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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Upgrading an old bike and went with this cassette on the old HG Shimano hub (m475). I put the back wheel on and spun it. Noticed the cogs seemed out of true...much like a out of true rim would look.

Took the wheel and cassette off, put it back on and retighted to 40 NM. Problem is now the hub is slightly bound. If I loosen the hub spins freely but then the cogs are slightly loose. Not sure what to do.
 

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On your specific hub when you fitted the cassette and tightened the lockring to 40Nm it shouldn't have any effect whatsoever on making anything bind.

If the cassette has a wobble or is 'out of true' it's possible there is some dirt or grit where the inboard side of the cassette seats onto the freehub.

Alternatively the freehub body itself has the wobble. I've owned that type of hub/freehub and mine did have a small amount of play that comes from within the inaccessible freehub body bearings.

The binding could be the hub's outer cup and cone bearings have been over pre tensioned and then tightening the quick release skewer flexes the axle and adds even more pre tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On your specific hub when you fitted the cassette and tightened the lockring to 40Nm it shouldn't have any effect whatsoever on making anything bind.

If the cassette has a wobble or is 'out of true' it's possible there is some dirt or grit where the inboard side of the cassette seats onto the freehub.

Alternatively the freehub body itself has the wobble. I've owned that type of hub/freehub and mine did have a small amount of play that comes from within the inaccessible freehub body bearings.

The binding could be the hub's outer cup and cone bearings have been over pre tensioned and then tightening the quick release skewer flexes the axle and adds even more pre tension.
I should have clarified that the hub, while old in age is new as far as use...maybe 20 miles on it mostly pavement.
Unfortunately I can feel the drag just spinning the cassette by hand off the bike. The old cassette didn’t do this so I’m perplexed.
 

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Ah I see why you are perplexed. As we're both thinking along the same lines it is strange and also can't see a reason for the drag either so far.

Does the cassette have clearance between the inboard side (big cog) and the hub itself? Maybe a few pics could help?
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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Is this one of the freehubs that requires the Shimano 1.85mm spacer when using a mountain cassette?

If it is, without that spacer you will have this issue.
 

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It's a fair point and could make a difference?

Funnily enough I have a Hope Pro 4 hub. My hub is fitted with a longer road standard freehub body which is the reason mine requires a 1.85mm spacer fitted. On my set up this mearly allows my 11speed mtb cassette to tighten properly before the lockring bottoms out.
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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Exactly. If the spacer is missing and the freehub is the longer, road style it will not allow the mountain cassette to actually tighten.

Stans freehubs are also like this.
 

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Exactly. If the spacer is missing and the freehub is the longer, road style it will not allow the mountain cassette to actually tighten.

Stans freehubs are also like this.


That doesn't explain the hub binding up when the cassette lockring is tightened.

The op is unclear to me. Is the cassette loose or does it wobble when the wheel spins? Or both? A wobbly cassette when the wheel is spinning is pretty normal and more noticeable with a giant cassette. The freehub binding when the lockring is tightened is weird. I've seen that happen on sealed bearing hubs but not on a cup & cone Shimano one.
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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That doesn't explain the hub binding up when the cassette lockring is tightened.

The op is unclear to me. Is the cassette loose or does it wobble when the wheel spins? Or both? A wobbly cassette when the wheel is spinning is pretty normal and more noticeable with a giant cassette. The freehub binding when the lockring is tightened is weird. I've seen that happen on sealed bearing hubs but not on a cup & cone Shimano one.
My guess, him over-tightening the cassette is somehow binding the cup and cone bearings in the hub?
 

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My guess, him over-tightening the cassette is somehow binding the cup and cone bearings in the hub?


Cassette lockrings take ~40nm of torque so it's very hard to over tighten them. From the op, which I mentioned I'm unclear on, it seems that the freehub binds when tightening the lockring, not the hub bearings. In any case it's odd because on a shimano hub (actually any hub) how tight you torque the lockring should have no effect on either of those things.
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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Cassette lockrings take ~40nm of torque so it's very hard to over tighten them. From the op, which I mentioned I'm unclear on, it seems that the freehub binds when tightening the lockring, not the hub bearings. In any case it's odd because on a shimano hub (actually any hub) how tight you torque the lockring should have no effect on either of those things.
But if the lockring is bottoming out on the freehub body and not the cassette, could that apply pressure to places its not supposed to within the freehub?

Possibly even the lockring making contact with the outboard bearings?
 

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But if the lockring is bottoming out on the freehub body and not the cassette, could that apply pressure to places its not supposed to within the freehub?

Possibly even the lockring making contact with the outboard bearings?


Nope, you could tighten the lockring to 100nm without the cassette on and the freehub and hub bearings should still spin freely.
 

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I'd say even if a lockring bottoms out it would only contact the other edge of the freehub body anyway. Any freehub bearings, internal dust seal and locking collar is pre set and won't be altered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the replies so far. This is the exact hub on the wheel. It came stock from Cannondale 15 years ago on my Rush so I assumed it is a proper MTB hub.
I it may be more accurate to describe this a “drag” rather than binding.
After I tightened the cassette on the first time I noticed the cassette had a bit of drag. When I mounted it I was spinning the wheel by hand to adjust the brakes and noticed the cogs on the cassette looked like they weren’t trued up. Much like a rim that would need to be trued up. I didn’t understand that this could be considered normal so I took it off and removed and retightened the cassette. Now the drag seems worse. I wish I could post a video of me spinning the cassette by hand. It makes about one rotation then stops.
1925746
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Possible the two rows of tiny bearings, the internal pawl and drivering all housed within the freehub body are dry, rusty and basically past their best.

Doubt you have accidentally tightened the outer axle nut as that should be locked in tight with the cone nut behind. Unless the cone and locking nut we're loose beforehand and on the off chance you could have over tightened those axle nuts it would just make the whole rear wheel bind/drag and not just the freehub.
 

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Could I have somehow righted the hub axle nut when tightening the cassette?


That might be possible (though unlikely) if the locknut and cone weren't tightened together but even if that were the case it wouldn't slow the spinning of the cassette, just the wheel itself.

The cassette should spin just as freely with the lockring completely tight as it does when completely loose. That yours doesn't means something is wrong but I can't think of what that might be now.
 

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Op, up top you said that you loosened the lock ring a touch and it freed things up. I'm curious if your new cassette is fouling on the actual hub slightly. I haven't read every post so forgive me if I missed something in the comments from anyone.

Take this one off and put the old one back on to see if the problem persists or if the issue is related to the new cassette.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Op, up top you said that you loosened the lock ring a touch and it freed things up. I'm curious if your new cassette is fouling on the actual hub slightly. I haven't read every post so forgive me if I missed something in the comments from anyone.

Take this one off and put the old one back on to see if the problem persists or if the issue is related to the new cassette.
I’m going to try that to determine I didn’t do anything in the change over process. But before I switched the cassettes the old one spun perfectly.
 

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I’m going to try that to determine I didn’t do anything in the change over process. But before I switched the cassettes the old one spun perfectly.
Yes, do that first to see what the playing field is. I'm betting that you didn't do anything, and there is something going on with that hub and newer cassette interface. But gotta start investigating to suss out the issue.

You are able to remove the hub body and lube it if need be. Takes special tool to remove the bearing cup in the hub body, but Shimano's are (or at least were) good for that. But seriously doubt it's even needed, based on the low miles you said the hub has.
 
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