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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was excited to see Wolftooth's CAMO system supported the SRAM X-SYNC spider with a new Shimano 12-speed Hyperglide+ chain ring. Seeing that gave me the go ahead to order the new 12s XT components (sans cranks).

Building up my bike today and turns out the WT CAMO is too fat (bolts get stuck and I unfortunately gouged my rig) and anyone with an Evil boost spaced bike is probably going to have issues due to the tight tolerances of their BB/Chainstay area.

Absolute Black's site said they're making them, but no date is given.

Are there any other solutions?

I used a grinder to try to thin a bolt head as much as possible to test, but it isn't going to work. The gap between ring and chain stay is only a few millimeters.

My cranks are the Ti eeWings, so you can understand my distress. I love those cranks, but I'm up a creek at the moment.
 

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I have been in touch with most of the aftermarket chainring companies lately, trying to prod them to make a 28t chainring for my RF CINCH cranks.

The OneUp Switch system might be an option for you, but word from them is that it'll be some time before they have any Shimano 12spd rings available for it. They're the only company who hasn't outright said they won't be making a 28t ring, also.

Real bummer that the options for you with the eeWings cranks are so limited right now.

Might be necessary to either buy a shimano crank or an inexpensive RF crank for the meantime to get your bike on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think I might have a solution: thread from the other side using reverse thread fasteners.

If you look at the below images, the CAMO system threads from both sides to accommodate all the different options.

trying to source reverse threaded (left hand tighten) button head hex or torx fasteners (bolts) in M5x8 size. Trying to find a high grade steel option. Amazon had some low grade versions that I don't trust.

Found some on Ali Express via China, but shipping time is long.

Hope this works…


 

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I suppose if it's the bolt heads on the spider/ring interface creating the clearance issues you're having, this is one way of going about it. Moving the chainline will probably create issues for you, though.

I thought that your clearance issue was with the 3 bolts that hold the spider onto the crank arm, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sorry, it is the 5 chainring bolts that is hitting the inside. I'll add that.

Ordered some cheap-o reversed threaded bolts to test that will arrive tomorrow.

When I remove the chainring bolt (that currently threads from inside to the outside like the bottom photo), it spins freely. I'm trying to get to the outside to the inside like the top photo on top by using left thread bolts.

Should be able to preserve the proper boost chain line. If it works…
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
never mind, no threads on the chainring. All the threads are in the spider. Since I intended to thread from the other side, there will be nothing to hold onto.

I'm officially at an impasse. :madman:

Maybe I can find a welder to permanently bond them together?
 

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never mind, no threads on the chainring. All the threads are in the spider. Since I intended to thread from the other side, there will be nothing to hold onto.

I'm officially at an impasse. :madman:

Maybe I can find a welder to permanently bond them together?
I'm confused. I thought you were going to try installing your chainring as in the picture above with the bolt heads towards the outside? The more I visualize this, the more it seems to me like you don't need reverse-threaded bolts to do it.
 

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I agree with Harold and 006...threads will be the same no matter which side you go into threaded hole from.

Regarding issue with no threads on chainring...you could tap the chainring holes to accept slightly bigger diameter bolts, then bore out the existing threaded spider holes. This would allow you to run new bolts through crank spider the from outside in and size bolts to ensure no overhang beyond inside face of chainring once they are torqued.
 

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Are there any other solutions?

I used a grinder to try to thin a bolt head as much as possible to test, but it isn't going to work. The gap between ring and chain stay is only a few millimeters.

My cranks are the Ti eeWings, so you can understand my distress. I love those cranks, but I'm up a creek at the moment.
Does your setup use any crank spindle spacers? How well centered are the cranks in the frame, is the distance from the crank arm to the chainstay the same on each side? It may be that you can add spacers on the drive side to create a bit more room for those bolt heads if it doesn't put things too out of center.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for the suggestions.

@Veldonata definitely considered adding an additional spacer on the drive side. Could grind 2 or 3mm off the heads of the bolts to shorten them in addition. Tbf, I paused on the bike build due to this, so could install the chain and spacer and see if the shifting suffers. It might be that easy.

everything worked no problem before, so never had to worry about clearance issues.

@sturge the bolts that fit are M5x8 bolts, in my attached photo below, you can see there isn't a lot of material, guessing about 2mm around the hole. I've never tapped threads before, what size bore would you recommend?

Bicycle part Bicycle drivetrain part Gear Crankset Metal
 
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