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You guys need to stop hyping going to 150mm, or I'll end up giving in, spending money I shouldn't and likely join in on the praises and in the process, convince some other poor person to spend their hard earned $$. ;)
The economy would collapse if us mountain bikers didn't buy stuff we don't need!
 

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The economy would collapse if us mountain bikers didn't buy stuff we don't need!
Found a new 2021 Pike Ultimate 150mm (42mm offset) for $800 ($100 off) from a local shop. Very tempted.......would be extra tempted if it was the silver version. How much can I get for my stock 34 Rhythm? ;)
 

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Agree with Dogmeat26, if it is just to bump the travel to 150mm I would keep the 34 and buy a new airshaft, it will be the opportunity to put the proper amount of grease in the air chambers as well (ie not too much like sometimes from the factory) and to see if you are happy with a higher fork without breaking the bank.
I have a Pike ultimate on mine, but only because I already had this fork from a previous bike and I liked the silver. Honestly the difference in functionning is not massive, doesn't worth the $800 (or minus what you will get from the 34) in my opinion if we only talk about the performance aspect for an average/good rider. I was especially surprised by the rigidity of the 34 rhythm which is far to be bad like I have sometimes read on the internet, at least for my weight 160lbs.
I have also tried both 140mm and 150mm and I find ou that the negative impact on climbing is higher than the positive for descending.
 

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Agree with Dogmeat26, if it is just to bump the travel to 150mm I would keep the 34 and buy a new airshaft, it will be the opportunity to put the proper amount of grease in the air chambers as well (ie not too much like sometimes from the factory) and to see if you are happy with a higher fork without breaking the bank.
I have a Pike ultimate on mine, but only because I already had this fork from a previous bike and I liked the silver. Honestly the difference in functionning is not massive, doesn't worth the $800 (or minus what you will get from the 34) in my opinion if we only talk about the performance aspect for an average/good rider. I was especially surprised by the rigidity of the 34 rhythm which is far to be bad like I have sometimes read on the internet, at least for my weight 160lbs.
I have also tried both 140mm and 150mm and I find ou that the negative impact on climbing is higher than the positive for descending.
Yeah I need to remind myself I want to keep this bike poppy, which is why I bought it, I have a longer travel more Enduro focused bike. The Rhythm 34 is actually quite good. Although it seems to lack some support I'd like when riding harder. In order to keep myself from bottoming it all that often, I have the pressure at 115psi and 3 tokens currently (200lb rider) which takes away from the sensitivity a bit. The Fox 36 on my Rip 9 gives noticeable better traction and support (It is 160mm though). So, I'm really just nit picking here though, overall it does a good job. Not sure if another fork with more tunability would help me much in this regard, which is the primary reason I was thinking about trying out a different fork.
 

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I have a Luftkappe in my 36 ebike which has also a small air chamber like the 34 and it made a very noticeable difference support wise. I don’t think they make it for the rhythm but maybe something like a Runt would do the trick in the 34 rhythm, it is already more expensive that an original fox air shaft though…
 

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I have looked at trying the runt out, very curious how they would make the fork feel. But at $200, that would make it maybe $150 off the cost of swapping over to the Pike Ultimate (after selling the Rhythm). Which would be the better option at that point....not sure. Also, I do not consider a fork upgrade (runt or new fork) completely lost $$, I imagine it would assist a bit when it came time to resell the bike.
 

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Anyone know another option for replacement bearings as Fanatik doesn't ship outside the US.

Also, which (reasonable price) Bearing extractor/Installer is needed?
 

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Has anyone gone with a longer dropper on their S4 stumpy? I am looking for another 10-20mm over the stock 170mm if I can get away with it. The stock xfusion has a full length of about 480mm, which is the same as the OneUp 180mm, so that should be fine. It appears I can push it down 35-40mm or so before the dropper runs into resistance.

I see the 210mm Oneup is 520mm full length if shimmed to 190mm, that appears to be cutting it super close although it could maybe work. The Bike Yoke Revive 185mm has a overall length of 485mm, so it should work although almost $200 more than the oneUp seems like a lot. I am guessing that the 180mm OneUp is my safest bet?
 

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Anyone running 27.5 2.8 in the bike parks? I have a set of sturdy Nobl/onyx wheels that I’d like to use for the occasional dh days.


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Has anyone gone with a longer dropper on their S4 stumpy? I am looking for another 10-20mm over the stock 170mm if I can get away with it. The stock xfusion has a full length of about 480mm, which is the same as the OneUp 180mm, so that should be fine. It appears I can push it down 35-40mm or so before the dropper runs into resistance.

I see the 210mm Oneup is 520mm full length if shimmed to 190mm, that appears to be cutting it super close although it could maybe work. The Bike Yoke Revive 185mm has a overall length of 485mm, so it should work although almost $200 more than the oneUp seems like a lot. I am guessing that the 180mm OneUp is my safest bet?
210mm is fine from the collar of the post you have about 1/4 inch from the seat tube at full insertion, if your 6 feet or taller you will probably need about 3 inches from the collar above the seat tube showing to get a good saddle height. I have the s4 frame with 210mm one up post, and just above 6 feet and wish I had even more drop.
 

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Anyone running 27.5 2.8 in the bike parks? I have a set of sturdy Nobl/onyx wheels that I’d like to use for the occasional dh days.


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Not sure about clearance, but I would think the bb would be very low even in the high setting. Also plus tires would be my last choice for park riding, as you have to run higher pressures to avoid squirm in berms but then have overly bouncy balloon tires in rough terrain (yes I've tried it).

Personally would just pick up a set of 29er DH tires if planning on riding park
 

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For those that might want to know, AXS is running flawlessly on my Carbon Comp with Shimano Cassette and chain. Cable housing is still in the frame because I've always been afraid of commitment. . That and if the install didn't go well I didn't want to wrangle the housing back in.

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For those that might want to know, AXS is running flawlessly on my Carbon Comp with Shimano Cassette and chain. Cable housing is still in the frame because I've always been afraid of commitment. . That and if the install didn't go well I didn't want to wrangle the housing back in.

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hahhahahaha...I do the same thing with AXS sometimes if I feel like I may change it back quick or sell the bike. The Shimano cassette/SRAM combo is the best for the crispy shifting!
 
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