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Am looking into buying either the Pro or Expert wheels and can't really decide. I don't really care too much about the 125 grams weight saving of the Pro model, but I do care about the hub quality and found out (directly from Sun Ringle) that the Pro has 24 POE, whereas the cheaper Expert has 30 POE....go figure:confused:

Does anybody know if there is a difference in quality of the rear hubs between the 2 models?

What else...does the direct pull spoke design of the Pro have any real world advantages over the J-bend spoke design on the Experts (durability, stiffness)?
 

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Former Bike Wrench
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J-Bend spokes are more readily available from an LBS if you bend or break a spoke. Strait pull spokes eliminate the common area spokes break from stress, the elbow.

The steel freehub body on the Expert allows you to run any cassette you want. The alloy freehub body on the Pro's require you to use expensive high end cassettes with alloy carriers (this is the main area lightweight hubs shave weight).

I went with the Experts as I like standard parts (j-bend spokes) and don't like spending for premium cassettes.
 

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^^^ Exactly what he said. I don't regret buying the pros but if I were buying again I'd go with the experts. In 6 months of abuse I haven't had any problems other than a missing spoke. The hub is marred a little but no problem getting the cassette off.
 

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namagomi
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J-Bend spokes are more readily available from an LBS if you bend or break a spoke. Strait pull spokes eliminate the common area spokes break from stress, the elbow.

The steel freehub body on the Expert allows you to run any cassette you want. The alloy freehub body on the Pro's require you to use expensive high end cassettes with alloy carriers (this is the main area lightweight hubs shave weight).

I went with the Experts as I like standard parts (j-bend spokes) and don't like spending for premium cassettes.
Mtnbiker72, do you have any idea who manufactures the pro or expert hubs and if there is documentation for service?

It seems like they're Stans 3.30 hub.ZTR Hub Info
www.notubes.com/literature/Hub-ServiceManual-2011.pdf
However none of those are straight pull. :skep:

Anyways, I went with the pro to save weight, guess i'm forking out for an expensive alloy cassette? :D

UPSed, what model did you run for a cassette?

p.s. the straight pull can take a higher tension, so you'll get a bit more strength.
 

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Mtnbiker72, do you have any idea who manufactures the pro or expert hubs and if there is documentation for service?

It seems like they're Stans 3.30 hub.ZTR Hub Info
www.notubes.com/literature/Hub-ServiceManual-2011.pdf
However none of those are straight pull. :skep:

Anyways, I went with the pro to save weight, guess i'm forking out for an expensive alloy cassette? :D

UPSed, what model did you run for a cassette?

p.s. the straight pull can take a higher tension, so you'll get a bit more strength.
Both Sun Ringle and Stans hubs are made by the same Taiwan manufacturer.

ps- higher spoke tension does not equal strength or stiffness
 

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namagomi
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Both Sun Ringle and Stans hubs are made by the same Taiwan manufacturer.

ps- higher spoke tension does not equal strength or stiffness
Ah, thanks...since sun ringle has about zero in the way of manuals that i can find i'm guess i'll look at stan's.

About the spokes, I was under the impression the tighter the wheel spokes can be done up the less likely to the wheel is to deform. For instance a wheel at 85kgf and a wheel at 130kgf all else equal i'd think the latter would resist bending(provided that is within the tolerances of the rim)... I do agree that failure at jbend seems common though, either spoke type my primary concern here was shaving weight.
 

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Ah, thanks...since sun ringle has about zero in the way of manuals that i can find i'm guess i'll look at stan's.

About the spokes, I was under the impression the tighter the wheel spokes can be done up the less likely to the wheel is to deform. For instance a wheel at 85kgf and a wheel at 130kgf all else equal i'd think the latter would resist bending(provided that is within the tolerances of the rim)... I do agree that failure at jbend seems common though, either spoke type my primary concern here was shaving weight.
There are several factors that influence wheel strength. There are some great articles written that explain all the variables that go into a good wheel build including tension, spoke type, spoke count, lacing pattern, etc. if your interested.
http://www.icelord.net/bike/thebicyclewheel.pdf

Concerning the Sun Ringle wheels, they use the same rim on both the Expert and Pro so there really isn't any appreciable difference in tension on the models. My Experts have DB14 spokes and brass nipples. The Pro uses DB14 strait pull spokes and alloy nipples which saves a minor amount of weight (most of the weight difference is the hubs). So the tension is pretty much going to be the same.
 

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I just got a set of the Experts, I hope they are loud...lol 28mm wide is nice... I have flow laced to hope evo which I love hopefully these are on the same level.
Not as loud as Hope...but they are a pretty audible depending on what you use to lubricate the pawls with.
 

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namagomi
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There are several factors that influence wheel strength. There are some great articles written that explain all the variables that go into a good wheel build including tension, spoke type, spoke count, lacing pattern, etc. if your interested.
http://www.icelord.net/bike/thebicyclewheel.pdf

Concerning the Sun Ringle wheels, they use the same rim on both the Expert and Pro so there really isn't any appreciable difference in tension on the models. My Experts have DB14 spokes and brass nipples. The Pro uses DB14 strait pull spokes and alloy nipples which saves a minor amount of weight (most of the weight difference is the hubs). So the tension is pretty much going to be the same.
Interesting, thanks for the link... That those rims are the same i didn't know, but the details online that i found aren't so great. I am trying to save some weight, so it has to come from somewhere which apparently is the hub(though the rim would be ideal). They're a lot lighter better than my AM style wheels - can tell that just by hand - and both pro and expert came recommended.

Are you running a tubeless setup on yours?
 

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I just got a set of the Experts, I hope they are loud...lol 28mm wide is nice... I have flow laced to hope evo which I love hopefully these are on the same level.
Excellent choice!!!
Not as loud as Hope...but they are a pretty audible depending on what you use to lubricate the pawls with.
Hmmmm, I would say my brand new Experts are on par with my Hopes, dare to say even a smidge louder, or maybe my Hopes got quieter over this past season? :D

Either way, I was worried the Charger Experts would be quiet, definitely not the case. Still have to put them on a bike though. :nonod:
 

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Yes, just don't install the tubeless valve stems. You will still get the benefit of a larger volume tire and reduced pinch flats due to the BST rim bead.
Thanks very much mtnbiker72. I just purchased a 29er set from CRC, and realized they could be run tubeless, but it said nothing about tubed. I was pretty sure it was ok, but better to check.
 

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Thumbs down for the Pro's

This may be a one off deal. I bought these wheels 5 mos ago for my second bike. Maybe they were built on friday at 4:30pm but nonetheless I have had nothing but problems with them. I'm not slamming Sun-Ringle because I have been happy with their products in the past but here are my issues I've had so far.

I run the front wheel in the 20mm config and after about 10 miles the front wheel would start to loosen. At first I thought it was the new 2011 RS maxle light that was the culprit so I switched wheels and the problem went away. I put the Sun-Ringle wheel on my Tallboy which had a 2010 maxle and after 10 miles it would loosen on that fork also. Not a big but still a pain in the arse to have to stop and tighten your fork all the time. I have since put the wheels on my Niner MCR with a 15mm setup. The 15mm bushing do seem fit a little better so we see if that helps.

Now the rear wheel. I have broken 3 spokes and had 2 nipples back out. I didn't even know a nipple could do that! Luckily the rim tape stop them from falling out and losing them. So in 5mos of ownership I've have had to dismount the tire 5 times and either fix or replace a spoke. It looks like they do not use spoke prep, at least not on my wheels.

I will say this, the wheels seem to take a beating and stay true as long as the spokes stay intact. The hub engagement is much better than the Crossmax but the Crossmax is pretty much bombproof for my style of riding. I don't do any jumping but I do ride hard and have a lot of log overs and roots to contend with in South Florida.

Like I said I won't slam them and not recommend their products , I just think I got a bad set. It happens. Just my .02
 

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namagomi
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It's too bad about the spoke prep, but you can oil the nipple before adjusting it.

Checking the wheel a few rides post spoke adjustment is a good idea and something unavoidable. Broken spokes mean they're not tensioned properly or you're hitting things too aggressively for the wheels...

About the bushing is it the adapter plug that doesn't fit snugly in the hub?
 

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Sun charger pro

Just got a set of these wheels last week. They set up tubeless super easy with tioga psycho genius tires. I put a xg 1080 cassette on there at the same time. I got to ride a little yesterday between snow storms and they are awesome so far. They accelerate fast and feel very light and nimble.
 

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