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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 specialized hardrock pro that I'm considering converting to ss. I'm wondering exactly what I'll need, and how much it will cost. I will do all work myself. Do I need new cranks?
 

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i call it a kaiser blade
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you don't need a new crank, you can modify your existing crank but you'll probably need a new unramped chainring.

single speed conversion spacer kit and a single speed cog.

half link or a singleator, most people would argue that you try to get your chain line tensioned with half links than something that provides drag like a singleator.

that's about it, really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I can't wait to ditch my gears and start the new season on an ss. That way I can quit wasting money on drivetrain repairs and upgrade some stuff. Any recomendations on brands for the cogs, chainrings, and the tensioner?
 

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i call it a kaiser blade
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Destin said:
Thanks. I can't wait to ditch my gears and start the new season on an ss. That way I can quit wasting money on drivetrain repairs and upgrade some stuff. Any recomendations on brands for the cogs, chainrings, and the tensioner?
i'm sort of in the ghetto bike crowd, so i run surly chain rings and cogs (33-16). they're the most durable and not very expensive. i also use a surly spacer kit.

all of that stuff is inexpensive and very tough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok cool. What gear combo should I start with? I live in the northeast so it's mostly rolling hills with lots of rocks. I race a few times a year too and my most frequent ride includes a two mile gradual fireroad climb.
 

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Gear for that climb. If you bust apart a cassette you can try a bunch of diffferent gears but if you gear too tall and that fireroad climb saps all your energy you will be hating the rest of the ride and cutting it short.

I have pretty much the same situation with a 2 mile fireroad to start getting to the good stuff. I was making it up that road "too easy" in my opinion and I geared from my "too easy" 20 teeth, to an 18 tooth cog all summer. I still made it up the fireroad but I was slogging the whole way and by the time I got to the good stuff I would end up cutting the ride short. I just changed back to the 20 tooth and holy cow yeah it was kind of easy getting up the fireroad but then I could stay out and ride a lot longer. Two teeth make a hell of a lot of difference.
 

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I run 32front on a 29er that's not very hardcore I don't race but if you gear for your ability you'll be faster on the hills and slower on the flats. I was mostly just saying in general, don't be too proud to go lower if you find yourself slogging too much on that first fireroad
 

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eat_dirt said:
most people would argue that you try to get your chain line tensioned with half links than something that provides drag like a singleator.

that's about it, really.
I got mine real tight without the half link, just lucky i guess, but I assumed that I still need the tensioner to account for chain strech? I'm using a KMC chain from misfit. I haven't riden it yet, waiting on some parts. Thx
 

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I just converted my hardrock to single speed but it was a little more complicated that i first thought. Forgive me if I use the wrong terminology here but im new to taking bikes apart.

so lets start with the back. It had a freewheel in the back so it would have taken a mass amount of work to convert to single speed (according to 2 mechanics at the lbs) I had to buy a new rear wheel and then use the ss conversion kit. then it had a one piece crank and the chain rings would not come apart. I have yet to pick one up but i have to buy a whole new ss crank. all told im dollar wise as follows:

Shimano rear wheel (cant remember which one) 119
SS conversion Kit -- 24
sram ss chain 12
forte break levers -- 14
time -- 1.5 hours.

still need a crank. right now im running just my middle 35t chain ring with a rear 20t cog. even as a pos throw together this thing is a blast to ride. i could very easily see myself putting my mucho bucks fs bike in the back corner for this thing. my ebay list includes new stem, bar, saddle, grips and then im gonna strip it down and repaint. this thing will be *****en when its done. have fun building, im sure you will like the end result.

anybody have a crank they want to sell that is in good condition??
 

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by the way....the parts i listed above are definately not the most durable. you can spend a ton of money on an SS finding the most durable parts available. with that in mind, i have not been light on this bike and have had not even the slightest sign of weekness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks bill Dow, my crankset does have removable chainrings, and my brake levers and shifters are seperate. Plus I have a cassette not a freewheel so mine shouldnt be too hard. I'm planning on eventualy buying a new ss specific wheelset to save weight. I dont know if I'm going to keep the bb5 brakes or not. They work great but are a lot of maintenance so I'll probably get some hydros. My fork is ok for now as the stock one had a warrenty issue so I got the best rst made( which is still a pos) but will last one more season. I'm also considering having the frame painted but that's a long way down the road
 

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cool. you probably have the one level up from me. I dont know what mine is called but it is an 08 hardrock with the crap discs breaks (breaking is overrated anyways). i have the same RST front fork and your right that is a POS. Im going to put a Talas on it that I have laying around. Im not worried about weight on this thing since when i jump on it, im used to riding my FS which is 8 or so pounds more so the SS feels plenty light to me.

since your bike is set up for the easy conversion you will literally spend 50 ish bucks on the conversion and a new front chain ring without the ramps, take all the excess baggage off and you will be off in running in less than 2 hours. Have fun....i love this bike as an SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sweet I'm so pumped to get this thing going. Just need to figure out which parts to order. What gear combo are you running? Sorry if I missed that in one of your posts but I'm viewing this on my I phone so it's kinda hard.
 

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local trails rider
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I've been running a standard ramped 32 tooth chainring on one bike without any real issues. I have good chainline and a fixed (as opposed to spring loaded) tensioner. The only thing is, the ramps collect dirt, so I have to do some extra cleaning to keep the drivetrain quiet when the conditions are dirty.

32/16 is considered some sort of a "standard" gearing for 26er bikes. That is a bit too tall for me, where I live. A cheap pack of a few different cogs would let you experiment, to find a gearing that works for you. Then you can get nicer cogs, if you feel like it.
 
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