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As far as I know, the brake rotor is in the same location on both 142 and 142+. The difference is the drive side (the location of the cassette) is moved further away from the brake side on the 142+ to make the spokes on the drive side, the same angle as the non-drive side. If you switch from 142+ to 142, the high and low adjustment on the derailer need to be adjusted to the new location. Then the cable will need to be adjusted as well.
Thanks. I understand the 2mm difference on the drive side, but I keep hearing about a BRAKE adjustment too and was wondering why a brake adjustment would be called for if the brake rotor on 142 and 142+ are in the same location.:confused:
 

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I've had mine 'rebuilt/fixed' under warranty and so far so good. It's really wet and muddy out there at the moment so will see how it goes.

Feels better than when it was brand new though. Sadly i couldn't pick the wheel up myself so didn't get to ask what work was carried out.
 

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Lots of talk about the stock wheels and hubs that come on the Specialized epic 29er. I believe all the models except the S-works is equiped with the same set up. I am not a expert but I think if your spokes are correctly tensioned and relieved the hoops and spokes should give resonalbe service. (don't trust the factory build) The rear hub may need more attention in order to get good longjevity out of it. I took it apart and this is what I found

This is what the axel looks like. It spins on two cartrige bearings

This is the freehub end with the cartridge bearing removed

I had to made a special tool to remove the freehub. This is what it looks like. It has 15 pts of engagement

The hub only has two pawls or what ever they are called. They are easely removed and could be replaced

The freehub runs on 27 little individual ball bearings towards the center of the hub and 25 to the outside

The hub is easy to get apart to repalce the cartridge bearings. The freehub ball bearings are ease as well but you do need to get/make the correct tool. Once again I am no expert but if anyone wants this rear hub to last I would think it need to be kept clean and well lubed. Thanks again SlowerJoe for the spare. Hope I don't need it but it is nice to have.

If any one know of a way to upgrade this freehub please let me know. I did not remove the freehub from the hub as I do not have the corect allen. It takes a large allen from the non drive side I believe.

Sweet……….
Hi

I managed to hammer out the axle, but only for about one inch.

Should I hammer more, or get the wheel to LBS?

The point is that I have another Hi-Lo hub and I want to swap internals in order to get a 135 spacing instead of 142

Thanks to anyone helping ...
 

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It's a tight fit; you'll have to avoid damaging the rather delicate end of the axle by using a wooden block or similar. I find the big thing most often overlooked is that the hammering force goes into bouncing the spokes unless you support the hubshell on something solid and heavy; otherwise you're just hammering a pillow. Maybe a short length of the right size plastic pipe.

It's not actually 'legal' to hammer on the inner race of any bearing. The balls will indent the races and possibly shorten their life. So hammering this axle out pretty much assumes that you would be tossing the bearings, which is what any shop would do anyway, considering the labor/parts cost ratio. However, if you pop the seals off, clean the grease out and they don't feel notchy under end load you can probably repack and reuse.

Then the subject of refitting the axle without pounding it back in comes up. Usually you can come up with some combination of long bolt or threaded rod and nuts, washers and tubing to make a press like a BB or headset press.

Something like that can also be fabricated to press the axle out in the first place as it is just the same tool fitted to go the other direction. Considering that the cost of the bits to make the tool is cheaper than the bearings and can be adapted to other things, why hammer unless you're tossing the bearings anyway. Pressing doesn't put the same high impact loads on bearings that hammering does. Plus, making your own tools is creative and fun.
 

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Thanks; in the meanwhile, I went on hammering tapping on the handle of a little screwdriver inserted in the axle, in order to avoid tapping on the threaded axle, and the whole thing came out.
Tomorrow I will get a spare hub with 135 spacing and I will try to swap the internals.
 

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i know this thread's been quiet for a while, but now that it's spring, I have been back out on the bike and my stumpy comp 29er fsr is back to making the death rattle. I believe it is in the freehub once again - something that was fixed about midway through the riding season last year... i am hoping that between specialized and my LBS they can sort me out with a replacement hub. sounds like replacing the freehub body isn't a permanent solution, as the LBS attested - others have had 3 failures in a year.
 

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This is a known problem. Just get in touch with the shop you got it from. A few weeks ago we phoned into Specialized and got a new wheel for our customer. The engagement ring cracks or gets knocked loose. They just asked for the old one to be shipped back and sent us a brand new wheel. Granted they sent us a better wheel in replacement sans decals. Our customer left happy so kudos to Specialized for meeting our customer's needs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 

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Short Story: Anyone have a pawl for the Hi-Lo 142+ hub they could part with...sell or donate ;)...or even the entire freehub working or not? I can take it apart and use the pawl.

Long Story: My rear hub died about 6 months after I bought my bike (2012 Stumpy 29er Comp), instead of getting it fixed I bought a new wheelset...and figured I would get the stock rear hub fixed before the warranty was up...nope...never brought it in. :madman: Now it is out of warranty and I need to use them as a back-up while the replacement wheelset (Sun Ringle Charger) is sent in for warranty work...for the second time.
 

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Nope, no pawl. Sorry I wish I could help. And I don't mean to stir the pot or anything, but regardless of what Specialized's printed warranty term may state... I would still try my luck with having the shop contact Specialized on it. It is well-known those are often defective hubs, maybe they'll be able to help you out still? I had an 08 stumpy with a rear wheel that started popping spokes often, almost every ride I'd lose one. After over 2 years past purchase I had my shop take a look at the wheel. Next thing I knew Spec sent the shop a whole new rear wheel. YMMV, but in my experience Spec often goes out of their way to keep a customer happy. Good luck.
 

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yeah - seems like you might be able to get some help still. i'm just under the 1 year period but my shop didn't even check the date of purchase when I called - i have a new wheel on the way from specialized... not sure what exactly. hopefully with an upgraded hub.
 
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