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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did search but didn't find my exact scenario, so here we go...

Stock SRAM XO1 on Transition Spur

I added 165mm NX cranks...at the same time I went from a 32t stock round to 30t Wolf Tooth oval.

Downshifting (to larger cogs) is perfect.

Upshifting to (to smaller cogs) is fine 1-3 then starts to degrade in the middle of the cassette. Rode it a few times like this, love the 30t, but the upshifting was driving me nuts!

The chain had zero tension on the smallest cog, so took out one section of chain to tighten it up...now it seems to be worse on the stand at least. I'm stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you also check your B Tension with the chain gap tool after you installed the new chainring? Also good to check the fine adjustment.
Thank you! Yes, I went out this morning and adjusted the B screw...actually fine tuned it by sight (taking it closer and closer to the largest ring) until the shifting improved in the smaller rings. Then put the adjustment guide on to see where I ended up and it is very close. I'll ride it today and see how it does under power/sag, but it's shifting pretty good on the stand now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Eagle systems are really sensitive to b-screw adjustment
That's what I finding. Having to put in sag to adjust is kind of a hassle.

Thinking I'm liking the Shimano XT stuff on my Ripley a lot more now. I'm doing the same 165mm crank and smaller oval ring on that bike next week...so we'll see.

I truly appreciate the help from everyone!
 

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Also with the XT stuf you have the B-tension and to take in account the sag. SRAM is working with an tool for the B-tension and Shimano has a mark on the rear derailleur for setting the B-tension. The SRAM tool is more fail safe ;-)

On my fully I set the B-tension without releasing the sag. For know I had no problems with that. Yes ones I had to look in to the SAG. I just replaced the demper.
 

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deflate shock and or have a buddy sit on it.

b gap is very important.

should have chain tension in the smallest cog when you are off the bike

normally dont have to take out a link unless 4 teeth come off. your bike must have been a bit long chained w the 32.

derailleur alignment is important and so is a good fresh unkinked cable in the housing.

shift to the 8th or 9th gear and sight the chain between teeth. here the chain sits down between adjacent cogs, so its easy to tweak the tension to get the chain to sit perfectly between the gears without touching and making that annoying tick.

if it sits there nicely, its not much change in tension afterwards for best performance.

always shift a few gears up and then back down after a tension adjustment change. resets the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
deflate shock and or have a buddy sit on it.

b gap is very important.

should have chain tension in the smallest cog when you are off the bike

normally dont have to take out a link unless 4 teeth come off. your bike must have been a bit long chained w the 32.

derailleur alignment is important and so is a good fresh unkinked cable in the housing.

shift to the 8th or 9th gear and sight the chain between teeth. here the chain sits down between adjacent cogs, so its easy to tweak the tension to get the chain to sit perfectly between the gears without touching and making that annoying tick.

if it sits there nicely, its not much change in tension afterwards for best performance.

always shift a few gears up and then back down after a tension adjustment change. resets the system.
Thank you! I'll go back out and try again. Yesterday's ride was a touch better but still hanging up on upshifts from 4 to 5 to 6. I have to click twice up, then down once to get it to settle most times. Sometimes it will finally drop after a 10 seconds or so of pedaling.

I did recheck the Wolf Tooth model and offset to make sure I had what I was supposed to.

Yes, my chain had zero tension on the smallest cog, probably a link worth (two pins) so removed the min amount I could to tighten it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, finally got it! As mentioned above, after airing down the shock, tying it off at sag, using the gauge properly to set the B limit screw...I was still getting shifts hanging up shifting from 5th to 6th. I then backed OUT the B screw half a turn and shifting got better, then backed it out another half turn it and it's spot on. Not instantaneous like my Shimano 12 speed, but definitely good enough! Could be the suspension geometry of the Spur that's throwing off the setting it with the gauge alone.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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Jumping in with a related question: there's multiple SRAM B-gap tools. How do you know which one to use with which cassette? I have an 11-50 NX 12-speed and I used the translucent one, not the white one shown in the video above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jumping in with a related question: there's multiple SRAM B-gap tools. How do you know which one to use with which cassette? I have an 11-50 NX 12-speed and I used the translucent one, not the white one shown in the video above.
You may have the correct one. Mine is the same white one, used on my 12 speed, mine came with the bike.
 

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I've used the white one with that NX cassette and gotten the correct gap. Personally, I think it's just easier to use than the translucent one was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Another quick update and reminder, I watched this video and got me thinking about the cable tension being the culprit of my poor up-shifts (dropping to smaller cogs). I had undone that cable and set the outboard limit, then retightened, careful not to put too much tension on it. Well, I got a light this time and watched as I tightened it and just the act of tightening will pull the cable and put more tension on it than needed. So I screwed the barrel adjuster out a few turns, then tightened it, the screwed the barrel back in. Seems to be dropping down the cassette much better now!

A good video I found with some tips...

 
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