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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,

We've created a YouTube channel for Hayes Disc Brakes and loaded up an instructional video on the Stroker bleeding procedure. The URL is http://www.youtube.com//HayesDiscBrakes

If you have any questions about the procedure, call or email the tech guys (see my signature below), and they'll be happy to help.

Ride safe,
Denny
 

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noMAD man
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Dang...I've owned Hayes brakes since about '97...got 4 sets of Mags on bikes right now...and I still learned a couple of things about bleeding them. That feeler guage setup was pretty neat. I also like that screw-in master cylinder bleed screw on the Strokers rather than my push-in style on my Mags. On the pushing in of the pistons before the bleed, I just take set of new, fat pads used just for that purpose and stuff a fat brake puck in there in to keep the pistons fully seated. Otherwise they always seem to creep out a bit for me. I must have missed it in the instructions all these years on my Mags, but I never caught the part about "snapping" the lever to dislodged air. I've had good luck doing a bleed without it, but that sounds like a good way to get any air out at the MC. I also never realized you could put a compression fitting on the caliper bleed hose to secure it. I've experienced a hose "pop off" once in a great while. Well...they say if you don't learn something new every now and then, you're not paying attention.

I'm glad to hear that the Stroker design uses the same bleed process as my Mags, as I'm looking to try out the 4-piston Ace model when it comes out soon. Thanks for that link, Denny.
 

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ride hard take risks
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ffc3 said:
Was the bleed kit supposed to come with the Mag silver compression fitting bushing that you used to secure the hose to the caliper?
You need to buy the compression fitting separately. :thumbsup:

BTI part #:HY-8245
vendor part #:99-16601
package:10/pack
description:compression ferrule (sil alum)
model:HFX-Mag*


 

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ok is this right?

undo caliper from mount, caliper to be lower than lever. bleed nipple on caliper perpendicular to the ground (at highest point of caliper).

slip off cap, slip 6mm closed end wrench over bleed nipple, place hose from squeezy bottle (or syringe) onto bleed nipple. lock it in place to stop air ingress, use either compression fitting that Hayes don't supply or...

lever can be in normal riding position, but perhaps a good idea to have so that master cylinder is parallel to ground, i.e. bleed screw fitting at highest point and parallel to ground?????

Screw other bit of hose to a bottle, attach bottle to handlebars.

Does this catch bottle need to be higher or lower than the lever? How do you stop air rising out of it and back into the lever reservoir (master cylinder)? Should the bottle be air tight, have air holes, ???

Undo bleed fitting on caliper, squueze as per Hayes instructions, count of 5 etc. Move caliper about as you do so, move lever about also when you see uniterrupted stream from bleed. Also squeeze lever a couple of times.

When done.

Nip up bleed on caliper
Undo bleed fitting and refit bleed screw to lever master cylinder reservoir thingy.
push back in caliper pistons if they have snuck out using box end of a 10mm wrench.

refit pads

squeeze lever when brake in position if you don't have shims, nip up, then properly nip up...

job done?????

any thing else, sound right? what about that catch bottle? any tricks there?
 

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ride hard take risks
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9speed said:
ok is this right?

Screw other bit of hose to a bottle, attach bottle to handlebars.

Does this catch bottle need to be higher or lower than the lever? How do you stop air rising out of it and back into the lever reservoir (master cylinder)? Should the bottle be air tight, have air holes, ???
The hose will go up then curve around into the catch bottle. The brake system is sealed when you push fluid from the caliper up and out the drain hose is still sealed because it is full of fluid. (Burp the air out of the hose going to the caliper)

9speed said:
Nip up bleed on caliper
Undo bleed fitting and refit bleed screw to lever master cylinder reservoir thingy.
push back in caliper pistons if they have snuck out using box end of a 10mm wrench.

refit pads

squeeze lever when brake in position if you don't have shims, nip up, then properly nip up...

job done?????

any thing else, sound right? what about that catch bottle? any tricks there?
Personally I never take the pads out and use the Hayes transport shim between them to prevent the pistons from moving in. The transport shim is very close to perfect in some cases, your LBS should have one or two for you. :thumbsup:
 

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if by transport shim you mean the bit of plastic the brakes had between their teeth, i guess i already got em. you mean if i am careful, and lock that hose onto the caliper bleed nipple as snug as i can, i can keep the pads in with the plastic shim bit between its teeth?
 

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ride hard take risks
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9speed said:
if by transport shim you mean the bit of plastic the brakes had between their teeth, i guess i already got em. you mean if i am careful, and lock that hose onto the caliper bleed nipple as snug as i can, i can keep the pads in with the plastic shim bit between its teeth?
Your on a roll now lets hear about how cool you are bleeding your own brakes. :cornut:
 

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I have to say though, unless DOT4 is unusually bad at contaminating pads* I have never had an issue before with decontaminating a pad. For example, with my old Avid J3's, sometimes I would clean and lube the chain by spraying it heavily with a very low viscosity lube like WD40 or similar. It really blasts out the chain, and can save time between proper cleanings. I create a little rag shroud or curtain to stop it getting on the discs but sometimes I rush and must end up getting splatter on the rear disc because straight after it would have no bite at all. 5 minutes of repeated braking though, or a spray of alcohol on the discs then immediate braking before the alcohol evaporates would sort it though...

DOT4 is low viscosity, not sure if it is lower viscosity than WD40 though. DOT4 imust be low viscosity almost vapor like because the first set of Hope/Goodridge lines I cut to size soaked DOT 4 like a sponge during fitting. Capillary action and all that. It left an unsightly stain so I bought another set and made sure to make everything tight this time before filling!!!

...
 

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ride hard take risks
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9speed said:
I have to say though, unless DOT4 is unusually bad at contaminating pads* I have never had an issue before with decontaminating a pad. For example, with my old Avid J3's, sometimes I would clean and lube the chain by spraying it heavily with a very low viscosity lube like WD40 or similar. It really blasts out the chain, and can save time between proper cleanings. I create a little rag shroud or curtain to stop it getting on the discs but sometimes I rush and must end up getting splatter on the rear disc because straight after it would have no bite at all. 5 minutes of repeated braking though, or a spray of alcohol on the discs then immediate braking before the alcohol evaporates would sort it though...

DOT4 is low viscosity, not sure if it is lower viscosity than WD40 though. DOT4 imust be low viscosity almost vapor like because the first set of Hope/Goodridge lines I cut to size soaked DOT 4 like a sponge during fitting. Capillary action and all that. It left an unsightly stain so I bought another set and made sure to make everything tight this time before filling!!!

...
It's not worth starting a debate over, some people read too much and never have accidents, thats not me. :cornut:
 

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ride hard take risks
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9speed said:
There's something of a craftsman-like art to bleeding a brake aint there? And once you have got it, I guess then you got it.
Ya know it's like anything we learn to do when you first do it the going can be a bit rocky. Once you do it the 2nd through 5th time may be so smooth and you feel like the master. Then the 6th time it doesnt work and it's your friends bike of course and the mighty master is crushed. Best thing to do now is stay calm and learn a new technic so you can be the master of masters until the 2 techniques you now know dont work and now you need to learn another. Lessons never end their is always more to learn. :rockon:
 
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