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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My just completed build is set up rigid. I "thought" that's how it would remain for some time but I chose this bike because of all the options I had for changing as my needs/desires might change. I'm not getting any younger but I'm surprisingly pedaling the SS pretty well for edging up on the 'double nickles' age group! My next step is yo complete my wheelset to really consider this project complete...till the mod bug comes along.

Surprisingly, on Christmas Day, Santa Claus...yes...literally, my buddy was in a full Santa suit for his work day! Anyway, he knocks on my door and hands me a Fox 34 140 Kashima CTD fork. He bought it used without considering the steerer length on his XL frame and it will not work. It will fit my Monkey, though. Perfectly it would appear. I already have the EC44 lower headset installed and just need a crown race for it. I measured the A/C length at 508mm but accounting for my typical running of my past Fox 34's at 30% sag, that brings it right near the 473mm A/C measurement of the OEM Monkey fork.

Any fellow Monkey owners set up similarly or have any experience running this set-up? Is it too much travel for this frame? I haven't considered offset as of yet so would welcome any thoughts or experiences on that. My current (temporary) wheelset is QR so I can't try this as of yet but I'm build with Hope Pro4's and can work with a 15mm hub and run a billet adapter for QR or just change out the end caps to switch back & forth. Looking to get started on that build soon as I'm anxious for more tire volume.

One more thing related to hubs I'd like to throw out here. I originally planned using a 10x135 Hope Trial/SS rear hub. Then I started thinking about future options of possibly running a cassette/ derrailleur on this thing and the Trials/SS hub on NOT convertible due to hub body length. My default is to go with a standard 10x135 bolt-on hub with traditional Shimano freehub and utilize the Surly spacer kit for SS use. That hub can be converted to QR or 12x142 with minimal effort should I decide to go there and relieve the need to build a new matching wheel. Anyone see any disadvantages or anything I'm missing with that line of thought?

TIA
 

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The frame is designed around a 100mm fork, so you'll be slacking out the HT quite a bit.

Which will make it a lot of fun on the downhills but might really affect the climbing. I put a 100mm fork on the older KM designed around an 80mm fork and if I'm out of position on really steep techy climbs the front wheel dances around on me, I can't imagine how bad it would be if I added 40mm of travel.

All that being said it won't hurt to try it out just to see how you like it. If you do like it the only downside would be the possibility that you're voiding your warranty if you're still eligible for one.
 

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You can totally do a short stack cassette on a SS freewheel. I haven't done in in a while, but I think it's something like 6/10. Just use the matching derailleur for whatever number of speeds the cassette came from. The only modification you might have to do is filing the big spline on the cassette, depending if the freehub spline is standard Shimano type, or 9 equal splines. The jumps can be a bit jarring, but if all you need is a little bit more, it can work great. It is difficult to find a cassette with a small end larger than 12t, though. Miche makes loose 11-15t first position sprockets, though, if I remember correctly.

I'm not sure anyone even makes 9 equal splines anymore, except for Shimano's BMX line...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
IIRC, the Hope Trials/SS freehub will handle 5 cogs. I considered that but have come to the conclusion that if I need to go geared, I'd want/need the 10 (11-36 or maybe even 42) that I'm used to having and maintaining the 1x up front.
 

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The only thing that is going to be be "bad" is slacking out the geo a bunch. Surly will probably tell you that it is to much. For whatever it is worth I used to run a 140 pike on my 1x1. It felt great. I rather enjoyed it. It climbed fine and went downhill even better.

The biggest worry is always snapping a headtube off of the frame. Ask Surly what the correct answer is.
 

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rth009
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The frame is designed around a 100mm fork, so you'll be slacking out the HT quite a bit.

Which will make it a lot of fun on the downhills but might really affect the climbing. I put a 100mm fork on the older KM designed around an 80mm fork and if I'm out of position on really steep techy climbs the front wheel dances around on me, I can't imagine how bad it would be if I added 40mm of travel.

All that being said it won't hurt to try it out just to see how you like it. If you do like it the only downside would be the possibility that you're voiding your warranty if you're still eligible for one.
Do you have the new Karate Monkey frame? Its designed for up to a 140mm fork:

Karate Monkey SS | Bikes | Surly Bikes
 

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Ok at the moment I have 4 monkeys. I just acquired a 2014 in alittle side job deal. I have one set up rigid with a 2.5 minion. One that is my race bike come carbon and lightish bits and with a 100mm SID. And the latest set up with Flows and a 120mm Reba. They are all single speed and ride awesome just with different attitudes . Honestly 140 might push it alittle to much . My 120 forked one has a bb height of 12 3/4 . Kinda high but doable. Have not ridden It yet although I did have a monkey 8 years ago with 120 on it and don't remember any issues.
 

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My just completed build is set up rigid. I "thought" that's how it would remain for some time but I chose this bike because of all the options I had for changing as my needs/desires might change. I'm not getting any younger but I'm surprisingly pedaling the SS pretty well for edging up on the 'double nickles' age group! My next step is yo complete my wheelset to really consider this project complete...till the mod bug comes along.

Surprisingly, on Christmas Day, Santa Claus...yes...literally, my buddy was in a full Santa suit for his work day! Anyway, he knocks on my door and hands me a Fox 34 140 Kashima CTD fork. He bought it used without considering the steerer length on his XL frame and it will not work. It will fit my Monkey, though. Perfectly it would appear. I already have the EC44 lower headset installed and just need a crown race for it. I measured the A/C length at 508mm but accounting for my typical running of my past Fox 34's at 30% sag, that brings it right near the 473mm A/C measurement of the OEM Monkey fork.

Any fellow Monkey owners set up similarly or have any experience running this set-up? Is it too much travel for this frame? I haven't considered offset as of yet so would welcome any thoughts or experiences on that. My current (temporary) wheelset is QR so I can't try this as of yet but I'm build with Hope Pro4's and can work with a 15mm hub and run a billet adapter for QR or just change out the end caps to switch back & forth. Looking to get started on that build soon as I'm anxious for more tire volume.

One more thing related to hubs I'd like to throw out here. I originally planned using a 10x135 Hope Trial/SS rear hub. Then I started thinking about future options of possibly running a cassette/ derrailleur on this thing and the Trials/SS hub on NOT convertible due to hub body length. My default is to go with a standard 10x135 bolt-on hub with traditional Shimano freehub and utilize the Surly spacer kit for SS use. That hub can be converted to QR or 12x142 with minimal effort should I decide to go there and relieve the need to build a new matching wheel. Anyone see any disadvantages or anything I'm missing with that line of thought?

TIA
That a-c measurement seems off, average 100mm 29er forks are 505mm give or take. Fox's due run a little shorter but i would guess it would around 540mm. My Magura ts8 120 is 530mm a-c, G2 fox float 120 is 518. Plus you are adding the a-c height of the external headset. I bet it would be easy to drop that fork to 100, the older fox's just had spacers to place on the air piston. I am currently building the same frame as my gravel grinder, about 80% there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not sure where I came up with the 508mm. The 140 has a 553mm A-C. I tried contacting Fox this past week to see if I have some options for shortening this unit to 100 or even 120 if I have to but they are shut down till the 3rd of January.

As for the EC lower headset, I think Surly already accounts for that as I read it's specific use mention in numerous spewings. A zero stack upper and EC lower seem to pretty normal for even the rigid fork as far as I can tell. Hopefully this week will shed light on whether this fork is usable to me. Till then, she's being ridden regularly as a rigid. I picked up my hoops last night and my hubs will be here maybe Mon/Tue so the fresh wheelset build will commence and then it will be officially done.
 

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I saw your rig on the karate monkey thread, looks great, makes me regret getting black. I went with the same headset for the same reason, plus all of my 29ers have cane creek so I can swap back and forth. You will definitely be able to shorten the fox, just a matter of proper spacers/air piston, I know they changed them recently.
 
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