[Prognosticator]

I am trying to remove SRAM XO carbon crank with Dub bottom bracket so I can change to an oval chainring. I have watched YouTube. One guy says that the fastener is tightened to 54NM so it can be a bear. I have tried everything to loosen it -- including extension for additional leverage -- to the point that I'm afraid I will damage the cranks or bike.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

 

[Jayem]

I am trying to remove SRAM XO carbon crank with Dub bottom bracket so I can change to an oval chainring. I have watched YouTube. One guy says that the fastener is tightened to 54NM so it can be a bear. I have tried everything to loosen it -- including extension for additional leverage -- to the point that I'm afraid I will damage the cranks or bike.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

Take pedal off, PVC pipe for the crank arm. PVC pipe over breaker bar (2 PVC pipes).

 

[J.B. Weld]

I am trying to remove SRAM XO carbon crank with Dub bottom bracket so I can change to an oval chainring. I have watched YouTube. One guy says that the fastener is tightened to 54NM so it can be a bear. I have tried everything to loosen it -- including extension for additional leverage -- to the point that I'm afraid I will damage the cranks or bike.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

A bigger cheater bar? Seriously I've had to really get on it to break some of them loose. Make sure the 8mm hex is fully engaged and go for it like you really mean it. Don't allow it to defeat you, it will break loose.

 

[deoreo]

In my opinion the best tool for this job is an impact wrench.
Something like this:

7 Amp, 1/2 in. Impact Wrench with Rocker Switch

Amazing deals on this 7A 1/2In Electric Impact Wrench With Rocker at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

You don't even need the chain on the bike. Just hold the crankarm, and a few quick bursts with the wrench, and it will come off in a very easy controlled manner.

Even with an extra long breaker bar there is so much force to break it free I worry about damaging the frame, or slipping when it does break free.

I have the exact wrench as above and have used it a number of times now on various bikes. Works perfectly.

 

[Prognosticator]

A bigger cheater bar? Seriously I've had to really get on it to break some of them loose. Make sure the 8mm hex is fully engaged and go for it like you really mean it. Don't allow it to defeat you, it will break loose.

So I need to take in personally! I get it. But I am afraid!

 

[Prognosticator]

Even with an extra long breaker bar there is so much force to break it free I worry about damaging the frame, or slipping when it does break free.

This is where my mind's at.

 

[the last biker]

I am trying to remove SRAM XO carbon crank with Dub bottom bracket so I can change to an oval chainring. I have watched YouTube. One guy says that the fastener is tightened to 54NM so it can be a bear. I have tried everything to loosen it -- including extension for additional leverage -- to the point that I'm afraid I will damage the cranks or bike.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

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This is very true, it happened to me with two bikes ,in both remove cranks with the two PVC pipes,then I reinstalled them, but at a lower but effective torque, without problems since then.

 

[J.B. Weld]

So I need to take in personally! I get it. But I am afraid!

Taking it personally is the most important part, the crank can sense weakness.

No need to worry about damaging anything but you do need to apply the leverage correctly, kind of hard to explain but if you have the crank and wrench/cheater bar in the right position they will work with each other. For sure I recommend torqueing that bolt to spec when you re-install it.

 

[Prognosticator]

It ain't happening. I removed pedal, three-foot 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe on crank arm braced to the garage floor, 780mm handlebar over 8mm steel allen wrench, imagined it as the kid I lost to in the state wrestling championship -- didn't budge.

This is a three-week old Ripley that was built by a shop about 1.5 hours from me. I might take it back and see if they can do it.

For now, I guess I'll have to ride myself into stronger shape so maybe I won't need the AB oval chainring

 

[Blatant]

Attach NDS crank arm to NDS chain stay. I use a big strip of Velcro. This allows you to get both arms on your 3-foot breaker bar. Don’t be skerred to drop some torque on that thing. It’ll break loose with a big unpleasant bang.

 

[Mike Aswell]

Oval has its place but unless it's less teeth it isn't going to be a huge difference anyway.

The impact driver is a reasonable suggestion and everyone should have one.

If you're really careful you can whack a ratchet with a hammer while holding the crank arm. As others have said you just need the force to break it free.

 

[Jayem]

It ain't happening. I removed pedal, three-foot 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe on crank arm braced to the garage floor, 780mm handlebar over 8mm steel allen wrench, imagined it as the kid I lost to in the state wrestling championship -- didn't budge.

This is a three-week old Ripley that was built by a shop about 1.5 hours from me. I might take it back and see if they can do it.

For now, I guess I'll have to ride myself into stronger shape so maybe I won't need the AB oval chainring

Thought you were using a breaker bar? I would not be attempting this without a breaker bar. IME this is an important part.

But yeah, if it's not coming, it's time for an impact wrench.

 

[J.B. Weld]

Thought you were using a breaker bar? I would not be attempting this without a breaker bar. IME this is an important part.

But yeah, if it's not coming, it's time for an impact wrench.

I think he was using a handlebar as a breaker bar, 780mm should be sufficient.

 

[kevine1785]

I'm

I am trying to remove SRAM XO carbon crank with Dub bottom bracket so I can change to an oval chainring. I have watched YouTube. One guy says that the fastener is tightened to 54NM so it can be a bear. I have tried everything to loosen it -- including extension for additional leverage -- to the point that I'm afraid I will damage the cranks or bike.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

i know you said you watched a YouTube video... Did you see this one:

Make sure you loosen the set bolts first
Make sure bike is off any stand and firmly on the ground
Get a friend to help hold the other crank with a larger piece of ABS pipe
Breaker bar or bust!

 

[Boner Champ]

Here's how I do it - with the non-drive side leaning against a wall, I position the drive side crank somewhere between 2-3 o'clock and arm of the 8mm allen somehwere between 9-10 o'clock. With the bike balanced against the wall, I hold the rear brake, step onto the right pedal with my right foot, and left foot onto the allen - from here, I unweight my body, then jump down with as much sudden force as I can. It usually takes a few tries, but it always works.

If I didn't have it too tight, first thing I try is to do it by hand. I position the arm of the 8mm allen ~inline with the NDS crank, or slightly clockwise of it when viewed from the drive side. You can do this part the other way around, but I lean over the bike and hold the NDS crank/pedal with my right hand and allen with my left - from here, I push the allen away from myself, and pull the NDS crank towards myself. This one usually works for me, but if it doesn't, my jump method always does.

 

[spaightlabs]

This is a message from god to save your money and not instal the biopace chain ring.

 

[Prognosticator]

Ha ha!

It was only a matter of time before someone commented on the oval chainring. And, yes, it is a smaller chain ring to boot.

I have been using the handlebar as the breaker bar. I don't own a real breaker bar. I might give it another shot today. It was getting late for me and I didn't want to screw something up for lack of clear thinking.

Just to clarify: I'm no neophyte. I have been mountain biking since the 90s, wrenching that whole time, and can count on one hand the number of times I've had to take my bike to my LBS.

 

[Prognosticator]

I'm

i know you said you watched a YouTube video... Did you see this one:

Make sure you loosen the set bolts first
Make sure bike is off any stand and firmly on the ground
Get a friend to help hold the other crank with a larger piece of ABS pipe
Breaker bar or bust!

This is the first video I watched. And I have watched others. I am going to question the veracity of this video only because everyone here, and everyone on the interweb, says that the crank bolt makes a horrifying sound when it breaks loose. This fine bloke's doesn't make a peep, which leads me to believe either his wasn't as tight, or maybe, just maybe, there was a bit of editing going on on this video.

 

[Prognosticator]

There is this one, too:

In this one, the bolt makes the expected sound. But I don't have frame straightening tool.

 

[Mark K]

Ha ha!

It was only a matter of time before someone commented on the oval chainring. And, yes, it is a smaller chain ring to boot.

I have been using the handlebar as the breaker bar. I don't own a real breaker bar. I might give it another shot today. It was getting late for me and I didn't want to screw something up for lack of clear thinking.

Just to clarify: I'm no neophyte. I have been mountain biking since the 90s, wrenching that whole time, and can count on one hand the number of times I've had to take my bike to my LBS.

I had similar issues until I picked up a breaker bar from Harbor Freight - I've now changed chainrings on at least half a dozen bikes without fail.

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