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I, Mudd
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I picked up my new Turner 5 Spot as assembled by Rage in Scottsdale (see thread here for reference) and figured I oughta do a mini-review and take a few obligatory shots and post them.

The pics following the post were taken in my back yard after a nice long Hawes/Twisted Sister ride. I did wipe the Spot down to make her nice and clean and moist for the shots but that's it.

**WARNING** the last shot is rather disturbing! I brought my old Cannondale Super-V out to sorta compare the two side by side but had to go back inside for a minute to grab a fresh Heiney. When I came back out, well . . . , lets say I was shocked to say the least. I didn't know how the V would take to the Spot but this I wasn't expecting. I guess the Spot is just too beautiful? I mean really, can you blame V?? Anyway, view with caution.

As to the ride itself- what an amazing difference! Compared to the V this bike climbs better, pedals better, and descends better. I did things yesterday after work in the T-100 area that I always hesitated on with the Super-V. I guess the Spot just inspires confidence with its geometry. I'm sure the RP23 and Pike help a lot too.

A couple things I need to address though:

1) The rear brake pads slightly rub the rotor. I did some reading and it looks like this will self-resolve after a bit. I guess I'll be patient on this one.

2) Rear derailleur shifting is a little harsh and inaccurate. It always grabs the gear but there is some jumping and little grindage just after the shift. I'd expect brand new components to be precise. I think on this one I'll log a few more miles, allow the cables to stretch a tad, then take it back to Rage for its post-break in tune-up. I'll bring this up with those guys then.

3) Finally, I developed knee pain in the outside of my left knee. I never had any pain at all on the Cannondale so I don't know if I just tweaked it riding yesterday or if there is a new bike fit issue. I stopped into Paragon before my ride today and Kevin took a quick look but didn't see anything out of whack (granted- this was a quick review and not a full analysis). He recommended maybe shifting the seat a little more forward and down but that's it. By the end of my ride today I was walking up hills because the pain was so bad. I guess I'll take it easy (aka "no riding") for a few days then hit it again to see if the same issue recurs. Maybe it is a cleat position issue? I'm really really hoping it's not related to the frame. Or, if it is, it is an easily resolved issue.

On to the pr0n:
 

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It's a Sledgehammer.
Joined
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357 Posts
If you got knee pain from a new bike, it's either cleat placement
or saddle position. The layback seatpost gives alarm bells because
this would kill my knees. Have someone put a plumb line on your knee
cap and see where it lies. The old sizing trick is to line up the plumb line
with the ball of your foot in the 3-9 pedal position. Make sure the
pedal cleat lines the ball of your foot up with the pedal axle.
good luck.
 

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My other ride is your mom
Joined
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5,442 Posts
As for knee pain.....it sounds like your IT band....something I know all to well about. Suggest you start incorporating hockey stretches in addition to adjusting your cleat position (heels in toes out), seat height, and for god sakes....get off spd pedals if you're on them and get some ATAC's.....90% of my knee problems went away after switching to ATAC's. The rest was resolved with better geometry and stretching.
 

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I, Mudd
Joined
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
jperson said:
If you got knee pain from a new bike, it's either cleat placement
or saddle position. The layback seatpost gives alarm bells because
this would kill my knees. Have someone put a plumb line on your knee
cap and see where it lies. The old sizing trick is to line up the plumb line
with the ball of your foot in the 3-9 pedal position. Make sure the
pedal cleat lines the ball of your foot up with the pedal axle.
good luck.
The seatpost came off of my older Cannondale (which was too small for me). Maybe I'll try a straight up post and if that'll work better. The frame is supposed to fit me after all.
 

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Kathleen in AZ
Joined
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5,178 Posts
Great new bike - congrats on your purchase! Since it sounds like you need a new seatpost anyway, you might want to consider getting a Gravity Dropper since you are trying to up your technical skills. Being able to drop your saddle on-the-fly is a wonderful thing - you'll be flying down the super steeps in no time at all.

Also... if Rage built that bike up for you take it back and ask them to properly cut and bleed the brake cables. You got way too much cable sticking out front! And while you are there, have them adjust the rear brake pads and rear cable tension... sounds like both (brake and derailuer) just need a little tweeking. Your brand spanking new brakes shouldn't rub and your shifting should be precise. In defense of the mechanics though, there is rarely an occasion when a bike is perfect off the stand. Everyone should know how to adjust the cable tension at their shifters to fine-tune the shifting when on the trail. It's not hard but it helps to have someone show you.... ask them to teach you or hit one of us bike nuts up on the trail for help!

enjoy that Spot!
 

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Dave
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899 Posts
This is really easy. Cleat position, are these the same shoes, cheats, pedals you used on the Super V or did you buy new shoes, pedals and cheats for the Spot? If these are the same old shoes and cheats then it's propbably the saddle position. That's the beauty of buying a bike from a shop (I guess, have never done it myself) take it back and make them fix it right away before they forget your name or worse they blame you fot it.
 

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Registered
Joined
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2,044 Posts
Maadjurguer said:
As for knee pain.....it sounds like your IT band....something I know all to well about. Suggest you start incorporating hockey stretches in addition to adjusting your cleat position (heels in toes out), seat height, and for god sakes....get off spd pedals if you're on them and get some ATAC's.....90% of my knee problems went away after switching to ATAC's. The rest was resolved with better geometry and stretching.
+2 on the Time ATAC XC Carbon pedals.
These pedals cured my knee pain, ---and of course get rid of that seat post, ----my knees hurt just looking at how far back behind the crank you gotta be .

I actuall like my seat way in front of my crank, ---you will find that with a better climbing bike you do not want to be behind the crank like that, thats gotta hurt knees and balance on really tech climbs.

Great looking bike tho.
My oldlady and myself went the the Turner and Pivit ride day and road some bikes , ---Dave had an XL Spot that I really loved and fit me really good, -----
The Spot is really great, I would have one if I did not need a bigger bike bacause of the way I slam bikes .

You will never ride the V again
 

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I, Mudd
Joined
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213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
DurtGurl said:
Everyone should know how to adjust the cable tension at their shifters to fine-tune the shifting when on the trail. It's not hard but it helps to have someone show you.... ask them to teach you or hit one of us bike nuts up on the trail for help!
I ended up tweaking both the rear mech and the pads myself tonight- I think I've got them dialed in really well. I learned by trial and error with the Super-V over the past year or so.

Hmmm . . .your posts are always so thoughtful! Maybe I shouldn't be afraid of you after all? :thumbsup:

liteandfast said:
This is really easy. Cleat position, are these the same shoes, cheats, pedals you used on the Super V or did you buy new shoes, pedals and cheats for the Spot? If these are the same old shoes and cheats then it's probably the saddle position. That's the beauty of buying a bike from a shop (I guess, have never done it myself) take it back and make them fix it right away before they forget your name or worse they blame you fot it.
I went back to Rage on Sunday and we did a pretty thorough fitting. We measured a lot of relative positions on the Super-V and compared them to the Spot. It turns out that the Spot is quite similar to the V when it comes to measurements like seat to crank, seat to handle bar, and seat height. It turns out though that my left cleat was mis-aligned (my left knee was the one giving me trouble). The angle relative to the big toe was way off and it was set too far back. We'll see how it feels Tuesday after work for my pre-pre-spring fling ride.

kelstr said:
+2 on the Time ATAC XC Carbon pedals.
These pedals cured my knee pain(.)

* * *

I actually like my seat way in front of my crank, ---you will find that with a better climbing bike you do not want to be behind the crank like that, thats gotta hurt knees and balance on really tech climbs.

* * *

You will never ride the V again
I might consider the ATAC XC pedals if the knee issue continues. I'd like to get it resolved through positioning strategy but we'll see.

Interesting statement about the seat position. I always thought the conventional wisdom was "knee cap over pedal". I wonder if others like a more compact riding position like you do?

Yes, the V is lonely and sometimes cries at night :D
 

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Dave
Joined
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899 Posts
Hey well thats great news. You will most likely find that cleat adjust will do the trick but if not I have a brand new set of Time MTB pedals that I would let go cheaper then you could buy them anywhere so if you change let me know. They have new ccleats too.

"Knee over the pedal" I think it should say or has been stated "a virtual line from your knee cap to the spindle of your pedal" is the correct wording. Then your ball of your foot over the spindle.

There's many fitting articals on line.
Happy riding Hfy108
 
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