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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently resealed my Fox X80 and put in Enduro Seals. The seals are fantastic, had very well written directions, and were easy to install.
The job went well with out any issues (at least directly related to the seals).
However, since the reseal, I'm having problems blowing through all of my travel. Small and med hits have the fork using 80% of it's travel and rough stuff all of it with an occasional bottom out. Plus it packs up under repeated heavy hits.

What I've tried so far is:

Adding more air: I'm ~145lbs and usually run 70psi. I bumped it up to 82. The ride was horrible with the fork still blowing through it's travel but now rebounding wildly. I tried cranking up the rebound damping, but the rebounding was too wild for it to make much of a difference.

Setting the Terralogic valve less sensitive: No change, as soon as it opens, I get the same reaction.

Adding more Float Fluid to the air chamber. I'm now using a ~12cc of oil instead of the recommended 5cc. This has helped quite a bit. I'm still blowing through the first 2" of travel but the forx slows and firms during that last 1" as more oil is pushed into the what's left of the air chamber.

As is, it's very ridable, but it's just not as linear as when I first got it.
Anyone have any ideas?

I must add that Chris from Enduro Seals has been helping me on this issue. He has been fantastic and has really taken an interest in the problem. Emails are answered in a VERY prompt manner and he was very helpful on the phone. Honestly, since the seals went in with out any issue and the fork holds oil (it was really leaking with the stock seals) I expected to get an answer that went as such, "Your seals are holding oil, right? Then you'll have to contact Fox to find out what's wrong, our product seems to be fine.)
In addition to a great product, the level of tech. support is something that all companys should aspire to.

The issue seems to have Chris and myself stumped. If someone could offer any further help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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(aka SS_MB-7)
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Mark M13 said:
I recently resealed my Fox X80 and put in Enduro Seals. The seals are fantastic, had very well written directions, and were easy to install.
The job went well with out any issues (at least directly related to the seals).
However, since the reseal, I'm having problems blowing through all of my travel. Small and med hits have the fork using 80% of it's travel and rough stuff all of it with an occasional bottom out. Plus it packs up under repeated heavy hits.
Hmm, that's not good. It is safe to say that the fork worked fine before the seals were changed?

I've got a F80X and F100X, both of which I gutted to replace the stock seals with Chris' Enduro seals. At the time, Chris didn't have the FX/Enduro instructions, so I wrote down everything I did, sent them to Chris and he made some mods to my instructions. Fortunately, both forks went back together without any issues.

Something is definitely wrong with your fork or cartridge. FWIW, I'm 140lbs and have my forks set at 52psi with the recommended oil levels and I rarely get full travel (only on really big hits/hucks) and the fork seems to sit high in it's travel. In looking at your current settings (much higher pressure for similar weight, much higher oil levels, etc.) that fork should be nearly locked-out, not wallowing mid-way through it's travel.

Is your TerraLogic working correctly? That is, with the bike stationary, push down on the fork. It should be really stiff (or locked). Now, tap the front wheel and quickly push back on the fork...it should now be open. I wondering if there is something wrong with your cartridge. Within the first 2 weeks of riding my F80X (prior to installing the Enduro seals), I had to send my fork back to have the TerraLogic cartridge replaced. When the cartridge wasn't working, I found my travel would wallow around the mid-point (similar to you??) and there was no difference in the TerraLogic settings (sensitive and non-sensitive) or, that the TerraLogic actually did anything.
 

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carpe mañana
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It sounds like the air is getting around the air piston, meaning that the air spring chamber isn't fully sealed. This is one of the reasons why adding more float fluid has helped. At least that's a guess. Try removing the left side assembly and cleaning everything with mineral spirits and reassembling. It is possible that you might need to replace the o-ring on the air shaft plunger.

_MK
 

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MK_ said:
It sounds like the air is getting around the air piston, meaning that the air spring chamber isn't fully sealed. This is one of the reasons why adding more float fluid has helped. At least that's a guess. Try removing the left side assembly and cleaning everything with mineral spirits and reassembling. It is possible that you might need to replace the o-ring on the air shaft plunger.

_MK
No, it's not losing air. He added more because he was blowing through the travel. The extra oil was a temporary suggestion to decrease the air chamber volume, making the air spring more progessive. I'm guessing it's a compression damping issue, as (if I understand correctly) the inertia valve is working. Mark, DGC is back and may want to jump in here. I'll let him know...
 

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I'll try to help

Mark M13 said:
I recently resealed my Fox X80 and put in Enduro Seals. The seals are fantastic, had very well written directions, and were easy to install.
The job went well with out any issues (at least directly related to the seals).
However, since the reseal, I'm having problems blowing through all of my travel. Small and med hits have the fork using 80% of it's travel and rough stuff all of it with an occasional bottom out. Plus it packs up under repeated heavy hits.

What I've tried so far is:

Adding more air: I'm ~145lbs and usually run 70psi. I bumped it up to 82. The ride was horrible with the fork still blowing through it's travel but now rebounding wildly. I tried cranking up the rebound damping, but the rebounding was too wild for it to make much of a difference.

Setting the Terralogic valve less sensitive: No change, as soon as it opens, I get the same reaction.

Adding more Float Fluid to the air chamber. I'm now using a ~12cc of oil instead of the recommended 5cc. This has helped quite a bit. I'm still blowing through the first 2" of travel but the forx slows and firms during that last 1" as more oil is pushed into the what's left of the air chamber.

As is, it's very ridable, but it's just not as linear as when I first got it.
Anyone have any ideas?

I must add that Chris from Enduro Seals has been helping me on this issue. He has been fantastic and has really taken an interest in the problem. Emails are answered in a VERY prompt manner and he was very helpful on the phone. Honestly, since the seals went in with out any issue and the fork holds oil (it was really leaking with the stock seals) I expected to get an answer that went as such, "Your seals are holding oil, right? Then you'll have to contact Fox to find out what's wrong, our product seems to be fine.)
In addition to a great product, the level of tech. support is something that all companys should aspire to.

The issue seems to have Chris and myself stumped. If someone could offer any further help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
It is always kind of a blind thing trying to problem shoot without the fork in my hands. But first off a few things: I would want to know exactly how much oil you drained out of the fork and how much you put back in, and being sure you measured correctly. I would also set the rebound at its slowest setting and pump or cycle the fork a bunch of times-a dozen or so, being sure all the oil has made it back into the damper. When enough oil is not inside the damper you will lose both rebound control, and the compression will feel soft. Check out these things first and lets see where your at then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys,

Thanks for posting your thoughts.

Mike, while my fork does seem to exhibit the same behaviors as yours did when the TL valve died. My valve is working. It's locked at rest, opens when I tap the front wheel and is sensitive to adjustments at the knob.

Chris, good to hear from you. Once again, thanks for your interest in the matter.

DGC, thanks for taking a shot at this.

DGC said:
It is always kind of a blind thing trying to problem shoot without the fork in my hands. But first off a few things: I would want to know exactly how much oil you drained out of the fork and how much you put back in, and being sure you measured correctly
I put in 155cc of Fox shock oil measured with a syringe.
I happened to still have the old oil in a drain bucket, it measureout at 122cc. Makes sence since my right seal was really leaking. (I also spilled a bit on the shop floor).

DGC said:
I would also set the rebound at its slowest setting and pump or cycle the fork a bunch of times-a dozen or so, being sure all the oil has made it back into the damper. When enough oil is not inside the damper you will lose both rebound control, and the compression will feel soft. Check out these things first and lets see where your at then.
I did cycle it as I was adding oil, but will check this out as soon as I get home from work this afternoon.

More then,

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm stuck at work late grrrrrrrr..... I will take off early tomorrow and try the fork after cycling it through again.

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
DGC said:
. I would also set the rebound at its slowest setting and pump or cycle the fork a bunch of times-a dozen or so, being sure all the oil has made it back into the damper. When enough oil is not inside the damper you will lose both rebound control, and the compression will feel soft. Check out these things first and lets see where your at then.
Hi DGC,

I tried cycling the fork and then road it for serveral hrs over varied terrain that included some slow and high speed technical. Still no change. If it wasn't for the extra oil at the end of the stroke, I'd probably be bottoming out.

Any hypothesis?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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well.......

Mark M13 said:
Hi DGC,

I tried cycling the fork and then road it for serveral hrs over varied terrain that included some slow and high speed technical. Still no change. If it wasn't for the extra oil at the end of the stroke, I'd probably be bottoming out.

Any hypothesis?

Thanks,
Mark
So you tried it at the slowest rebound setting? Do you get all the range of rebound clicks? If your not getting but a few clicks the rebound adjuster is not running its range. On the underside of the lock out lever is the 3 tiny 1.5mm allen heads, if they dont get turned back down to the correct position they can be up far enough to stop the rebound clickers travel as you move it more towards slower rebound, just a thought. Also, It is possible some dirt or debris got stuck in the sims/piston area. That can cause a very open non damped feel if jammed just right and it does happen once in awhile during an oil change. Only other thing I can think of is the damper not working correclty and it apparently happened during the rebuild process-since it sounds like it worked fine before you went inside, the debris idea or other may be the culprit.
Finally, I have delt with a few where the owner tried to get the 2mm allen off the top that holds the rebound adjuster in place, in trying they turned the rebound adjuster past the last click too hard and broke off the internal adjuster rod when they thought they were backing the allen outfrom under the rebound adjuster, oil usually will come up with this situation and make a mess under or around the rebound adjuster, a VERY LIGHT lifting motion on the adjuster would tell you if this is the case, the rebound adjuster and the rod will come out far too easily if it is broken. Tough to guess at one thing, but check this and anyone else in here having delt with this should ring in here too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
DGC said:
So you tried it at the slowest rebound setting? Do you get all the range of rebound clicks?
The fork rebounded very slowly with the damper at full in. I am getting all 14 clicks and the fork is responding at various rebound settings.

DGC said:
Also, It is possible some dirt or debris got stuck in the sims/piston area. That can cause a very open non damped feel if jammed just right and it does happen once in awhile during an oil change. Only other thing I can think of is the damper not working correclty and it apparently happened during the rebuild process-since it sounds like it worked fine before you went inside, the debris idea or other may be the culprit
I'll pull it out and give it a good check over.

DGC said:
Finally, I have delt with a few where the owner tried to get the 2mm allen off the top that holds the rebound adjuster in place, in trying they turned the rebound adjuster past the last click too hard and broke off the internal adjuster rod when they thought they were backing the allen outfrom under the rebound adjuster, oil usually will come up with this situation and make a mess under or around the rebound adjuster, a VERY LIGHT lifting motion on the adjuster would tell you if this is the case, the rebound adjuster and the rod will come out far too easily if it is broken. Tough to guess at one thing, but check this and anyone else in here having delt with this should ring in here too.
Hmmm... I understand what your talking about. But, there's no oil. Plus, I try never to force anything when dealing with suspension parts. Esp, the tiny bits.

I appreceiate your imput on the matter. I'll pull the damper assembly asnd see what's up.

Thanks,
Mark
 
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