[waterdogs]

Sorry if the mods think this should go in the Suspension threads, but since it's a Fox 40 and on my DH rig, I figured I'd ask here. If not in the correct place, feel free to move.

I keep buying used and/or demo bikes. The latest acquisition has a dual crown Fox 40 of which is my first, so my knowledge is very limited to none (at least I can admit it.... had all single crown til now). I should note it is brand new and don't think it's ever been riden, maybe around the parking lot, but that prob it. My questions:

1. What comes on the CDs/manuals/setup pages either when you buy a new bike or a new fork?
2. Is the above the same stuff that is available on-line?
3. If no to the above, can someone burn me a copy and/or send it to me?
4. Again my reference to my first DCFork, the right stanchion when compressed by hand is very easy and for the most part has zero rebound and stays compressed. Normal?
5. Same reference, the left stanchion is very difficult to compress. I assume it's because there is spring internal to the stanchion. Normal?

I've got to put the bike together, so I want to make sure everything is on order before I do. Thanks in advance.

 

[crazyjohnny]

go to the fox website. They have a manual for the fox 40 on there with a set up guide.

 

[Bikesair]

Four is normal. Damper only, no spring.
Five is correct.

1-3, call Fox. My questions is...who cares? Unless your going to service the thing or check torque specs what do you need from the manual? Not much is different than a Single Crown except the fact that its more stiff.

 

[waterdogs]

Thanks for the answers on 4-5, those are really the two I wanted answered. As for the others, it's just the Engineer in me. I feel like I have to know how everything works.

 

[kenbentit]

The info on the CD is the same as you'll find on Fox's website.

 

[erosive]

save ya some diggin...
http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/

 

[Lelandjt]

I'd never touched a 40 till today when I did an oil change and tune on one.

Some maintenance info I can give you:
Both legs get 50ml of oil for lubrication so of course this will pour out when removing the foot nuts & top caps.
The damper gets 100ml of 10wt oil (cycle it while adding oil to bring air to the top) but some of it gets pushed out during bladder installation. When pushing the bladder down into the oil filled cartridge you need to wiggle it side to side to allow the displaced oil to get out. Otherwise you will compress and pressurize the bladder and have too much oil in the cart, resulting in a WAY progressive feel (that's what the last guy to work on this fork did). You also must make sure that all air was on top and was forced out during bladder installation.

Tuning:
The compression clickers have 18 clicks each. Set them both in the middle and go from there. You'll probably end up backing the high speed off some for more plushness on sharp hits (add clicks too keep it up in the travel on fast multiple hits). If you want less dive, wallow, and more bottoming resistance on big landings add low speed clicks. For more plushness/traction remove them.
Use the spring preload only to set sag, which should be about an inch. Preload has little effect past 1/3 of the way into the travel. If the spring feels too soft/hard overall you have to change springs.
Finally adjust rebound to taste. Remember that a rebound setting that feels nice in a parking lot can be too fast or slow on the trail. Pay attention to it on your first ride.

I thought it was a nice feeling fork and was fairly simple and easy to work on. I was surprised at how small the damper cart was. I realize this is for light weight (and the cart is all new for 2010) but I'd want a larger diameter/higher oil capacity cart in there. I like the heavier open bath Marz damper.