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With a SRAM AXS blipbox there's also the option of using the Zirbel WE01 twist shifters:

https://www.zirbel.ch/en/ajax/produ...roduct&cHash=d45759d00aac0f9d08fe60d5b111b401

They wire into it in the same way as a SRAM blip but have a two position switch so you could have a shifter on either side of the handlebars, replacing both of the AXS wireless shifters entirely (AXS rear gears and AXS dropper).

This video is of a super nice 2021 Specialized S-Works Epic which shows an MTB AXS blipbox and shifter installation. The shifters in this video are SRAM multiclics (fast forward to 2 minutes 48 seconds in the video for the SRAM AXS section). :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v67d3uR9nOE&feature=youtu.be

 

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It took me a few rides to try and get a feel for the new style SRAM AXS paddle shifter. After 7 hours riding with 1,526 gear shifts on the new style shifter, and then switching back to the original AXS shifter paddle for a 2 hour ride today, I think I understand what the differences are enough to say what works and what doesn't for me.:)

SRAM AXS Button Locations.jpg

This picture shows the SRAM AXS shifter unit with the paddle removed. There are two buttons on the shifter and the paddle pivots on the highlighted point to press a button for a gear shift. The button function can be reversed in the SRAM AXS app.

SRAM AXS Paddle Locations.jpg

This picture shows a SRAM X-1 cable operated trigger shifter, the SRAM AXS original paddle shifter and then the SRAM AXS new style paddle shifter at the bottom.

The SRAM X-1 cable operated trigger shifter is the reference position of the buttons. The small button (red dot) upshifts to a smaller rear sprocket and the large button (green dot) downshifts to a larger rear sprocket. This layout is standard on both current SRAM and Shimano cable operated trigger shifters and in terms of muscle memory totally automatic for me. I never ever make a misshift riding a bike on this shifter layout due to having had lots of practice.

The SRAM AXS original paddle shifter shows how I have it configured (the button functions can be reversed). The upper button (red dot) upshifts to a smaller rear sprocket and the bottom button (green dot) downshifts to a larger rear sprocket. In comparison to the cable shifter the bottom button location (green dot) is in exactly the same place as it would be using the cable shifter whilst the top button (red dot) is pulled back and up compared to the trigger shifter.

The SRAM AXS updated paddle shifter shows how I have it configured (there are several different permutations of buttons you can use). I was trying to emulate a trigger shifter so the small button (red dot) had to upshift to a smaller rear sprocket, exactly like on a cable operated shifter. This meant swapping the button function in the SRAM AXS app.

This is where the limitations of the two button and rocker pivot show up. With the small button (red dot) emulating the trigger shifter button it means that the bottom of the large paddle (red dot) also has to function as an upshift to a smaller sprocket whilst just the top of the large paddle (green dot) downshifts to a larger rear sprocket. The position of that green dot shows why I was having so many misshifts as it doesn't mirror the position of the large button on a cable operated trigger. It's actually close to where the red dot (upshift to smaller rear sprocket) is with my setup on the original SRAM AXS paddle, that I've been riding with for the last 6 months or so. Apart from the small upshift button (red dot) the other buttons on the new style AXS shifter paddle have the opposite function to what I've been used to. They're the opposite of a cable operated trigger shifter function also so my muscle memory is way off.

SRAM AXS Front Paddle Locations.jpg

This picture shows the front buttons on a Shimano Deore XT M8000 2 way release cable operated trigger shifter and the front button on the new style SRAM AXS shifter. The red and green dots show the upshift and downshift function here also.

The Shimano Deore XT M8000 2 way release trigger shifter upshifts to a smaller rear sprocket when the small button is pushed. It also upshifts to a smaller rear sprocket when the front button is pulled with a finger.

The SRAM AXS new style front shifter has been extended compared to the original shifter paddle so that is very accessible and easy to pull. When the SRAM AXS small button is configured to upshift to a smaller rear sprocket however the front button will downshift to a larger rear sprocket instead, the opposite of what a Shimano 2 way release trigger shifter does. The original SRAM AXS shifter front button in my setup upshifts to a smaller rear sprocket, mirroring the Shimano front trigger function.

If that all sounds confusing and mismatched with the function of a cable operated trigger shifter it is! Trying to remember what button does what on the new AXS shifter paddle whilst riding saw me doing plenty of misshifts, usually downshifting to a larger rear sprocket when I wanted to shift up to a smaller rear sprocket instead. With practice and lots of concentration I was getting better but anytime I started riding automatically I was making frequent shifting errors.

SRAM AXS Misshift Graph.jpg

This ride graph is a good example of what this looked like. I was riding uphill in the 34 x 33 tooth gear and wanted to upshift to the 34 x 28 tooth gear, speeding up. Instead I pressed the wrong button and ended up in the 34 x 51 tooth bottom gear, losing speed instead of gaining it! There are lots of those shifting mistakes all throughout my last few rides. :eekster:
 

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Bike Rumor did a comparison article about the new style SRAM AXS shifter paddle here. Don't take the shifter paddle apart in the middle of some woods if you can help it as the spring would be easy to lose in those leaves on the ground! :

https://bikerumor.com/2020/11/10/review-sram-eagle-axs-rocker-paddle-upgrade-installed-worth-it/


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIfVGXac-tY&feature=emb_title

It wasn't the main point of the review but what I found quite interesting was their comments about the original SRAM AXS paddle shifter.

"Honestly, I never loved the ergonomics of the original AXS paddle shifter. The upper half sits considerably higher than any mechanical shifter lever, and the whole things sits a bit farther behind the bar, too. Meaning, thumb movements are exaggerated and require more effort.

And, no matter which way I made it work through the AXS app, I couldn’t consistently remember which way shifted up or down. Because it’s hard overcoming 15+ years of muscle memory, amiright?"
Bikerumor

The SRAM AXS shifter unit is a rocker that pivots up and down (see my first picture in the post above with the paddle removed) so it doesn't seem to be physically possible to make a shifter paddle that can exactly mirror the button placement of a traditional cable operated trigger shifter, which is what would be most natural and require the least adaptation. What I was hoping for with the new style SRAM AXS shifter paddle would be that it would be more like a traditional shifter but it's limited by the shifter unit layout so can't do that.

Shimano have their Deore XT and XTR Di2 electronic shifting, which doesn't have an identical layout to a cable operated trigger either, but does have a closer layout than the SRAM AXS shifter with two separate buttons. It makes me wonder if Shimano have a patent on the button layout for an electronic MTB shifter that stopped SRAM being able to use that style layout for their AXS MTB shifter? I wouldn't be surprised to find that was the case.:)

shimano-xt-di2-shifter.jpg

For choosing a SRAM AXS shift layout, and then not consistently remembering which way shifts up or down, it is so annoying to have that issue, super stressful! I was really struggling with the new style shifter paddle but not the original shifter paddle.

The method I decided on with the original SRAM AXS shifter paddle was that the bottom of the paddle should downshift to a larger rear sprocket, and then the top of the paddle should upshift to a smaller rear sprocket. In this configuration the front button on the SRAM AXS shifter also upshifts to a smaller rear sprocket so that two out of the three buttons function like a cable shifter and I only had to learn the changed position of the upshift button.

up = upshift
down = downshift

The way I thought of this was that gripshift goes the same way with its sequential shifting - twist up for an upshift and twist down for a downshift, as does Shimano dual control (I always used to really like those shifters even if no one else did ;) )

I thought it would be easiest for me to learn and remember that shift pattern automatically when I was focusing on riding, as even under pressure just thinking of Up and Down is enough to know which button to press to not make mistakes.
 

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Had AXS since new, still have to think about which button to push.

It's not a great design. It's clunky and large.

Have the new trigger on order, hoping it helps.
 

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Had AXS since new, still have to think about which button to push.

It's not a great design. It's clunky and large.

Have the new trigger on order, hoping it helps.
You are hard to please. I feel just the opposite, I think it is a great design, small for what it has going on, clunky I am not sure what you mean by that other than the sound it makes when shifting, that is a very well made steel cassette that is light and resonate, amplifies the sound. I love it. Outstanding piece of kit.
 

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Agreed. AXS is fantastic. I switch between trail and race wheelsets and it’s just a matter of 2 clicks of micro adjust before it’s dialed in again.

My derailleur battery ran out for the first time today. As anticipated I was able to swap out the AXS seatpost battery and finish the ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The switch is physically too large to fit next to a brake lever. I've trimmed my switch, tried different mounts, it's just... passable.
The shifting itself is very nice.
 

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I’ve got the new shifter. Had a few mis-shifts with the original style, but the new one is far better. Haven’t accidentally shifted the wrong way since. It’s far more like the original mechanical setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I had something similar happen after a firmware update. It actually didn't complete the firmware update, but I didn't realize it and tried to go for a ride. The derailleur wouldn't do jack crap until I got it done. So that's what I would check. Open the AXS app and see if the firmware install is done.

Yup same problem here... just that I do not yet have it working !
Any idea how to make it work ?
 

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Yup same problem here... just that I do not yet have it working !
Any idea how to make it work ?
It's been over a year since that happened to me, but what I recall was that I restarted my phone and started the AXS app, and logged in. Then I installed the battery in the derailleur and it resumed the firmware update.

It's probably possible to 'brick' the firmware. If that did happen, you would need sram to help. You have to go through whatever dealer sold you the component affected to open a claim with sram; you can't do it directly as an end-user. Sram isn't in the end-user support business, they support their dealers.

The switch is physically too large to fit next to a brake lever. I've trimmed my switch, tried different mounts, it's just... passable.
The shifting itself is very nice.
I am trying to visualize your issue and I fail. Here's my bars, this is just a crop of a pic I took yesterday - it's easier to do than going into the garage right now and taking a new pic. My brake levers are set up for 1-finger operation which puts them relatively far inboard of grips. This leaves plenty of room for the AXS shifter pod. I happen to have it as far towards the center as possible because I have a fairly long thumb and it needs to be there, but it works well, as you might imagine my index finger and thumb are in proportion. ;)

... So what is your issue? Are you trying to mount the AXS shifter on the other side of your brake lever clamp, perhaps? PXL_20201129_171948903.jpg
 

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I need some help guys, please have a watch of this vid

http://www.youtube.com/shorts/uQBnp-Tcrn0

I have been struggling with my mech and shifting in the top cog (biggest)

Chain length is perfect done with fully air out of shock so it’s not that, all limit screws and b tension spot on

However I cannot stop it skipping of jumping every so often in the biggest cog regardless of setup and yes mech hanger has been checked and checked again

The video shows the mech without the chain on but shifted into the biggest cog, as you can see there is a hell of a lot of play in one pivot like the bolts moving, I cannot confirm if this is normal so if some one could kindly test for me It would be greatly appreciated... it doesn’t look normal to me at all as none of the other pivot areas have this movement but I don’t know if it’s normal

When I push the slack pivot in the mech cage looks parallel to the mech, when I let it flop down it sits obviously off centre, I’m guessing this is where my problem lies with the big cog and shifting band skipping as it’s constantly slack due to that pivot????

Any thoughts or advice appreciated just really need to know if anyone else’s mech does that movement shifted into the biggest cog but with no chain on

Hoping somebody can shed some light :)
 

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Not normal.

There is zero play in mine. And one would expect that from a thousand dollar shift group.



I need some help guys, please have a watch of this vid

http://www.youtube.com/shorts/uQBnp-Tcrn0

I have been struggling with my mech and shifting in the top cog (biggest)

Chain length is perfect done with fully air out of shock so it’s not that, all limit screws and b tension spot on

However I cannot stop it skipping of jumping every so often in the biggest cog regardless of setup and yes mech hanger has been checked and checked again

The video shows the mech without the chain on but shifted into the biggest cog, as you can see there is a hell of a lot of play in one pivot like the bolts moving, I cannot confirm if this is normal so if some one could kindly test for me It would be greatly appreciated... it doesn’t look normal to me at all as none of the other pivot areas have this movement but I don’t know if it’s normal

When I push the slack pivot in the mech cage looks parallel to the mech, when I let it flop down it sits obviously off centre, I’m guessing this is where my problem lies with the big cog and shifting band skipping as it’s constantly slack due to that pivot????

Any thoughts or advice appreciated just really need to know if anyone else’s mech does that movement shifted into the biggest cog but with no chain on

Hoping somebody can shed some light :)
 

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Thought not, very worrying as I’ve really looked after this mech with the price it being

I had it november last year and this pin in video has worked it’s way out, sadly it’s not something you can just screw back in tight

it’s actually sticking out at the top, all the other pins/pivots are firmly down in place, so you can easily see why there would be a lot of play in the biggest cog

Circled green it should be flush, it’s not and there’s no way of screwing it back in, no head on it and it’s circlipped in underneath, the amount of flex/slop it’s creating only when the mechs in the biggest cog is unreal without a chain in place so it’s obvious it’s gonna affect it when shifting and that’s the cog I’m having constant headaches with

A7AEF93F-FE47-4CDD-8259-4D9597F15178.jpg
 

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^^ Yuck. SRAM should warranty replace that without any questions. However, my experience is that they're not responsive to end-users at all. They will want you to go back to the SRAM dealer who sold you the kit and request the warranty replacement through them.
 

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Yep pretty pants, hopefully it’s a one off, I was amongst the first that had it as far as I know, we’ll certainly over a year ago adopter so fingers crossed it’s just the first batch, given where it is there’s nothing really anyone can do to make it happen in the first place, guess it’s just worked it’s way loose

Have got the receipt and shop have kindly offered to send it off for me, this will be sram uk so not sure how long it will take but I’ll certainly be off the bike for a few weeks I’m sure, a bit gutting really but these things happen least it’s still in the warranty period is all I can say
 

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Any thoughts on SRAM holding the current pricing levels (lower)(steady)(increasing) on the full group into next summer from the current $1400? I ordered my second set last week at a price $1399, significantly less than the $1900 I paid last year. I want a third set for a new build that won't be ready till summer.
 

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Any thoughts on SRAM holding the current pricing levels (lower)(steady)(increasing) on the full group into next summer from the current $1400? I ordered my second set last week at a price $1399, significantly less than the $1900 I paid last year. I want a third set for a new build that won't be ready till summer.
not sure what you bought for $1399... can you elaborate?

for a while now, the kits have been shrunk down considerably. they only have shifter, rear derailleur, 1 battery, and the charger. which is all you need to upgrade an existing bike, but for a complete build you would be short the cranks, chain and cassette that used to be included in the kit when it was $1999.

at any rate, in my opinion, we won't see the price come down from $1,000 for the upgrade kit until/unless sram releases a lower-trim / cheaper option. X1 or GX level. presumably this would have a heavier, cheaper rear derailleur but I don't really see how they could make the shifter cheaper and still functional (unlike the mechanical groups).
 

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"full group". crank, cassette, chain, der, shifter. I paid $1900 for my first set late last year, $1399 last week. thinking about picking up two more for new builds. But I hate having parts sit around devaluing.
ah, so you did find a pretty good deal. yet you haven't linked it here for others to enjoy. ;)

did your full group come with the 50t or 52t cassette?
 

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ah, so you did find a pretty good deal. yet you haven't linked it here for others to enjoy. ;)

did your full group come with the 50t or 52t cassette?
50T. Google is your friend ;) and I don't want to get any dealer in trouble for that pesky MAP crap. if it's online, doubt the price is below MAP.

I ordered two more sets for new chiner 120mm travel full squish builds. I'm not satisfied with the delivery times of new bikes from the traditional bike makers. Deliveries extend into "June" and that is "pending further delays".
 
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