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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have started to have blow-off problems with my Stan's Olympic front wheel using standard tires and Stan's fluid.
1st blow-off: JRA- Kenda Neveagal blows right off rim, fortunately I was climbing. Used this same wheel/tire on a 5 hour epic about 3 days ago. Put a tube in and finished ride
2nd blow-off: Airing up brand new Specialized Roll-X (I had successfully used this set-up before). Blows off rim at a pressure that did not seem all that high. Clean up mess, re-do tire, seems ok but not real high pressure.
3rd blowoff: Back at home about 45 min. later. Airing up with pump because tire is not up to riding presure. Blows off at about 35 lb.
What is going on here? Am I doing something wrong? I see no damage of any kind to the rim? Is there something wrong with my mounting procedure? How can I restore my faith in this rim/sealant set-up?
 

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Try this

Hmmm......I've had ZERO problems with my Olympic rims to date. Here are some things to make sure:

1) Use the yellow spoke tape. Pull the tape VERY TIGHTLY over the entire rim and overlap the tape by 4-5cm past the valve hole.

2) Use Stan's 5g UST valves

3) Do not use any rimstrips, just mount the tire into the drop channel in the rim

4) Use a new tire that is reccomended by Stan's site with a strong kevlar bead

5) Never exceed 40-42psi in your tires

6) Check your rim for dents in the rim. Stan's rims are notorious for dings and dents in the top of the rim due to running too low of air pressures in rocky terrain. Fix the dents by bending the metal back into place with a crescent wrench.

If none of those idea work, TRY A DEFFERNT TIRE AGAIN! The rims work great and really hold the bead of the tire VERY strong. So I doubt it is the rims fault. Also, just to make sure, make sure that the yellow spoke tape is centered on the rim. If it rides up on the side of the rim where the tire will mount, it could cause a weak spot in the tire bead.

That's my only guess, unless your pump pressure gauge is way off--dont go over 42psi ever! You don't need to with tubeless tires, ever! Use tubes if you need to put a lot of pressure in the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stan's blow-out

I also should mention that I was using the yellow rim strip only when this occured.
By back wheel with the same set-up has has no issues.
Just bad luck? Should I use the rubber sealing strip up front? I really don't want a blow-out like this on a descent or cornering!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
floor pump was culprit

I ust discovered that my floor pump was the likely culprit. It was under-reading by at least 10 lbs. My 38ish lbs. in the wheel was likely 48 or more. BAM!

EpicriderGMAC said:
Hmmm......I've had ZERO problems with my Olympic rims to date. Here are some things to make sure:

1) Use the yellow spoke tape. Pull the tape VERY TIGHTLY over the entire rim and overlap the tape by 4-5cm past the valve hole.

2) Use Stan's 5g UST valves

3) Do not use any rimstrips, just mount the tire into the drop channel in the rim

4) Use a new tire that is reccomended by Stan's site with a strong kevlar bead

5) Never exceed 40-42psi in your tires

6) Check your rim for dents in the rim. Stan's rims are notorious for dings and dents in the top of the rim due to running too low of air pressures in rocky terrain. Fix the dents by bending the metal back into place with a crescent wrench.

If none of those idea work, TRY A DEFFERNT TIRE AGAIN! The rims work great and really hold the bead of the tire VERY strong. So I doubt it is the rims fault. Also, just to make sure, make sure that the yellow spoke tape is centered on the rim. If it rides up on the side of the rim where the tire will mount, it could cause a weak spot in the tire bead.

That's my only guess, unless your pump pressure gauge is way off--dont go over 42psi ever! You don't need to with tubeless tires, ever! Use tubes if you need to put a lot of pressure in the tires.
 

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bootsie_cat said:
I ust discovered that my floor pump was the likely culprit. It was under-reading by at least 10 lbs. My 38ish lbs. in the wheel was likely 48 or more. BAM!
I bought a set of these wheels and it did the same thing, with the Nevagals, too. Blew off a couple of times, before I could even get a ride in. Took them back to the shop and returned them.
 

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No problems with Hutchinson and Kenda

I've used the Olympic rims with Hutchinson Python Airlites and Kenda Karma/Nevgal tires with ZERO problems. The rims air up these tires with no rimstrip, just a floop pump and the yellow spoke tape.

I got my wheels built up by Dave at SpeedDream wheels. You should too--these wheels are garanteed for life and Dave will rebuild them if anything ever goes wrong. He uses a unique spoke lacing pattern and differing spoke gauges that make a super stiff, durable wheelset even on the very lightweight Olympic rim. At 76Kg's I've had no problems racing and training on them all year long. I plan to use these wheels for quite a few more years the same way!

I can't really reccomend these rims enough. If you want to run Stan's, the Olympic rim is the way to go. Don't worry about blowoffs--there are quite a few guys on our team who use this rim and NONE of them have ANY problems. Even at 85Kg's, these wheels are a good daily riding set.

Enjoy~
 

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I've had one blowoff with the Olympic rims after a full season of racing. But, It was completely my fault since I over inflated the tire upon upon reseating it, and then forgetting and let it sit in the sun at a 12hr race. Silly me.

Out of several brands of tires, the only tire I decided not to run upon seeing how loose on the bead they were, was the Kenda Klimax lites. In contrast, the Kenda Karma is one of the best mounting/sealing tires out there when run with sealant. Never ever burp, leak down, etc. Air up great even without strips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
blow-off

Mine are Olympic rims built by Speedreams as well. No problem with the builder, just the rims. Funny that you posted and re-activated this thread because I blew another one yesterday. JRA up a climb- blammo. To be fair it was a tire that blew off before and was remounted. I guess that it is true that once a tire has blown, the bead is compromised and should no longer be used with a tubeless Stan's set-up. I remounted with Conti Expolorers and all went well. We will see what hapens in the next few rides.

EpicriderGMAC said:
I've used the Olympic rims with Hutchinson Python Airlites and Kenda Karma/Nevgal tires with ZERO problems. The rims air up these tires with no rimstrip, just a floop pump and the yellow spoke tape.

I got my wheels built up by Dave at SpeedDream wheels. You should too--these wheels are garanteed for life and Dave will rebuild them if anything ever goes wrong. He uses a unique spoke lacing pattern and differing spoke gauges that make a super stiff, durable wheelset even on the very lightweight Olympic rim. At 76Kg's I've had no problems racing and training on them all year long. I plan to use these wheels for quite a few more years the same way!

I can't really reccomend these rims enough. If you want to run Stan's, the Olympic rim is the way to go. Don't worry about blowoffs--there are quite a few guys on our team who use this rim and NONE of them have ANY problems. Even at 85Kg's, these wheels are a good daily riding set.

Enjoy~
 

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"unique" spoke lacing pattern

EpicriderGMAC said:
I got my wheels built up by Dave at SpeedDream wheels. You should too--these wheels are garanteed for life and Dave will rebuild them if anything ever goes wrong. He uses a unique spoke lacing pattern and differing spoke gauges that make a super stiff, durable wheelset even on the very lightweight Olympic rim.
Just curious, what is the "unique" spoke lacing pattern? I think I remember seeing/hearing something about keeping all the spoke heads on one side of the flange to minimize dish. Is that it?
 

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shiggy said:
I think it varies with the application
http://speeddream.com
Yeah, I spent some time there this morning before I replied. Didn't study the whole site, but I didn't find any specific mention of unique spoke lacing patterns on the site, but it was a little hard to find amongst the philosophy and bike magazine articles from when I was in college. :eek:

Nothing against Dave, though, better that he builds good wheels than having an ultra-slick website.

I understand he does different things for different folks -- I was curious about EpicriderGMAC's wheels, since he a) has the wheels and b) mentioned the "unique" pattern.
 

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1x and 2x, mixed with 3x

Dave used a spoke lacing pattern than I had never seen on a disc brake wheel before. I think you can see it in these pictures here:







If you can see it, Dave used 1x lacing with super-butted 14/17 spokes on the non-disc front side and 3x lighter butted 15/17 spokes on the disc front side. He did a similar thing in the rear with 2x on the disc side and 3x on the drive side, with beefier spokes on the drive side and the same 14/17 spokes on the disc side.

All I can say is that I haven't touched my wheels since I installed them. They are sweet.
 

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EpicriderGMAC said:
If you can see it, Dave used 1x lacing with super-butted 14/17 spokes on the non-disc front side and 3x lighter butted 15/17 spokes on the disc front side. He did a similar thing in the rear with 2x on the disc side and 3x on the drive side, with beefier spokes on the drive side and the same 14/17 spokes on the disc side.
First, damn pretty bike!

As for the wheels - a little hard to see in the pictures, but good description. If he can build wheels with that spec that are still strong, that's pretty damn impressive. I'll stick with 3x for the wheels I build, I just ain't got that level of experience or talent. ;)
 

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even better

hehe...you should see it with my new Nokon silver cables, a profile design carbon bottle cage, and the brake lines cut down....

Absolutely beautiful. It gieves me an excuse to ride even when its 0 degrees outside.
 
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