Currently debating between these two options for a durable XC wheel build. Would like the wheels to last for a long time. All else being equal (Hubs, Spokes, Hole Count). How much would I be missing out on by going with the Crests vs the Carbon rims? Crest shows 399g, LB is 360g. Price difference would be roughly $200-$250 since LB is running a special currently. They would be going on a 120mm XC oriented hardtail with speed and performance in mind.
Stans Crest Mk4 vs Light Bikes XC925
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Both good choices, but IMHO Carbonfan 30mm internal rims are the best choice.
www.carbonfan.com
T800 super light MTB rim & wheels - Mountain Bike, Depth 29.5, Depth 30mm
, Depth 29.5, Depth 30mm
www.carbonfan.com
this is more of an XC build, I prefer the feel of a lighter tire vs something like a 2.6.
these look nice. They are about the same price as LB with their discount right now however. I looked briefly but couldn’t find much if any difference between the two.Both good choices, but IMHO Carbonfan 30mm internal rims are the best choice.
T800 super light MTB rim & wheels - Mountain Bike, Depth 29.5, Depth 30mm
, Depth 29.5, Depth 30mm
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As mentioned by another poster the main difference would be the benefits of a 30mm IW rim. Even for 2.2s this allows a lower pressure and more confident cornering response.
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I think it comes down to how much a ww you may be ... the carbon will likely be lighter and marginally stiffer, the alloy marginally more compliant. {{shrug}} ... go with what makes you "feel happier" ... for the record I have 2 pr wheels built on LB rims (a 7 - yes seven - yr old pair of 35mm with 30mm ID 29er, and 1 yr old pr of AM930 Recon Pro). For another project I recently rebuilt a 27.5 wheelset using the Flow Mk4 and they're really nice ... hard to go wrong, I appreciate that they've all provided "asym" drilling now for more even spoke tension, although I have a hard time thinking it's a huge difference.
I’ve had one set of heavyish rims on Shimano Deore hubs for the last 10 years…. I’ve “wanted” a set of carbon rims for awhile, but I just never could pull the trigger. I’m now working on a new bike build and just wondering if carbon rims should stay a dream or become a reality! The difference might be 200-250 grams at most. For about $250 more. Guess I was hoping for stories of either “I had Carbon and went back to AL because of XYZ” or vice versa. Might be harder to justify a new set of hoops after I just built a bike if I don’t jive with the Carbon or still lust after them on an AL set.
It's 200-250g at a location where it makes a big difference in acceleration and braking. The only place on a bike where weight has more influence is the tires themselves.
I was a skeptic about carbon rims until I had a Light Bicycles rim just about drop in my lap from a friend. I built up a front wheel (my first) with an ancient DT Swiss Hügi hub. The jury is still out on longevity - I've only got about a dozen rides on it - but it seems to be holding up well to my ham-handed riding style. And it is definitely lighter than the wheel it replaced.
Im building up a new bike. I was on a 2011Jamis Dragon One with basic components. I think I would be content with a nice hand built AL wheelset, but in the back of my mind I might always just wonder what about carbon hoops?Do I spend the upfront cost now, and then build up an AL set later if they are too harsh, or just go with AL set and hope it’s enough!
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DT Swiss XM 421 for durable 25mm inner rims but are you focused on weight more? These do weigh 465g but worth the 135g difference if you want wheels to last for a long time.
Yeah weight savings between carbon and alloy gets smaller and smaller, so if you go with carbon, I'd do it for the stiffness and lifetime warranty that most brands now offer. For me that would depend on how often I'm going through my alloy rims. I know some guys who used to go through a set of alloy rims every other year, so it made sense to invest in a pair of Reserves. If you don't put that kinda abuse on your rims though, I'd just take the small weight penalty and save the $1500.
Also depends what you're riding. If someone offered me carbon rims for free on my enduro/DH bike, I'd still opt for aluminum. Different story on my trail bike.
FWIW: I've not seen the Crest MK4, but the MK3 were pretty annoying to build, being symmetrical and with a low maximum spoke tension (95kgf). The MK4s are 115kgf IIRC, but most carbon rims are 125kgf at least. Both a higher max tension and asymmetry really help to get those left rear spokes tight enough.
If it was me I'd also consider DT Swiss as their rims are really straight and round, so easier to build than most.
If it was me I'd also consider DT Swiss as their rims are really straight and round, so easier to build than most.
My last set of rims lasted 10 years and needed truing twice. I live in Texas and keep both wheels firmly on the ground!
I looked at DT Swiss. Also looking hard at Race Face Arc 25/30. They are offset and I’ve read good things about them being well built.
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Haven’t run Crests myself, but seen all of my friends who’ve had them break rims left and right, including spokes pulling through the rim on factory wheels. Would not touch them even if they were wider.
I have had good luck with my DT XR1501s and Newmen SL rims are nice options for alloy, but for a weight weenie with a flexible budget I would always recommend carbon.
I have had good luck with my DT XR1501s and Newmen SL rims are nice options for alloy, but for a weight weenie with a flexible budget I would always recommend carbon.
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i lived in Austin from '99 to '09 and went through a ton of rims, we must not have enjoyed the same trails. I usually had to replace my rear rim annually and front every 2-3 years. I'll admit to being addicted to a steady diet of City Park and similar trail though along with multiple trips to Moab, Tucson, & Sedona. Not easy stuff on the wheels even after I got full suspension.
Then I moved to PA and found out what "chronic rockiness" means. There's good reasons that Rothrock forest is nicknamed "rock rock" by the locals.
The fact that those LB carbon rims I had laughed all that PA rock off, well, not shabby. I saw multiple Stan's Flow rims of all generations die eventually there. {shrug}
ps. on the Crest vs other rims ... unless you're in a situation where the weight difference is truly meaningful (e.g. racing for money) i'd advise up-shifting to slightly heavier to get longevity. The extra pedaling effort won't really kill you, you'll adapt. :^)
North Texas is decidedly less technical than Central Texas (more roots less rocks) but maybe I’m justa really slow non-aggressive rider!
I ended up splurging for a pair of White Industries 28h XMR hubs (on sale) that I’m going to build up with a set of Race Face ARC 25 rims and a 2.0/1.8 butted spokes. It’ll be my first wheel build and if things go pear shaped I’ll only be out the cost of rim and spokes (hopefully). I figure I could upgrade to carbon after a few years if I want to change the bike setup up, and the weight of the rim is comparable to an id30 wide carbon hoop.
IMHO, this comes down to buyer's remorse versus cash. You'll probably be happy with carbon, so if you might wonder forever after if you get alu then perhaps it's worth lashing out. OTOH, if you're not so flush I doubt alu will hold you back, assuming there's a modicum of care in building and riding. If in doubt I'd be inclined to avoid the Crests. (I have Crest MK3s but only on symmetrical front wheels with dynamo hubs on drop bar bikes - no big drops, rock gardens, etc - the rear wheels were a worry, and ended up with DT X361s.)
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Take your time with the build, true and tension and de-stress well, and check i'm a couple times after you get miles on them and i'm sure they'll be great for many many miles.
Good luck!
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