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Great to know. But some of the comments state that the narrow wide of the jockey wheels in the derailer don’t play nice with the shimano 12 speed chain?
I’ve gotten well over 2k miles without noticing any issues with the jockey wheels. I forgot to mention my brother did the same thing with his AXS and at the same time. No issues at all with shifting Between he two of us. Maybe when my cassette wears out, I’ll try Sram cassette.
 

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Great to know. But some of the comments state that the narrow wide of the jockey wheels in the derailer don’t play nice with the shimano 12 speed chain?
The HG+ chain has a heck of a lot of friction/ binding and noise with the AXS N/W jockey wheel. I grinded my wide tooths down a fair bit using hand tools and that plus another 50 miles or riding on it or so all was well.
I just don't notice any special shifting or anything however, but then I just have the Shimano chain, not the cassette.

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Great to know. But some of the comments state that the narrow wide of the jockey wheels in the derailer don’t play nice with the shimano 12 speed chain?
I was trying to work that out as on my bike there has been no noticeable issue with the meshing between the SRAM AXS narrow wide jockey wheels and Shimano XTR M9100 12 speed chain. The chain runs smoothly on the jockey wheels and has from the very beginning. I've had a few chains on there and no problems.

I've got a SRAM AXS XX1 rear mech. There is also the SRAM AXS X01 rear mech, maybe that's different somehow perhaps?
 

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Love the option to swap batteries between derailleur and post too. Besides a backup in the field (which I've needed once due to forgetting) I cycle between them weekly to minimize the charging of both batteries: swap post battery to derailleur, charge derailleur battery, put on post.
Something to watch out for if you're swapping the AXS batteries round frequently is that the battery design is the same as on the older SRAM Etap battery. The small plastic tab on the bottom of the removable battery is fragile and can snap off if you're not very careful when fitting and removing the batteries.


What I do is try and hold the battery in place whilst undoing the latch, so that it doesn't drop out by itself, to protect the plastic tab.
 

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That's troubling, I'll keep that in mind. I just rebuilt my mountain bike and now I'm going to rebuild my gravel/road bike with AXS. I'm thinking Force 1 brifters but a X01 AXS derailleur, giving me the option to go with a big cassette in the rear but also serving as a backup derailleur for the MTB. As far as I've read, there should be 100% compatibility between AXS road and MTB. My road wheels would be running a 10-32 or 10-36 cassette.

On my obsolete gravel wheelset I'd like to use a traditional spline driver (11 tooth) instead of XD, something like a NX PG-1230. I'd prefer a smaller cassette, be nice to see a (10)11-38 or (10)11-40 for gravel bikes.


Something to watch out for if you're swapping the AXS batteries round frequently is that the battery design is the same as on the older SRAM Etap battery. The small plastic tab on the bottom of the removable battery is fragile and can snap off if you're not very careful when fitting and removing the batteries.


What I do is try and hold the battery in place whilst undoing the latch, so that it doesn't drop out by itself, to protect the plastic tab.
 

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Something to watch out for if you're swapping the AXS batteries round frequently is that the battery design is the same as on the older SRAM Etap battery. The small plastic tab on the bottom of the removable battery is fragile and can snap off if you're not very careful when fitting and removing the batteries.


What I do is try and hold the battery in place whilst undoing the latch, so that it doesn't drop out by itself, to protect the plastic tab.
I'm not sure what 'frequently' is but I own 2 batteries and swap them about every week and leave the other on the charger in my rear console in my suv so it's always ready to go. I have never had an issue dropping one, and have not observed any wear on the tabs.

I'm not sure about the axs reverb, or the etap road/gravel applications, but on the axs mtb derailleur the battery kind of stays in place even after you unsnap it. It won't easily fall out when replacing it.
 

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The updated lever design is SO MUCH better than the original.
It's 90% perfect to me now (original was pretty bad) and once I get my TS brakes with the very small band clamp, I'll finally be able to position my AXS lever perfectly.

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I'm not sure what 'frequently' is but I own 2 batteries and swap them about every week and leave the other on the charger in my rear console in my suv so it's always ready to go. I have never had an issue dropping one, and have not observed any wear on the tabs.

I'm not sure about the axs reverb, or the etap road/gravel applications, but on the axs mtb derailleur the battery kind of stays in place even after you unsnap it. It won't easily fall out when replacing it.
In that Weightweenies thread I linked it seems to vary how long they last. The start of that thread is from way back in 2017 blaming it on a bad batch of batteries but then it's still an ongoing issue at September 2020. It's one of those things, like the loosening pivots on Didzy2009's AXS rear derailleur a few posts back, that might not happen to everyone but is worth being aware of as a possible issue as the drivetrain gets older. :)

The pictures of broken batteries in that thread give an idea of why they can potentially break at that point. If you look at the battery design it's a thin plastic tab on the bottom that sits in a metal slot on the rear derailleur. That plastic battery tab is unlikely to wear but it is thin and any twisting force, such as putting the battery in and out of the slot at an angle instead of sliding it in carefully, will put strain on the tab.

1909021
 

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Where does one buy the new paddles?


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I tried shifting with the new paddle to get a feel of it in one of my LBS and that side paddle sticking out jabs into the side of my thumb when it’s not on the paddle. I like the smoother contour of the main paddles, but I would take my Dremel to that little side paddle.
 

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Thanks for the link, ordered my rocker and just installed it, very clean and nice.

A bit of forced upgrade/late Xmas present, my Lightning Cranks broke and I just ordered new a XX1 Dub crankset. The AXS part of this discussion is the new Quarq AXS-enabled power meter that is coming with it, I'll be interested to see how that integrates into the app.

 

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I got a bike with axs yesterday. I have teo questions. One what are prople using to plug the frame ports and two why does sram suggest setting the limit screws up so wierd?
 

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I haven't tried the new shift paddle but I have always gotten on well with the original after some tinkering with the placement, both distance from my grip and the especially the angle of it.

And it looks to me like your thumb could easily slip off the new one, so if you find yourself shifting on fast, rocky trails, perhaps it's not the best. or perhaps it's wonderful? It's good to have the option.
 

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If anyone happens to like the original clicker, be happy to sell you mine for a reasonable cost.

Just ordered a new road bike, found a great deal on the Pro's Closet with 2x Red Etap AXS. I'd also considered a new Specialized Tarmac SL7 Pro with Force 1x AXS. I really wanted 1x AXS, with maybe the option to swap out the derailleur to X01, but I'll at least be able to share batteries and manage all of my shifting stats in the app.
 

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Got out on my first ride with axs the past weekend. Love the shifting its a game changer for me. But when descending the deraileur was very noisy compared to a standard eagle mech. Has anyonee else experienced this or have a solution? Its like since it has no cable the deraileur can pivot backwards very easily.
 

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Mmmm no I haven't experienced that. After all there's no cables to slap around on the frame either. The clicking and whirring of the electric motors is an acquired taste, I think it's cool but others may not.

I will say that even against the instructions of the included derailleur height guide, I find that AXS shifts better with the derailleur a little closer than advised to the largest cog. My XX1 cassette shifts well regardless, but I have a GX cassette on my trail wheelset that was a little reluctant to shift one way, regardless of micro-adjustment. It became more reliable once I took the adjustment screw down a few more milimeters.
 

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J_Westy posted a link to this detailed cassette and gear compatibility Google docs spreadsheet in another thread:


It gives an idea of which combinations of cassettes should work with a SRAM AXS rear derailleur. The column to look at is "sprocket pitch measured" (the distance between the centre of each sprocket in mm). The closer that sprocket spacing measurement is to a SRAM Eagle 12 speed MTB cassette sprocket spacing (3.65mm) the more likely it is that the shifting will work acceptably with a SRAM AXS setup.

Cassette Sprocket Spacing Measurement.jpg


Per this spreadsheet a 12 speed MTB SRAM Eagle cassette has a sprocket spacing of 3.65mm
A 12 speed MTB Shimano cassette has a sprocket spacing of 3.55mm (a difference of 0.10mm)
A 11 speed MTB SRAM cassette has a sprocket spacing of 3.9mm (a difference of 0.35mm)
A 11 speed MTB Shimano cassette has a sprocket spacing of 3.9mm (a difference of 0.35mm)

It's not a combination many people are likely to use but a 11 speed Road Shimano cassette has a sprocket spacing of 3.69mm (a difference of 0.04mm) so you can run a 11 speed road Shimano cassette in a otherwise SRAM Eagle MTB drivetrain and it should shift well. :)

Shimano SRAM 12 Speed MTB Cassette Width.jpg
 
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