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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read somewhere that the worst thing can happen to an steel frame is the corrosion from the inside... :confused:

How do you guys deal with it? Does it needs some anti-corrosion blown inside the tubings like the cars undercoat or something?

How is it possible or does it really matter? Or just forget about it and ride?

Need others opinion here...Thanks...
 

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Bearlike
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Bike Cancer

I've seen steel road bikes with pretty bad cancer aka rust from the inside and the out. It is more of a problem if you live in wet/rainy areas. I ride all steel and use JP Weigle's Frame Saver. You spray it into the frame thru the weld vent holes, let sit for 5 mins, then turn the frame over and repeat. Weigle's stuff leaves a waxy coating that soaks the pores in the steel. Or if you can't find that, use Boeshield T-9. I just used that on my On-One 456, works just fine.

Happy Trails

Bullit_cn said:
I read somewhere that the worst thing can happen to an steel frame is the corrosion from the inside... :confused:

How do you guys deal with it? Does it needs some anti-corrosion blown inside the tubings like the cars undercoat or something?

How is it possible or does it really matter? Or just forget about it and ride?

Need others opinion here...Thanks...
 

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Rollin' a fatty
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5,863 Posts
After a very wet and muddy summer and fall I didn't had any of the products mentioned above available. I used thick motor oil instead until I can get my hands on some Frame Saver or Boeshield.
 

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Bullit_cn said:
I read somewhere that the worst thing can happen to an steel frame is the corrosion from the inside... :confused:

How do you guys deal with it? Does it needs some anti-corrosion blown inside the tubings like the cars undercoat or something?

How is it possible or does it really matter? Or just forget about it and ride?

Need others opinion here...Thanks...
We have "White Knight Fish Oil" in a spray can, smells for about 1 hour, then fully coated.

Aussie..............
 

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jmw said:
what about WD-40 sprayed inside?
Nver tried it -- the Wiegle stuff is made specifically for this application -- WD40 is awfully thin and seems to dry/evaporate pretty quick. It's a decent rust inhibitor, but I'd think it would be necessary to re-apply pretty often. Smells kinda nice tho.
 

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All 26.5" all the time!
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Boiled linseed oil, found in nearly every hardware and paint store, works well as a steel tube preservative. It's been used in steel tubed aircraft frames since steel tubed aircraft have existed.
 

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Hoopy Frood
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Read the spew

I believe you just got a 1x1 and are probably asking about that bike. Here's Surly's take on the subject:

http://www.surlybikes.com/spew9.html

I have three steel bikes and use Boeshield on all of them. No rust problems so far.

It also helps to keep the seatpost hole greased well. That keeps water from getting into the frame. After wet or rainy rides, I usually pull the seatpost out and turn the bike upside down to dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
khill said:
I believe you just got a 1x1 and are probably asking about that bike. Here's Surly's take on the subject:

http://www.surlybikes.com/spew9.html

I have three steel bikes and use Boeshield on all of them. No rust problems so far.

It also helps to keep the seatpost hole greased well. That keeps water from getting into the frame. After wet or rainy rides, I usually pull the seatpost out and turn the bike upside down to dry.
You got it almost right Khill!
MY Surly would probably be still somewhere in the Pacific Ocean as the promised 2 weeks waiting has becomes 3 weeks...My LBS has confirmed to me that it will be in the shops this Friday...Hopefully it's true...

So during this waiting time and dreaming of my Surly...That maintenance issues pops out my mind...Anyway, thanks a lot guys for your suggestions. I'll try to find one of those stuffs.

Happy Trails.
 

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or...

you could just skip the frame prep completely, and use the lack of rust treatment as an excuse to have a new custom frame and fork built every year or two...

I think a better plan would be to do the treatment AND get a custom built every year or two.

yeah thats it.

Enjoy the Surly, they rock.
 

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-_-
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Homemade ChainLube Frame Protectant

No! Never use WD-40 unless you're gonna bag it and not use it.

Yeah, it's great as a moisture displacer, but actually disolves oil. It'll actually cause rust to accumulate more readily. That's why it says to loosten stuff.
info link: http://www.dirtworld.com/TipsAndTricks/TipsStory.asp?id=371

Use either Boeshield or make some "Free Lube"and use it.

No, I'm not giving out the "Fire Lube" formula, but...

"Free-Lube" isn't free, but for basic rust prevention and chain lube, it's final cost might as well be.

1. Find some decent motor oil/linseed oil.
2. Pick up some Odorless denentured mineral spirits. (AKA: Thinner)
~odorless because your family will thank you for it not smelling noxious.
3. Find a safe, well ventilated area to do the following:

~1-2 parts thinner
~2 parts oil
~1 part oil stabilizer*

Mix it in a sealable container, use it as you need. You might want to play with the formula some depending on temperature/climate/desired consistency.
*note: I've used a Lucas oil stabilizer for more dusty/heavy use situations with great success. It also keeps the oil viscosity more stable for frame-prep/protection. This step is not needed with the Linseed Oil unless you plan to use it for chain lube.

4. ADVISORY:

Clearly Mark your bottle. Trust me on this, you don't want to grab this one for that "Oh the engine's a quart low." situation on accident.
This makes some of the most reasonably priced lube around, and I've used it for years on the circuit successfully. I just didn't give you my complete formula.

The added bonuses are:

1. It works great for just about everything!(I recently freed up a frozen GM Air Compressor Clutch on the shop truck with it!-Made sure to wash it out after to prevent any fires.)

2. It is in a non aeresol/pressurized format and that's always nice.

3. For less than $19 you got frame protection/lube forever, or enough refill material for 15-20 friends with empty lube bottles.
~In my case about a month considering I use it almost exclusively, or hand it out to friends/clients.

You can play with the formula if you have the knowledge. One guy that owns a shop in Oregon even makes a Wax based batch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Great ideas! I might try them just in case I couldn't find one of those frame saver mentioned above...

But I have another question though;

After applying the frame saver on, how long (months of riding) do you guys need to re-apply the coating?

sounds to me also like you need to totally dismantle the whole bike(meaning, remove headset, bottom bracket etc..etc...) for the re-coating using the oil-based formula as compared to the aerosol type??? :confused:
 
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