[TwoTone]

So thinking about a plus bike. I also have major life change coming up in about a year and I think I want to start doing some bike packing, nothing extreme.

I was thinking the 1120 might be a better buy for that as I can run it without the racks, but if I do get into bike packing the racks and the fork would be nice to already have.

If I got a Stache the plan was to run it rigid anyway. I know the HTA is slightly steeper on the Stache, but honestly I'm fine with older geo, still holding on the a Ripley LS and wish I hadn't sold the OG Ripley.

Just looking for thoughts since I've never had a 29+ or done any bike packing.

Thanks

 

[CCSS]

You’ll dig either of the two, but if bike packing is your goal, the 1120 is a no brainer. Pretty sure Trek is still selling it as a complete bike.

Welcome to rigid 29x3. You’re gonna love it!


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[prj71]

Isn't the 1120 just a Stache with a rigid fork?

 

[TwoTone]

Isn't the 1120 just a Stache with a rigid fork?

Not accroding to what I've read, geo is a little more conservative. It's basically inbetween the early and late Staches.

 

[DeadGrandpa]

I've had my 1120 since the model became available. If I could only keep one bike for off pavement, this would be it.

 

[mikesee]

The 1120 is a great bike.

If I could have both I would. Since I only have room for one, I have the 1120. I've ridden it as a rigid SS, rigid geared, and geared with front sus. Liked it in every config.

 

[jonshonda]

Doesn't the 1120 have "what the biking world would consider" substantially longer chainstays?

 

[wschruba]

Doesn't the 1120 have "what the biking world would consider" substantially longer chainstays?

Kind of, but when you consider the size of the wheel/tire, it's pretty damn short. Neither bike is difficult to wheelie, but I will say this:

The Stache (current geo) has a tendency to want to unweight the front climbing in the saddle. Useful when you are used to it/climbing up some chunky crap, but an extra centimeter isn't necessarily a bad thing.

 

[jonshonda]

Kind of, but when you consider the size of the wheel/tire, it's pretty damn short. Neither bike is difficult to wheelie, but I will say this:

The Stache (current geo) has a tendency to want to unweight the front climbing in the saddle. Useful when you are used to it/climbing up some chunky crap, but an extra centimeter isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Yeah good point. That is my concern with the short chainstays, and I suppose that with the more traditional slack st angle there just isn't much that is going eliminate that issue. I remember my early Canfield N9 was a really great bike, but seated climbing was terrible. That light front end just didn't want to track and flopped all over the place.

 

[wschruba]

Yeah good point. That is my concern with the short chainstays, and I suppose that with the more traditional slack st angle there just isn't much that is going eliminate that issue. I remember my early Canfield N9 was a really great bike, but seated climbing was terrible. That light front end just didn't want to track and flopped all over the place.

I don't know your terrain, but my local park is easily 200 ft per mile of elevation, with nothing longer than a quarter mile. I've infrequently not cleared a climb because of an unplanted front end.

I found the balance of the Stache reasonable, all things considered. The 1120 is definitely more planted, though.

 

[jonshonda]

I don't know your terrain, but my local park is easily 200 ft per mile of elevation, with nothing longer than a quarter mile. I've infrequently not cleared a climb because of an unplanted front end.

I found the balance of the Stache reasonable, all things considered. The 1120 is definitely more planted, though.

Like I said I remember having issues with my 1st gen N9, and don't want to have those issues again. My current bike has 455mm CS and while I would like to try something a bit shorter, I do love it's stability and in the saddle climbing. Just find lifting the front whilst standing can be a bit of a challenge, but not sure if 20mm CS length is going to change much of that!

 

[wschruba]

Like I said I remember having issues with my 1st gen N9, and don't want to have those issues again. My current bike has 455mm CS and while I would like to try something a bit shorter, I do love it's stability and in the saddle climbing. Just find lifting the front whilst standing can be a bit of a challenge, but not sure if 20mm CS length is going to change much of that!

If you get the chance, I doubt you would not like either bike. I find the Stache not too difficult to get the front end up while standing, though that is not typically my bag. Maybe when unloading the front off a drop/jump. I do find that I do that more when using it in singlespeed mode, but then I'm not intentionally hitting the super-difficult uphill line when I do. I don't ride the Stache with a rigid fork (straight seatpost when singlespeed, though), so read into that what you will.

It is worlds different than riding a high-bottom bracket full suspension, though. The closest I think I could describe in common terms is a cruiser (like, BMX, not beach bike); you can pedal for quite a long time, but the bike is easy to move beneath you. Like a cruiser, your cranks are pretty close to the ground.

 

[DeadGrandpa]

Doesn't the 1120 have "what the biking world would consider" substantially longer chainstays?

My 1120 has some kind of flip chip in the dropout, giving me the option of either 420mm or 440mm chainstay length. I've been using the shorter length position.

 

[202cycle]

My 1120 has some kind of flip chip in the dropout, giving me the option of either 420mm or 440mm chainstay length. I've been using the shorter length position.

It's a sliding dropout. You can dump that spacer and the chain stays are fully adjustable within the range.

 

[Mebaru]

Personally, I like Stache geo more because it is better for trail riding. That's why I've bought the Stache frame. 1120 geo is better for pedal missions. All "bikepacking" exclusive gear from 1120 can be retrofitted to Stache or you can find even better alternatives to it.

 

[wschruba]

Personally, I like Stache geo more because it is better for trail riding. That's why I've bought the Stache frame. 1120 geo is better for pedal missions. All "bikepacking" exclusive gear from 1120 can be retrofitted to Stache or you can find even better alternatives to it.

Well, I mean, the rear rack can't...but it's apparently problematic, anyway.

 

[Mebaru]

Well, I mean, the rear rack can't...but it's apparently problematic, anyway.

I read some people did it using clamps and some refining to the rack. Another way is to use Aeroe spider rack

 

[mikesee]

Personally, I like Stache geo more because it is better for trail riding. That's why I've bought the Stache frame. 1120 geo is better for pedal missions. All "bikepacking" exclusive gear from 1120 can be retrofitted to Stache or you can find even better alternatives to it.

The front rack is specific to the 1120's fork. Won't work on the Stache.

And someone else pointed out the same about the rear rack.

 

[Mebaru]

The front rack is specific to the 1120's fork. Won't work on the Stache.

And someone else pointed out the same about the rear rack.

Yes, I know that front and rear racks are specific 1120 and can't be used as is on other frames/forks.
1120 fork and racks are available from Trek distributors and could be used on Stache, I think.
Regarding rear rack - I've read reports that people were able to retrofit it on Stache. Not sure, how they did it though. One person mentioned he was using clamp collars. As I've wrote earlier, there's several alternatives to 1120 racks that can be used on any compatible bike. For example, Aeroe spider rear rack with side bags. Front rack options are rather plentiful.