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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am running DT TK 7.1s rims with DT comp 2.0/1.8 spokes on my 29, and there seems to be a little too much flex for me. I am on the heavier side 235lbs. Should I switch out the double butted spokes in the rear for straight gage spokes?

Thanks
 

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fellow clydesdale

Oliver said:
I am running DT TK 7.1s rims with DT comp 2.0/1.8 spokes on my 29, and there seems to be a little too much flex for me. I am on the heavier side 235lbs. Should I switch out the double butted spokes in the rear for straight gage spokes?

Thanks
if you are picking up too much lateral flex try beefing up to 14 gauge straight and have it built 4x. it will cost you a few grams on the wheel but stiffen it alot.( if not already, use alloy nipples to save on rotational mass.) I had to do that using open pros on my ruffian 29" (i push 265 lbs i feel your pain brother) it made a big difference.
 

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rider
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Flex?

I'm about 215# and am running a split drilled TK 7.1 32 hole ft./36h rear wheelset. Dt 14g spokes in both wheels. Plenty stiff. I'd suggest building a 36h straight 14g rear wheel and keeping your current wheel as a backup spare, you never know when you might need it.

29erchico
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the input. The rear rim is a 32h three cross lace with alloy nipples. I may need to re-build it or build up another rim with straight gage spokes and possibly a 36h.

thanks again.
 

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Misfit Psycles
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i have not intentions of dieting and currently only run 32hole hubs (straight 12 gauge laced 2 cross).
opinion time...3cross or 36hole? which change would show the largest improvement...yes you could say 3cross 36 but i am looking to nail the SINGLE variable not cover all bases.
 

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And He was Not
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Change out the drive side spokes to a straight14 gauge.This will stiffen up the wheel considerably and you don't have to take the wheel all the way down. Can be done for less than $20.00
 

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Misfit Psycles
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Enoch said:
Change out the drive side spokes to a straight14 gauge.This will stiffen up the wheel considerably and you don't have to take the wheel all the way down. Can be done for less than $20.00
sorry i wasn't completely forthcoming.
i am not just working on my wheel. i am looking to prevent duplication of inventory. 26er vs 29er stuff is bad enough.

i was looking to either change wheel building (from 2 to 3 cross) or switch ALL hub inventory to 36...i am leaning toward the former b/c 36 is foreign to me.
 

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This place needs an enema
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Oliver said:
I am running DT TK 7.1s rims with DT comp 2.0/1.8 spokes on my 29, and there seems to be a little too much flex for me. I am on the heavier side 235lbs. Should I switch out the double butted spokes in the rear for straight gage spokes?

Thanks
Switching to straight gauge on your existing wheel will make some difference.
Switching to 36h would make a more noticable difference.
Doing both would be even better.

But the best option would be to use a slightly beefier rim (Sun Rhyno Lite) with 36 straight gauge spokes.

Let us know how it works out.

MC
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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29"_of_Firewater said:
if you are picking up too much lateral flex try beefing up to 14 gauge straight and have it built 4x. it will cost you a few grams on the wheel but stiffen it alot.( if not already, use alloy nipples to save on rotational mass.) I had to do that using open pros on my ruffian 29" (i push 265 lbs i feel your pain brother) it made a big difference.
This is as good a thread as any to jump from, as most are in agreement on the basic moves needed, and you said something worth mentioning, only for clarities sake. I am assuming he is on a 32 hole, and yes, 36 will make a difference, that, and SG spokes, but 4X can only be done on 36, not on 32. Also, I have seen way too many folks trash alloy nips trying to true them, fine for weight geeky roadies who never need trueing, but hey, a 28 pound MTB is gonna see some knocks, and the 15ish grams saved on alloy vs brass has just never been an issue. I build a lot of wheels, for many of competetive riders, and only do brass, no-one ever lost a race because of brass nips, or complained about how heavy their wheels were. My two cents=:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Yes, I am on 32h rims. The boss will flip out if I try to buy a new rim and hub, seeing as it is a brand new bike. My only option would be to switch spokes. Given all the input, it looks like straight gage spokes may be the best option. Thanks for everyones input.
 

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Don't be a sheep
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Oliver said:
I am running DT TK 7.1s rims with DT comp 2.0/1.8 spokes on my 29, and there seems to be a little too much flex for me. I am on the heavier side 235lbs. Should I switch out the double butted spokes in the rear for straight gage spokes?

Thanks
Thicker gauge spokes will help a bit but you'll get a much better result going to a stronger rim. Are you sure it's wheel flex and not Tire squirm or frame flex. Those seem like pretty robust wheels and should be plenty for someone your size.
 

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Agree with Mike and Rivet that a beefier rim is going to make the biggest difference. Seeing as the hub is probably the most expensive part of the wheel - I'd re-build with a Rhino-lite and 14G spokes - as well as lose a bit of weight :)

Good luck,

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rivet said:
Thicker gauge spokes will help a bit but you'll get a much better result going to a stronger rim. Are you sure it's wheel flex and not Tire squirm or frame flex. Those seem like pretty robust wheels and should be plenty for someone your size.
It could be tire squirm. All I know, is that it is moving enough to hit my front derailure. I know go to a SS. Not gona happen, I need my gears.
 
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