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OK, so it might still work really well for some people, but I've a better solution for people with odd-sized rims and cheapskates. I'm not the first: I read about this in a sideline in MBUK, and thought it looked good...2 mos later, I gave it a whirl....

Tape your rim as per Stan's, with good strapping tape, and nothing else. Stretch a 20" BMX tube to fit (you'll probably have to drill your rims to fit a schraeder valve), and slice it right down the middle with good, sharp shears, opposite the valve. Clean the inside of the tube with denatured alcohol after rolling it over the rim beads, and proceed from there as you would with any other tubeless method (see Stan's site). (Use some sealant, but, by nature of the experiment, make your own!) Once the tire is mounted, trim the overhanging tube back with shears, and go ride.

I'm using 219 rims, and Stan doesn't make a kit. I had a leftover from soem 317s, and Stan's site says that only the rim tape needs to be left in place when the stip is installed, just to bulk things up enough to push the strip to where it ought to be. Well, that's a load of horse sh*t - the rim is still simply too wide for such a narrow strip. I did succeed in getting it in place after adding strapping tape, rim tape, and one of those cheap rubber strips from the bottom drawer at the LBS. With all that gear in there, though, the wheel weighed the same as it did with a super-heavyweight DH tube! Anywhoo, the solution above is very effective, cost $10, and weighs much less than Stan's, especially for those of us with oddly-sized rims. Good luck!
 

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Back of the pack fat guy
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Hey shiggy - your $.02?

Shiggy - I posted this question a few threads down (in the "Stans, is it worth it" thread), but I was wondering your personal opinion on "no tubes" systems. I'm running Stan's right now on my XC bike (717 rims and a combo Mutano/Vertical pro tire selection), but considering going back to tubes if for no reason other than ease of use. Heck, I run the tires on my rigid SS at 25 psi (front) and 35 psi (rear) and haven't ever pinch flatted either. At the recommendation of a friend at the LBS, I thought I'd give Stans a whirl. Can't tell a huge performance difference. What do you run (tubes or tubeless) and why?
 

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Earthpig said:
Shiggy - I posted this question a few threads down (in the "Stans, is it worth it" thread), but I was wondering your personal opinion on "no tubes" systems. I'm running Stan's right now on my XC bike (717 rims and a combo Mutano/Vertical pro tire selection), but considering going back to tubes if for no reason other than ease of use. Heck, I run the tires on my rigid SS at 25 psi (front) and 35 psi (rear) and haven't ever pinch flatted either. At the recommendation of a friend at the LBS, I thought I'd give Stans a whirl. Can't tell a huge performance difference. What do you run (tubes or tubeless) and why?
I do not recommend or use DIY tubeless. I have tried Stan's (pre rimstrips) and could not get it to seal for more than a week. I did win my class in a race using it in one wheel but I had to put a tube in the other one 20 minutes before the start. What concerns me more is using a tire in a manner it was never designed for. Not worth the risk to me.

I have a Conti Explorer ProTection that was used with Stan's for more than a year (by another rider). It has a big hernia bulge in the middle of the tread. The casing on the inside has broken down - the rubber is gone and the threads are separating in the bulge area. There are no other signs of damage on the outside. Have been several reports of similar Conti failures on this and the weight boards.

I ride tubes and UST tubeless. Just started using UST about a month ago and have not noticed much difference over standard tires/tubes. If anything the UST wheel/tire combo is heavier (wheels: + 60-110g, tires: + 150-190g; - innertube: 104-190g = + 20-196g). I can not run the UST tires any lower than I use in standard tires - I already use low pressures and rarely pinch flat.

I plan on doing some back-to-back tests of the same model/size tires in standard and UST.
 

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shiggy©®™ said:
I do not recommend or use DIY tubeless. I have tried Stan's (pre rimstrips) and could not get it to seal for more than a week. I did win my class in a race using it in one wheel but I had to put a tube in the other one 20 minutes before the start. What concerns me more is using a tire in a manner it was never designed for. Not worth the risk to me.
I have been testing different tires the past few weekends and was thinking what a PITA it would've have been to remove DIY tubeless.

I have resisted trying the DIY tubeless solution for quite sometime and have never been able to express it clearly. Shiggy's comments is dead-on of how I feel. MBA mag is a strong proponent of Stans (as many people here as well). But hearing opinions about the cons and small/if even noticeable performance increase still puts me off.

I am currently using DT Switss 4.1d rims (so UST is not an option) and am happy with my slime tubes.
 

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Unshaven Yak
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I have Mavic XM321's, which are virtually identical to the 219's & the Stan's kit I got worked perfectly for mine.

I will be taking your advice on the use of BMX tubes for a second wheelset though...thanks for that.

Also, where can I find the home-mix ingredients & mixing instructions?

I really like the tubeless feel, to each his own.
 

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Stinky Wiz said:
I have Mavic XM321's, which are virtually identical to the 219's & the Stan's kit I got worked perfectly for mine.

I will be taking your advice on the use of BMX tubes for a second wheelset though...thanks for that.

Also, where can I find the home-mix ingredients & mixing instructions?

I really like the tubeless feel, to each his own.
Another thing you can use is a regular 26" presta valve tube, cut it shorter and glue it with rubber cement from a patch kit (or a large tube of rubber cement from an auto parts store, its cheaper). I've used this numerous times with no problems.
 

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Stan's & F219's work for me

SDizzle said:
OK, so it might still work really well for some people, but I've a better solution for people with odd-sized rims and cheapskates. I'm not the first: I read about this in a sideline in MBUK, and thought it looked good...2 mos later, I gave it a whirl....

Tape your rim as per Stan's, with good strapping tape, and nothing else. Stretch a 20" BMX tube to fit (you'll probably have to drill your rims to fit a schraeder valve), and slice it right down the middle with good, sharp shears, opposite the valve. Clean the inside of the tube with denatured alcohol after rolling it over the rim beads, and proceed from there as you would with any other tubeless method (see Stan's site). (Use some sealant, but, by nature of the experiment, make your own!) Once the tire is mounted, trim the overhanging tube back with shears, and go ride.

I'm using 219 rims, and Stan doesn't make a kit. I had a leftover from soem 317s, and Stan's site says that only the rim tape needs to be left in place when the stip is installed, just to bulk things up enough to push the strip to where it ought to be. Well, that's a load of horse sh*t - the rim is still simply too wide for such a narrow strip. I did succeed in getting it in place after adding strapping tape, rim tape, and one of those cheap rubber strips from the bottom drawer at the LBS. With all that gear in there, though, the wheel weighed the same as it did with a super-heavyweight DH tube! Anywhoo, the solution above is very effective, cost $10, and weighs much less than Stan's, especially for those of us with oddly-sized rims. Good luck!
SDizzle,

Not sure how you got the idea that Stan's has no rim strip for the F219. I've used their standard strip with my F219's for over a year with both Python's and Schwalbe light Albert's with great results.

I was able to inflate with a floor pump using the Python's but needed a compressor for the Albert's. I won't try to convert anyone to Stan's, that's their choice but when I removed my worn out Python's last month I found no less than SIX large thorns in the front tire, that's SIX times I didn't have to stop on a ride to fix a flat. Pretty much a no brainer in my book regardless of any other benefits Stan's provides.

Russ
 

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I used Stans until I needed to add more "juice" and had to break the bead.I never di get the things to reseat.I was using Sun DS-2 with Trailblasters. I just got some Cinders and tried to seat them with the same results. I did like the flat resistence but hated the mooshy feel when climbing.those that say it lowers rolling resitence has evidently not climbed a big hill on a DH bike and does not weigh over 200pounds. Ive gone to a larger tube(2.0-2.2 instead of1.75-2.0) and the weight difference is negligable but Ive yet to get a flat and this is on places I got them constantly before Stans. thats why I went with Stans if you like Stans thats great but I do not, and have a quart of that stuff in my shed I will probably never use,as well as the rim strips.I know of people who use the stuff on their USTs like slime and love it but I need more than 40psi and am concerned about side blowouts at the worst times on non UST tires as well
 

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No Need To Break The Bead...........

markthetaselmore said:
I used Stans until I needed to add more "juice" and had to break the bead.I never di get the things to reseat.I was using Sun DS-2 with Trailblasters. I just got some Cinders and tried to seat them with the same results. I did like the flat resistence but hated the mooshy feel when climbing.those that say it lowers rolling resitence has evidently not climbed a big hill on a DH bike and does not weigh over 200pounds. Ive gone to a larger tube(2.0-2.2 instead of1.75-2.0) and the weight difference is negligable but Ive yet to get a flat and this is on places I got them constantly before Stans. thats why I went with Stans if you like Stans thats great but I do not, and have a quart of that stuff in my shed I will probably never use,as well as the rim strips.I know of people who use the stuff on their USTs like slime and love it but I need more than 40psi and am concerned about side blowouts at the worst times on non UST tires as well
...........to add more sealant. All you need to do is remove the valve core and use the bottle you can get from Stan's to add the sealant through the stem, then just install the valve sore, inflate and away you go. No need to deal with breaking the seal between the tire and rim strip and have to deal with the hassle of getting the bead/rim strip to hook up again.

Russ
 
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