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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can't shift in my 11t seem like not enough spring to get it there…

I took apart the B-Bolt and viewed the wavy spring, assuming this is suppose to give me the tension I need to shift to my 11t? There is no tension in the B-bolt; I’m not too sure how the spring works. Im assuming there is a lib on the bolt the spring is suppose to seat into to give the tension?

I see there is replacement parts for the B-Bolt etc. has anyone replaced this on there derailleur.

Thanks!
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
More inspection to the derailleur maybe it’s the main spring that’s weak. It’s just not smooth in the joints also.

Anyway I greased up the wagged off it’s just not happy.

I hate to crap out this deraillure its practically new…

Still would like to know about the tension on the B-Bolt, if there is any.

Thanks/
 

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sram derailleur do not pivot on the mounting point like shimano derailleurs do. try adjusting the H screw instead to move the limits of the parallelogram. look up derailleur tuning on the park tool site or sheldon brown's site.
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, my H screws are set correctly, I think it’s the main spring, and the joints it,s not smooth at all. I’m gonna see it I can get it replaced somehow… I see others have had the same problem.
Thanks for checkin me out.
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
JSumner13 said:
How old is your cable housing?
The cable is new the housing is ok I greased everythingfrome the shifter down, the cable is slack when I try to shift to the 11t. I move the der. or just touch it it will shift to the 11t...

How easy is it to replace the main spring, or should i go oldskool and put a bass worm on it Heh!
 

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DeadWeight said:
The cable is new the housing is ok I greased everythingfrome the shifter down, the cable is slack when I try to shift to the 11t. I move the der. or just touch it it will shift to the 11t...

How easy is it to replace the main spring, or should i go oldskool and put a bass worm on it Heh!
I have the same problem with my x9. It won't shift smoothly (or at all in some cases) into smaller cogs. Seems that that pivots are very sticky. Frustrating since this derailleur has only 5 or 6 rides on it. I've tried cleaning and lubing it but that hasn't done anything. It's basically unrideable. I know this isn't helpful, but at least you aren't alone with this problem.:)
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Peat said:
I have the same problem with my x9. It won't shift smoothly (or at all in some cases) into smaller cogs. Seems that that pivots are very sticky. Frustrating since this derailleur has only 5 or 6 rides on it. I've tried cleaning and lubing it but that hasn't done anything. It's basically unrideable. I know this isn't helpful, but at least you aren't alone with this problem.:)
That's it, I m going to degreases the derailleur and see if it loosens it up. Sticky is a good word in what it happening I've had the derailleur for a while (4-5 months) and this just started 5 rides ago and has gotten worse.

It makes me think the pens in the joints are swelled up like cheap metal of some sort, just trying to figure this out. :madman:
 

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MTBR Member
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Have you tried using a light oil on the pivot points of the derailleur? Get some oil on the pivot points and work it in there by manually shifting the derailleur.
 

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I had the exact same problem. All adjustments were fine but insufficient spring strength, or too much friction to shift to the smallest cog without a little nudge. Removed it and thoroughly cleaned by soaking in mineral spirits, relubed, to no avail. Still seemed sluggish to fully retract. I have an X7 on another bike that snaps back to the "normal" position. I've crashed a few times so perhaps something was out of whack even though everything looked fine. I spent hours trying to fix a seemingly simple problem of not shifting to the smallest cog. Ultimately, there's no adjustment that can overcome a weak spring.

Reluctantly, I purchased a new X9 and all is well.
 

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I have one doing the same thing. I sometimes can't hit the second smallest cog either. I've lubed it and worked it by hand. The other day I put a thing washer between the deraileur and hanger. I now consistently get all the gears except the smallest, sometimes I do sometimes I don't. It is just as described, like the spring isn't strong enough, touch it and it goes.
 

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Any of you have the DR hanger checked by a shop? It can be slightly off and isn't visible just by looking at it. What about over-adjusting the limit screw to see what it does then and going from there? Does it drop down then?
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ALS650L said:
I have one doing the same thing. I sometimes can't hit the second smallest cog either. I've lubed it and worked it by hand. The other day I put a thing washer between the deraileur and hanger. I now consistently get all the gears except the smallest, sometimes I do sometimes I don't. It is just as described, like the spring isn't strong enough, touch it and it goes.
I might try the washer to get me by, and see what SRAM customer service can do for me… Heh.

Man would love to pop my XT on there, however SRAM shifters got a great feel to them.

Going to plop the derailleur in some cleaner and use some lite oil that was suggested.
Then light it on fire and stomp it out :D
 

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One Gear
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Sram suggests 6mm of clearance between the upper jockey wheel of the deraileur and the largest cog on the rear cassette. Have you tried decreasing the tension on the B-tension screw? By decreasing the tension (turning the screw out) shifting should improve. The screw is not designed to tension the chain, just position the jockey wheels for optimal shifting. The chain could be too long as well.

Good luck
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
.40AET said:
Sram suggests 6mm of clearance between the upper jockey wheel of the deraileur and the largest cog on the rear cassette. Have you tried decreasing the tension on the B-tension screw? By decreasing the tension (turning the screw out) shifting should improve. The screw is not designed to tension the chain, just position the jockey wheels for optimal shifting. The chain could be too long as well.

Good luck
I thought at first the B-bolt and setscrew etc. would get me closer to the 11t, the washer idea would help (Above post^^). After doing a good cleaning an oiling I had hopes this might have fixed it. It seems that the joints are compromising the return so that being said I can only assume the derailleur was hit somewhere or faulty material…

Thanks man!
 

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I've fiddled around with mine a fair amount too. It's in the joints. When shifted to the smallest rear cog the cable goes slack and the derailuer moves a touch, but not far enough to make the shift. If you give the deraileur a little nudge it will go the rest of the way. The only thing I haven't tried is to shorten my chain. I went from 3x9 to 2x9 and didn't change chain length. Seems many people don't do that though.
 

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I am on my second X9 and have not had this issue. One thing I have noticed though is that you have to set the outside stop past the smallest cog a little ways or it won't shift in easy.
 

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Positively negative
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.40AET said:
Sram suggests 6mm of clearance between the upper jockey wheel of the deraileur and the largest cog on the rear cassette. Have you tried decreasing the tension on the B-tension screw? By decreasing the tension (turning the screw out) shifting should improve. The screw is not designed to tension the chain, just position the jockey wheels for optimal shifting. The chain could be too long as well.

Good luck
They screwed the pooch on the 2010 models and won't admit it but in most cases you can not adjust the B to their spec without reducing the total capacity by roughly 4 teeth (ie: not enough for a 22-44, 11-34 standard MTB setup).

I have talked at length about this with John Barnett and he tells me Sram is choosing to ignore him, and the issue, knowing that they made the proper changes to the 2011 models (notice they went back to the old style cable routing) but while still selling the flawed 2010 stock. Basically Sram is screwing everyone who buys this derailer and they know it.

And as far as the sticky piviots/weak spring/H limit issue goes, I have personally experienced it with two derailers on my own bike. They are garbage. I am Barnett's certified and have worked in shops for over 10 years and can't make them work as well as the alternatives. With this and the forced obsolescence of 9 speed in mind I have decided to make the switch to Shimano, and have basically stopped selling and recommending most Sram stuff.

I would encourage you to contact Sram and demand a replacement. They are going to catch hell from me at Interbike.
 

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Graphic Violence
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
big_papa_nuts said:
They screwed the pooch on the 2010 models and won't admit it but in most cases you can not adjust the B to their spec without reducing the total capacity by roughly 4 teeth (ie: not enough for a 22-44, 11-34 standard MTB setup).

I have talked at length about this with John Barnett and he tells me Sram is choosing to ignore him, and the issue, knowing that they made the proper changes to the 2011 models (notice they went back to the old style cable routing) but while still selling the flawed 2010 stock. Basically Sram is screwing everyone who buys this derailer and they know it.

And as far as the sticky piviots/weak spring/H limit issue goes, I have personally experienced it with two derailers on my own bike. They are garbage. I am Barnett's certified and have worked in shops for over 10 years and can't make them work as well as the alternatives. With this and the forced obsolescence of 9 speed in mind I have decided to make the switch to Shimano, and have basically stopped selling and recommending most Sram stuff.

I would encourage you to contact Sram and demand a replacement. They are going to catch hell from me at Interbike.
Any updated contact info for SRAM, from what I hear they don't like to be bothered by us "laymen" 0_O.

Just got a new x9 works great for now, if this junk asses out im gonna lose it! You know, you can just tell it's not up to speed…
 

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DeadWeight said:
Any updated contact info for SRAM, from what I hear they don't like to be bothered by us "laymen" 0_O.

Just got a new x9 works great for now, if this junk asses out im gonna lose it! You know, you can just tell it's not up to speed…
I'd just call them (312)664-8800, how they handle you call should be a representation of how much they care about your business.
 
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