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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Morning!

Had an issue with 2 different guide levers. Can't bleed either lever. Different models, guide T and guide RS, both latest version post previous internal issues

When I pulled the RS lever apart it has a red plug on the end of the spring which seems to be blocking the flow of fluid when they are bled

Any idea on why this is present in the internals? Not on the parts diagram and I bet if I remove it and replace the spring the levers will bleed fine

Some OEM modification or needs the be bled at a certain pressure????

Any ideas or insight?

See attached pics


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finger Red Bicycle tire Nail Carmine


found this pic

this is the link:

https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/how-to-install-brake-hose-for-sram-guide-using-stealth-a-magij-system.275236/

Looks like its an OEM system to help with internal routing. I'm assuming the olive on the end of the hose is different than standard to mate with the red stealth a majig internals of the OEM lever. So system doesn't work with standard hose barb. This makes sense as the 2 levers I was trying to bleed were rear brakes and probably originally internally routed

Just going to remove the spring a stealth a majig and should bleed fine, what a PITA!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
think you can just push the red stealth a majig out of the way with a 2mm allen key, do the hose up, then bleed. I'll try with the guide T brakes that I can't pull apart
 

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found this pic

this is the link:

https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/how-to-install-brake-hose-for-sram-guide-using-stealth-a-magij-system.275236/

Looks like its an OEM system to help with internal routing. I'm assuming the olive on the end of the hose is different than standard to mate with the red stealth a majig internals of the OEM lever. So system doesn't work with standard hose barb. This makes sense as the 2 levers I was trying to bleed were rear brakes and probably originally internally routed

Just going to remove the spring a stealth a majig and should bleed fine, what a PITA!
I think youre right. Its gotta be something related to the way the hose attaches to the lever. How it actually works... no idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pushed the little red plunger to the side and the brakes bleed fine

Replace the internals of the RS and also good to go


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Does anyone know where I might score one of those little red plunger pieces? The exploded diagram attached above shows that the stealth-a-majig piston assembly is OEM only, meaning that it's not included in the lever internals assembly kit that you can buy aftermarket.

If anyone has any laying around or can point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anyone know where I might score one of those little red plunger pieces? The exploded diagram attached above shows that the stealth-a-majig piston assembly is OEM only, meaning that it's not included in the lever internals assembly kit that you can buy aftermarket.

If anyone has any laying around or can point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.
Why do you want one? You don't need it?

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sorry, can I get clarification: We DON'T need to keep that red cap on the end of the spring assembly when rebuilding the lever, EVEN IF the lever is marked "stealth-a-majig only"?

This is very confusing. That red cap is NOT included in any rebuilt kit, and not shown in the instruction videos. Stealth-a-majic line hardware (the red olive) is supposedly backward compatible with non-stealth systems as well. SO WHYYYYYYY
 

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sorry, can I get clarification: We DON'T need to keep that red cap on the end of the spring assembly when rebuilding the lever, EVEN IF the lever is marked "stealth-a-majig only"?

This is very confusing. That red cap is NOT included in any rebuilt kit, and not shown in the instruction videos. Stealth-a-majic line hardware (the red olive) is supposedly backward compatible with non-stealth systems as well. SO WHYYYYYYY
Hi did you resolve this, I have a stealthamajig code rsc back brake that's sloppy on return even after bleeding. I understand that the strealthamajig is backwards compatible so do you just buy the regular service kit? Cheers
 

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Hi did you resolve this, I have a stealthamajig code rsc back brake that's sloppy on return even after bleeding. I understand that the strealthamajig is backwards compatible so do you just buy the regular service kit? Cheers
I am in the same predicament. Slow lever return issue, so i did the lever body rebuild on my rear lever that is labeled "Stealthamajig only" and got to replacing the piston assembly with the one from 11.5018.005.011 and notice that the new one looks different than the stealthamajig one and specifically does not include the little red piece at the end. I rebuilt the lever body without the red piece and just using the new piston assembly/spring piece from 11.5018.005.011 and it rebuilds fine and seems like it is good. So I am about to put the new line on and reconnect it to the caliper, but first I decide to call Sram and ask to verify all is good like I expect it is. Dude says that you must keep the little red piece in there and all other pieces get replaced with the new version from 11.5018.005.011.

I disagree and do not think there would be room for it with the whole new piston assembly. Nor do I want to do the lever service again. I will just proceed to warranty the dang thing and get a whole new lever body sent to me rather than messing around with this anymore. But anyway, if anyone does have the official answer, please let us know here.

He said to just follow the service manual and do it exactly as it says there. I kept telling him it makes no mention of the little red piece except showing it in the exploded view in lighter grey to signify it was an OEM only option. He said in that case you keep the little piece and replace any service parts needed from the 11.5018.005.011 kit. I told him the piston assembly looks different, he said no worries just use it and jam it all in there with the red piece. I don't think that is right. I think that the whole new piston assembly replaces the old stealthamajig specific one (including red piece at the end) and by doing this you effectively make your brake into the regular non-stealthamajig version. Like I said I have given up and will let Sram honor the full warranty by just sending me new lever bodies for both of my brakes, but I am still curious what the actual answer to this is.
 

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I am in the same predicament. Slow lever return issue, so i did the lever body rebuild on my rear lever that is labeled "Stealthamajig only" and got to replacing the piston assembly with the one from 11.5018.005.011 and notice that the new one looks different than the stealthamajig one and specifically does not include the little red piece at the end. I rebuilt the lever body without the red piece and just using the new piston assembly/spring piece from 11.5018.005.011 and it rebuilds fine and seems like it is good. So I am about to put the new line on and reconnect it to the caliper, but first I decide to call Sram and ask to verify all is good like I expect it is. Dude says that you must keep the little red piece in there and all other pieces get replaced with the new version from 11.5018.005.011.

I disagree and do not think there would be room for it with the whole new piston assembly. Nor do I want to do the lever service again. I will just proceed to warranty the dang thing and get a whole new lever body sent to me rather than messing around with this anymore. But anyway, if anyone does have the official answer, please let us know here.

He said to just follow the service manual and do it exactly as it says there. I kept telling him it makes no mention of the little red piece except showing it in the exploded view in lighter grey to signify it was an OEM only option. He said in that case you keep the little piece and replace any service parts needed from the 11.5018.005.011 kit. I told him the piston assembly looks different, he said no worries just use it and jam it all in there with the red piece. I don't think that is right. I think that the whole new piston assembly replaces the old stealthamajig specific one (including red piece at the end) and by doing this you effectively make your brake into the regular non-stealthamajig version. Like I said I have given up and will let Sram honor the full warranty by just sending me new lever bodies for both of my brakes, but I am still curious what the actual answer to this is.
Yep I found this in a post from Sram Techincal Univerity on FB.. I have rebuilt the lever without the Stealthamajig using the standard service kit (haven't fitted it yet thou), it makes more sense after reading the following. Cheers

"SRAM Technical University Hi Justin Fraga
The red plunger you are referring to is specific to the Stealthamajig(SJ) system and is what allows the hose to be removed and not have liquid leave the lever; the red plug is spring actuated and closes the port upon hose removal.

These SJ Levers must be used with the SJ specific barb and olive(compression fitting); this is what is discussed in this post above.
Other users who have issues not being able to bleed or move fluid past this red plug on their SJ lever bodies are likely not using the correct olive, which is designed to open this red plug and allow fluid to pass. Use of the old olive will not allow the brake to operate, the designs are different.

If you need to perform a lever piston replacement, the non-OEM, standard piston assembly available in the Spare Parts Catalog can be installed into an SJ specific Lever body.
You do not need to swap the red plug onto the standard piston assembly as the standard piston assembly is not designed to accept this additional piece.
Please keep in mind, that when switching to the standard, non-SJ piston assembly, the lever will not close when the hose is removed. This change to the lever will require a brake bleed whenever removing the hose from the lever, same as any standard, non-SJ brake lever."
 

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Yep I found this in a post from Sram Techincal Univerity on FB..
"SRAM Technical University
If you need to perform a lever piston replacement, the non-OEM, standard piston assembly available in the Spare Parts Catalog can be installed into an SJ specific Lever body.
You do not need to swap the red plug onto the standard piston assembly as the standard piston assembly is not designed to accept this additional piece.
Please keep in mind, that when switching to the standard, non-SJ piston assembly, the lever will not close when the hose is removed. This change to the lever will require a brake bleed whenever removing the hose from the lever, same as any standard, non-SJ brake lever."[/I]
There it is. thanks for sharing that!
 

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Yep I found this in a post from Sram Techincal Univerity on FB.. I have rebuilt the lever without the Stealthamajig using the standard service kit (haven't fitted it yet thou), it makes more sense after reading the following. Cheers

"SRAM Technical University Hi Justin Fraga
The red plunger you are referring to is specific to the Stealthamajig(SJ) system and is what allows the hose to be removed and not have liquid leave the lever; the red plug is spring actuated and closes the port upon hose removal.

These SJ Levers must be used with the SJ specific barb and olive(compression fitting); this is what is discussed in this post above.
Other users who have issues not being able to bleed or move fluid past this red plug on their SJ lever bodies are likely not using the correct olive, which is designed to open this red plug and allow fluid to pass. Use of the old olive will not allow the brake to operate, the designs are different.

If you need to perform a lever piston replacement, the non-OEM, standard piston assembly available in the Spare Parts Catalog can be installed into an SJ specific Lever body.
You do not need to swap the red plug onto the standard piston assembly as the standard piston assembly is not designed to accept this additional piece.
Please keep in mind, that when switching to the standard, non-SJ piston assembly, the lever will not close when the hose is removed. This change to the lever will require a brake bleed whenever removing the hose from the lever, same as any standard, non-SJ brake lever."
Here in 2022, I bought new take off Code RSCs from someone a year ago and finally got to installing them and noticed a stuck rear lever. It seems like all I have to do it use the ubiquitous red SRAM stealthamajig and barb as I did on my regular non-oem Code RSCs right? It sounds like the red piece on the plunger will get pushed back when I tighten the compression fitting?
 

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Here in 2022, I bought new take off Code RSCs from someone a year ago and finally got to installing them and noticed a stuck rear lever. It seems like all I have to do it use the ubiquitous red SRAM stealthamajig and barb as I did on my regular non-oem Code RSCs right? It sounds like the red piece on the plunger will get pushed back when I tighten the compression fitting?
Some of the contortions in this thread bothers me.

Keeping the existing components unchanged and disassembling, light sanding of the existing master cylinder piston, and re-assembling in reverse order is so simple on the RSC's (Guide, G2 and Code) it can be done in under 30 minutes per lever including the bleed once you've done a couple. Certainly, compared to rebuilding a Shimano servo wave lever (and they also suffer from swollen pistons eventually - but Shimano brakes usually start leaking before the piston gets sticky) it's almost child's play.

Here is a methodical video showing how it all fits together and lever rebuild where a Stealth-a-majig plug is used (it could be red or silver).

This is a good video of the strip-sand-build procedure, and here's a more gung-ho one. Straight-up piston replacement here.

The Code RSC and Guide RSC lever internals are identical, the same part numbers. I usually wrap a piece of 200grit sandpaper around the piston and twist the piston inside the paper by hand, rather than use a drill or as some do - sanding a circular piston with the sandpaper on a flat surface.

SRAM's service guide is also a helpful read before starting, lever service starts on page 16.
 

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Some of the contortions in this thread bothers me.

Keeping the existing components unchanged and disassembling, light sanding of the existing master cylinder piston, and re-assembling in reverse order is so simple on the RSC's (Guide, G2 and Code) it can be done in under 30 minutes per lever including the bleed once you've done a couple. Certainly, compared to rebuilding a Shimano servo wave lever (and they also suffer from swollen pistons eventually - but Shimano brakes usually start leaking before the piston gets sticky) it's almost child's play.

Here is a methodical video showing how it all fits together and lever rebuild where a Stealth-a-majig plug is used (it could be red or silver).

This is a good video of the strip-sand-build procedure, and here's a more gung-ho one. Straight-up piston replacement here.

The Code RSC and Guide RSC lever internals are identical, the same part numbers. I usually wrap a piece of 200grit sandpaper around the piston and twist the piston inside the paper by hand, rather than use a drill or as some do - sanding a circular piston with the sandpaper on a flat surface.

SRAM's service guide is also a helpful read before starting, lever service starts on page 16.
Thanks for the reply and all the clarity Rete, what you are referring to is if someone needs to do a rebuild right?

In my case this is a new set of Code RSCS (OEM) that I want to install. My understanding is now in 2022 the only common SRAM olive that is out there anyways is the red asymmetrical one. And that as long as you use that in the right direction, the step casting of the shape is what will push back the red piston when tightening the compression fitting and thats it. Is that correct?
 

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Thanks for the reply and all the clarity Rete, what you are referring to is if someone needs to do a rebuild right?

In my case this is a new set of Code RSCS (OEM) that I want to install. My understanding is now in 2022 the only common SRAM olive that is out there anyways is the red asymmetrical one. And that as long as you use that in the right direction, the step casting of the shape is what will push back the red piston when tightening the compression fitting and thats it. Is that correct?
Yes, basically.

The red piston being the stealth-a-majig plug. Sometimes it can be silver. The Stealth-a-majig olive is always red. Olive is on the hose. Plug sits at the tip of the spring. Not all levers have the plug, the plug just stops fluid leaking when you remove the hose. When you peek into the lever where the hose compression fitting threads into you'll see whether you have the plug, or there's only a spring.

You can use the red stealth-a-majig olive with or without the stealth-a-majig plug that sits at the tip of the spring in some master cylinder pistons. It's also not the olive that sits against the plug and pushes it into the spring, it's the barb that is screwed into the red olive and into the hose that engages with it.

Look at the very first video I linked, approximately mid way to 2/3 through. You'll see how the plug (the silver metal fitting in that video) is installed into the lever at the tip of the spring, after that don't worry about it.
 
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