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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping for a bit of help. I recently bought a pair of SRAM Code RSC that are take-offs from a new bike. They appear to be in great shape. But I'm trying to figure out whether or not I've got a problem. Longtime Shimano user, I'm new to SRAM brakes.

The rear hose has been cut close to the lever as the brake hose was internally routed on the frame these came off of. And that lever, the one that's not currently attached to the brake, will not move at all. Totally stuck. I don't understand what about being detached from the hose and caliper would cause that—it's not something I've ever had happen with Shimano brake levers.

So, the thing I'm trying to figure out is if that's normal or not. Once I've got the hose and caliper reattached and have done a bleed, can I safely assume that all will be cool? Or am I going to want to dig into the lever and see what's going on before I bother mounting, connecting hose, and bleeding?

Any thoughts or info anyone could share, I'd be appreciative.
 

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Big M, Little organ.
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My guess is the hose barb (aka stealth-a-majig) was pinched shut when cutting the hose. If you remove the nut and hose from the lever body does the lever move?
 

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Is the lever stuck in or out? On some older SRAM brakes the piston could get stuck in if you pushed the lever all the way without it being connected. The spring itself was too weak. A thin blunt object (tiny allen) can be inserted through the hose connection to push the piston back and free it up. Also, some earlier SRAM brakes had a material issue with the lever piston such that it would swell and get stuck. That was a few years ago now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Organ and Lone Rager, thanks to you both for taking the time to reply. Good theories from both of you.

This thread from a couple weeks back ended up containing the secret to my success. The nub of hose had already been removed from the lever body, which I hadn't been clear about in my OP. The little red plunger piece that's part of the "stealth-a-majig piston assembly" was pressed firmly in place, preventing the lever from operating. I took a little T7 torx wrench and used it to depress the plunger and the lever moves freely now. I'm confident all will be aok when I bleed.

Thanks again y'all. Good looking out.
 
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