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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been thinking about trying a Speedball/Joplin for sometime now and found one on eBay. I read this forum regularly and am aware of the issues surrounding the Speedball, but since I don' t mind getting in and fixing things I pulled the trigger and bought a Maverick Speedball R. I cleaned and lubed it per the manual and when I installed it there was not enough clearance between the bottom of my Fizik Gobi XM and the actuator arm (Maverick ML7 frame, size M). I have my old Selle Italia Flite that I put on, did a quick adjustment of the arm and went for a test ride.

So now I find that I really like the benefit of the dropper seatpost and want to keep it, but I want to use the Gobi XM. I have tried every possible angle of the actuator arm and cannot get enough clearance to keep the post from dropping every time I put weight on the saddle. Has anyone done any mod to shorten the actuator arm? Did Maverick/Crank Bros. change the design on later models (I am assuming I have an early model)?
 

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This is a classical issue with some saddles. Mine is WTB rocket, perfect, enough of space, but I tried a Devo .. the same issue. The only solution is to cut the lever and drill a new hole for the screw, or try another saddle.
 

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I have a speedball with a Gobi XM installed on it, and it's working for me. I've replaced the top screw on the actuator arm by a flat one, to save about 1mm. Then use the adjustment screw (bottom of the arm) to set max angle of the arm, and with that configuration no issue with my speedball :thumbsup:.
Sometime I 'd like to have a few more cm of travel, but for most cases it's enough. Maybe I'll upgrade to a Joplin 4' one day....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the advice...

It does look like a flatter bolt head would help, though I may still have to shave a millimeter off of the arm. Looking closely at the saddle clearance, I should be able to use my Dremel tool and grind a little channel in the underside of the saddle.
 

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to gain more clearance and easier reach under my saddle i just bend the lever down - 3 bent levers and no breakages yet ... (don't try this without an adult present!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
By "bending the lever" I assume you are referring to the non-remote model, and not in some way bending the actuator arm (can that even be done?).

In the next week or so I'll be replacing the top bolt with a flatter headed bolt and cutting the actuator down just a bit. While I am at it I'll be grinding a little groove for the cable to sit in and replacing the stock washer with one from an old derailleur which has a groove in it also. That way the whole assembly that holds the cable will sit lower. Fingers crossed, hoping it'll work. It's worth a shot since I really like the Gobi XM. And if I mess it up I can always buy a new remote kit and start over. :D
 

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By "bending the lever" I assume you are referring to the non-remote model, and not in some way bending the actuator arm (can that even be done?).

In the next week or so I'll be replacing the top bolt with a flatter headed bolt and cutting the actuator down just a bit. While I am at it I'll be grinding a little groove for the cable to sit in and replacing the stock washer with one from an old derailleur which has a groove in it also. That way the whole assembly that holds the cable will sit lower. Fingers crossed, hoping it'll work. It's worth a shot since I really like the Gobi XM. And if I mess it up I can always buy a new remote kit and start over. :D
I just cut a small groove in the bottom of my wtb saddle to accomodate the fit. It doesn't seem to affect the seat at all. I can understand the consternation of cutting a new saddle though, mine was old so I figured what the heck, worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
that did the trick...., but

I changed to stock binder bolt to a pan-head bolt, and used my Dremel tool to grind a channel in the bottom of the sadde. With the actuator arm adjusted all the way back there is enough clearance and the system works with my Gobi XM, my rear is now happy. :thumbsup:

But.... the extreme angle of the actuator arm means that I have to have the cable tension set very high and that has lead to my seat unintentionally dropping just a bit a few times every ride. :madman: Not very much, but I do notice it. I believe I'll have to shave some of the actuator arm off after all, so it can be set back to a better angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So to close out this thread....

I did end up having to shave a few millimeters off of the actuator arm. That in addition to switching the stock pinch bolt to a panhead, and cutting a groove in the bottom of the saddle has made the Speedball R work flawlessly with my favorite saddle, the Gobi XM.

A couple of observations:
1. Having a shorter actuator arm increases the force required to move it (thank you to my college physics professor for the explanation). This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it has definitely stiffened up the action of the remote lever.

2. Looking at the angle of the cable over the edge of the actuator arm as it is pulled, I can see where the cable is subjected to being bent over the edge. This with the added force required from the lever will lead to premature cable wear. To me this isn't a big deal since replacement is very simple, and perhaps when it comes time I will spend a few minutes smoothing the back top edge of the arm.

Here are a couple of pictures of the finished work. Ride on.
 

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