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I love my Crests. Light weight and super easy to setup tubeless. What is your weight and what kind of terrain are you riding?
 

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SCR29er said:
Thanks for the info... Mostly XC. I weigh 160-165... Any significant difference between the crest and the arch?
The Arch wheels will be stiffer but at 165lbs and XC trails, you should have no problems with Crest. Get the ZTR hubs, great bang for the buck!
 

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Wait till you strip or wear down the inner hub gear, then you will get a bang for your buck. The ZTR's only have 3 points of load transfer = 1 demerit. The inner hub gear is pressed in and will wear with every revolution of the spring loaded pawls in freewheel until engagement becomes poor = 1 demerit. When they wear out, you will send them in for repair or throw them away = 1 demerit.
The DT Swiss design either 18 or 36 actually have either 18 or 36 teeth engaged during load transfer = 1 chili. When they wear out, you simply swap in new ones = 1 chili. No tools required = 1 chili.

You decide, do you want the chili or the cheese.
 

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I weigh about as much as the OP and use this wheelset on the same terrain for about 6 months now. I'm very happy with them so far. They are light, look good, stiff, easy tubeless set-up, and I like the sound of the freehub if that means anything to you. Highly recommend!
 

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NoTubes.com
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getjohn said:
Wait till you strip or wear down the inner hub gear, then you will get a bang for your buck. The ZTR's only have 3 points of load transfer = 1 demerit. The inner hub gear is pressed in and will wear with every revolution of the spring loaded pawls in freewheel until engagement becomes poor = 1 demerit. When they wear out, you will send them in for repair or throw them away = 1 demerit.
The DT Swiss design either 18 or 36 actually have either 18 or 36 teeth engaged during load transfer = 1 chili. When they wear out, you simply swap in new ones = 1 chili. No tools required = 1 chili.

You decide, do you want the chili or the cheese.
True, the easily replaceable pawls and one easily replaceable freehub should you ever need it (requires a couple allen wrenches). The inner hub gear (or ratchet ring as we call it) is not pressed in but threaded. The tools to change it our are available for an LBS to purchase or we can do the service for you, takes about 3 minutes start to finish. Replacement rings are rather inexpensive as is the tool though I apologize, I don't have the numbers in front of me. The stock ring is hardened steel, good for 10s of thousands of freewheeling.

We offer DT as an option on our builds because it has several good things going for it, no doubt.
 

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getjohn said:
Wait till you strip or wear down the inner hub gear, then you will get a bang for your buck. The ZTR's only have 3 points of load transfer = 1 demerit. The inner hub gear is pressed in and will wear with every revolution of the spring loaded pawls in freewheel until engagement becomes poor = 1 demerit. When they wear out, you will send them in for repair or throw them away = 1 demerit.
The DT Swiss design either 18 or 36 actually have either 18 or 36 teeth engaged during load transfer = 1 chili. When they wear out, you simply swap in new ones = 1 chili. No tools required = 1 chili.

You decide, do you want the chili or the cheese.
Actually the ZTR hubs have three pawls with 2 points of engagement each, for a total of 6. Arguably, the tolerance of the machining, the design, and the quality of the materials make more of an impact of durability than poe. I've owned 3 sets of ZTR hubs (with minimal-to-no maintenance), and haven't killed one yet. I am about to purchase a fourth.

Have you had any problems with yours?
 

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NedwannaB
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Awwww man

LandSpeed said:
Don't forget about that thread that was locked the other day with the guy complaining about his tacoed crest. Turned into a shitstorm, as usual, whenever someone complains about stans.
You just had to go there didn't you. :nono:
 

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ZTR Hub Correction

Mike B, I stand corrected on the 3 vs 6 actual pawl engagement. Thanks for the thoughtful reply to my harsh critique. Can you please comment further then on the strength of the 6 pawl engagement of the ZTR vs the DT 18 or 36 (besides price), especially when the option would be for the Single Speed version of each, where potential extremes will be placed on one gear. Examples may be inner hub strength, outer aluminum hub reliability, steel hub availability?::skep:
 

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Not according to No Tubes

bholwell said:
Actually the ZTR hubs have three pawls with 2 points of engagement each, for a total of 6. Arguably, the tolerance of the machining, the design, and the quality of the materials make more of an impact of durability than poe. I've owned 3 sets of ZTR hubs (with minimal-to-no maintenance), and haven't killed one yet. I am about to purchase a fourth.

Have you had any problems with yours?
These hubs DO NOT have 6 points of engagement. They have 3 pawls of single engagement only. The newer hub shells (mid 2009) have 30 points of engagement and the older ZTR's had 24. Both only have 3 single pawls engaged at any one time, per NoTubes Tech.:prft:
 

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getjohn said:
These hubs DO NOT have 6 points of engagement. They have 3 pawls of single engagement only. The newer hub shells (mid 2009) have 30 points of engagement and the older ZTR's had 24. Both only have 3 single pawls engaged at any one time, per NoTubes Tech.:prft:
The ZTRs are a simple, lightweight and effective design. I've been running 2 sets for the past year and a half w/o any trouble at all. Very easy to service and maintain. No doubt the DTs are great hubs but also very expensive. The ZTRs have worked fine for me - 190lbs and lots of steep techy climbing, they seem plenty strong, and 30 POE is more than adequate.
 
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