd have to say the SL BB is typical of XC geometry, can't say I'd like it much higher.

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Bike Nazi

· #8 · Jun 21, 2006

It's a pedal clacker, even compared to my

Wheeldog said:
I'm looking to put a Superlight and parts kit on order soon and I have a few last-minute questions and meanderings.

This will be my first FS bike and I'm looking for something that I can use for XC races (8-10 per season) and maybe some 24-hr stuff, but that will also be a 'fun' bike for trail riding on technical New England singletrack. I'm about 160 lb and not very aggressive with drops so I'm thinking the frame should be fine for me.

Price is also a big factor - looking to keep it under $2k. The R XC complete is $1984 but I can get a small discount through my shop / race team so it makes for a pretty good deal. For the price I get hydraulic discs (Juicy 5), an o/b bb crankset (LX) and XT/LX/LX rd, fd, and shifters. The shock is a Swinger 3-way and the fork an F100R. It all seems pretty easy to live with, though I expect I may get upgraditis with the fork and some other parts. (Also don't know much about the wheelset build). I'm thinking that a L frame with this kit will weigh in the low 28-lb range with pedals.

I guess my biggest concern is that the Superlight is going to be a pedal-clacker because of the low bb. Wondering if this is offset a little by the fact that the suspension is semi-active.

Anyway, your comments on the choice of bike or on the kit are appreciated.

Litespeed Pisgah,
But you get used to the low bottom brkt and will finesse over the rocks and high spots in the trail in no time.
And the pay off for a low bottom brkt, is low center of gravity and railing good times on the downhills.

The SL climbs great for such a capable dualie.
I've got an RLT80 and an RP3, with mostly old XTR (V-brakes) it feels only a few pounds heavier than my 23lb hardtail, which hardley ever gets ridden anymore.

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Wheeldog

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 22, 2006

Thanks for the comments. :thumbsup:

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mtbike_AK

· #10 · Jun 30, 2006

Which rear shock is the best ride on the SL? What are you guys running on the front? Who has the best deals on the net for these things?

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Wheeldog

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 30, 2006

mtbike_AK said:
Which rear shock is the best ride on the SL? What are you guys running on the front? Who has the best deals on the net for these things?

Can't speak for which rear shock is best, but just to re-rail my thread

: I ended up ordering a 'D XC' Complete from Cambria after my R XC deal fell through. I'm getting it with the RP3 rear shock. It's going to be a heavy and fairly low-end build, but for about $1600 shipped I think it's a really good deal (especially with the RP3). I think it will probably weigh about 30 lb (size L frame), and I'll probably swap out the fork and wheels next season, but for now this fits the bill.

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Bike Nazi

· #12 · Jul 2, 2006

RP3 seems to work real good

mtbike_AK said:
Which rear shock is the best ride on the SL? What are you guys running on the front? Who has the best deals on the net for these things?

not to sloppy on the climbs and real good on the fast rough downhills.

I've got a RLT80 on the frt, good climbing, (a little mushy when standing and hammering), but descending makes up for any up hill short comings, after 3 years and no maint. no issues.

If I had to buy a new front fork I'd get a RLT100, that way, if I didn't like the extra frt end heigth I could always get it reduced to 80mm.

If I had to get a new rear shock for the old SL, I'd get another RP3.

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EBG 18T

· #13 · Jul 2, 2006

i am running a Pushed Fox Float in the rear (custom valved) and a 06 RS Reba Team in the front. This combination is great. Much better than the OEM Fox i had in the rear and the Reba is a ton better than the RS Sid 100 i ran prior. If you end up getting a Fox fork, get the shock and fork revalved by Push for your weight and riding style. It made a huge difference on my SL.

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Wheeldog

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 3, 2006

EBG 18T said:
i am running a Pushed Fox Float in the rear (custom valved) and a 06 RS Reba Team in the front. This combination is great. Much better than the OEM Fox i had in the rear and the Reba is a ton better than the RS Sid 100 i ran prior. If you end up getting a Fox fork, get the shock and fork revalved by Push for your weight and riding style. It made a huge difference on my SL.

Yeah, full-suspension and dialing the rear shock is going to be a whole new deal for me. I've used the RP3 on demo bikes I've ridden and I liked it but we'll see. I've also got an 05 Reba Race w/U-turn on my hardtail and I like it a lot. I may look for a leftover without U-turn for the Superlight to save a little weight, or go with the F100RLT.

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