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Victim of Saddle Rage
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yeah, I just got my signed permission slip from the wife for 3 days of riding in Tucson/PHX, but I have to take her climbing at least once. I've googled like mad and found Cochise and Mnt Lemmon both on the way from NM, but the info is weak. We are looking for 5.6 to 5.10, plenty of bolts, and preferably at a lower elevation where it is warm. Any recommendations? Anything up in PHX? --thanks
 

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Monocog Masher
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161 Posts
If you are coming from NM (presumably via I10) then take the exit at Benson that heads south towards Tombstone (i think it is Hwy 82). When you are almost to Tombstone (home of the OK Corral) take a left on Middlemarch Road. Follow that for a few miles (as you approach) the Dragoons (Cochise's Stronghold). This is part of the same range that you pass through on I10 that is called Texas Canyon. Same type of rocks, just a lot taller. When you get to a fork in the road, take the left branch, which will take you to a really cool climbing area called Westworld. Sweetwater has a lot of freshly bolted routes. There is a great website that has lots of good info about the routes in that area (diagrams and photos included). If you want, I'll look it up for you.

After your climb, stop off in Tombstone and have a bite to eat and take in the atmosphere.
 

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thisportistoodamnexpensiv
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70 Posts
I've never been to Cochise Stronghold but I've heard nothing but good things about it, check it out if you can.

I've spent lots of time on Mt. Lemmon and I know it has plenty of both sport and trad routes of all ranges and at all elevations between 2000 and 9000 feet, so you'll be able to find a comfortable climate. Try to get the guide "Squeezing the Lemmon" if you can, otherwise I'm sure there's plenty of maps/beta online. There's an area called West Wall (I think that's what it's called) that has routes in that range, and it's at a low elevation, all sport I believe. Many of the trad routes up there can be top-roped as well if you don't mind a little hiking.

If it's not too cold try to find a route that's just before Windy Point called "Chihuaha Power" (5.9), one of my all-time favorites. Absolute classic.
 

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Victim of Saddle Rage
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620 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I am really interested in Cochise. Windy point would be a bit too cool for us right now. If you have that website, would you mind posting? I'll just follow your directions and see what I find
 

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Sup?
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639 Posts
Climbing Info

cannonballtrail said:
Yeah, I just got my signed permission slip from the wife for 3 days of riding in Tucson/PHX, but I have to take her climbing at least once. I've googled like mad and found Cochise and Mnt Lemmon both on the way from NM, but the info is weak. We are looking for 5.6 to 5.10, plenty of bolts, and preferably at a lower elevation where it is warm. Any recommendations? Anything up in PHX? --thanks
Oak Flat / Queen Creek in the Phx area is your best bet for sport routes..
there is stuff in the McDowells that is more trad (N. Scottsdale)

This will be warmer than the routes in the SW stronghold..

On Mt. Lemmon proper there is sport climbing, although it's not at
the lower elevations.. Chimney Rock has a few cool routes on it
but again, more trad,.. not bolted clip ups.

Stop off at the Summit Hut in Tucson and get beta for Lemmon.. previous
poster s beta on Tombstone is right on.. Sheepshead area.. Isle of You (Ewe)

Mountainproject.com should have a lot of info by region.

cheers,

-tim

http://www.timschneider.org
 

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Victim of Saddle Rage
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620 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mountainproject.com is a wicked good resource. Never saw it before. I hated phx at first (sprawl, traffic..), but in the last year I have come to really like the riding. Good climbing would really be an added bonus. We've climbed in germany and new river recently and would like to get back into it. Queen sounds the perfect spot with both easier and some more challenging routes. The peeps in summit hut are very cool btw., however I lost their print outs and suggestions list.

thanks for the input
 

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Monocog Masher
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161 Posts
cannonballtrail said:
Mountainproject.com is a wicked good resource. Never saw it before. I hated phx at first (sprawl, traffic..), but in the last year I have come to really like the riding. Good climbing would really be an added bonus. We've climbed in germany and new river recently and would like to get back into it. Queen sounds the perfect spot with both easier and some more challenging routes. The peeps in summit hut are very cool btw., however I lost their print outs and suggestions list.

thanks for the input
Mountain Project was the site I was going to recommend. More up to date than any of the books on the subject. The area I was talking about includes, Westworld, Isle of You (ewe), and Sweet Rock.

You'll have a blast. Camping immediately available (where ever you want).

This is Sweet Rock, all freshly bolted routes.




 

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SamuraiBunnyGuy
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2,587 Posts
is there a shape reminiscent of a sheep's head somewhere in the mountainscape, or is it just named after all the satanists that do all their animal sacrifices up there?
 

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Monocog Masher
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161 Posts
longhairmike said:
is there a shape reminiscent of a sheep's head somewhere in the mountainscape, or is it just named after all the satanists that do all their animal sacrifices up there?
Nah, I don't think so. Not sure how it got its name. It is pretty cool though.
 
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