[jrob1775]

I just ordered a 2011 Specialized Epic 29er Expert EVO R and understand that the stock Formula hub is not very good (poor engagement and heavy). I intend to build up a race wheelset and use the stock one for training. Here's where the problem comes in. Since Specialized uses their own 142+ which places the cassette 2mm farther out on the hub, I don't want to adjust the rear der. when I switch back and forth. Has anyone withe the new Epic come up with a solution to this? Can you space the cassette farther out on an aftermarket hub to match the 142+? The only soution that I can come up with is to spring for the high end Rovals which I really don't want to do since I am a bigger guy and am worried about durability. They are also a lot of $$$

Thanks in advance for the advice,:thumbsup:
Jeff

 

[Burnt-Orange]

you cant space out the cassette - the lock ring will not catch
might want to change the hub in the stock wheelset
or buy a better training set if you are a big guy it is only a matter of time before you taco the front wheel
sorry to be a downer
SJ

 

[Blade-Runner]

I am/had the same issue. My race wheels are a set of I9 ultra lights, so I ended up ordering a set of the Roval Control SL carbon wheels.

I bought I9s 142+ adapter for the ultra lishts, but like you stated it was a pain to adjust the rear derailleur and rear brake.

 

[Burnt-Orange]

still waiting on my 135 carbon rovals
already have a 142 adapter for them
my other rims are 19 classics with alpine 3 spokes and flow rims
heavy but bullet proof
I also like to just toss on a different set of wheels and go

SJ

 

[abbeytrails]

Sorry to threadjack but all this talk about the stock wheelset being soft has me a little concerned!

 

[jrob1775]

All this talk about the stock wheelset being soft has me a little concerned!

Yeah same here:madman:

I was hoping to get away with the stock wheelset for one season, then upgrade next year when there are more options for 142. With all the talk about these wheels being heavy, weak, and having poor engagement, I'm starting to rethink that strategy.

Does anyone want to buy a stock wheelset...REAL CHEAP???

 

[Lafawnduh]

I have a 29er comp and plan on using the stock set up. I even have a spare rear hub (thanks Slowerjoe) in the event of rear hub problems. I would love a sweet $400.00 rear hub but not in the cards at this time. Any way Specialized tec department told me the stock rear hub is made by Joy-tech. If you look at Halo hubs they look the same as well. Specialized clams a 10 degree engagement on the stock hub and that is what I have been riding so the stock hub should serve me fine if it proves to be durable. I have been trying to find a upgrade to the freehub on the stock hub but no luck so far. Hopefully more manufactures will come out with a 12x142+ . Now if the snow would just melt outside my door I could ride my bike instead of just talk about it

 

[Lafawnduh]

I am not a wheel expert but I would think the stock wheel should provide at lease some level of longevity. I have very few miles on my stock epic 29er wheels but when I first got the bike I re-tensioned the front wheel and on the rear I removed each nipple and lubed the threads then basically rebuilt it. My stock spoke tension was very low and I am sure if I rode the wheels that way I would experience problems after only a few hundred miles. Also if you look at the link below the Halo hubs look just like the Specialized stock 12x142+ hubs and they give simple directions on how to lube the freehub. May help the hub last a bit longer.

http://www.halorims.com/halo-halorims_techinfo.php

 

[Lafawnduh]

Lots of talk about the stock wheels and hubs that come on the Specialized epic 29er. I believe all the models except the S-works is equiped with the same set up. I am not a expert but I think if your spokes are correctly tensioned and relieved the hoops and spokes should give resonalbe service. (don't trust the factory build) The rear hub may need more attention in order to get good longjevity out of it. I took it apart and this is what I found

This is what the axel looks like. It spins on two cartrige bearings

This is the freehub end with the cartridge bearing removed

I had to made a special tool to remove the freehub. This is what it looks like. It has 15 pts of engagement

The hub only has two pawls or what ever they are called. They are easely removed and could be replaced

The freehub runs on 27 little individual ball bearings towards the center of the hub and 25 to the outside

The hub is easy to get apart to repalce the cartridge bearings. The freehub ball bearings are ease as well but you do need to get/make the correct tool. Once again I am no expert but if anyone wants this rear hub to last I would think it need to be kept clean and well lubed. Thanks again SlowerJoe for the spare. Hope I don't need it but it is nice to have.

If any one know of a way to upgrade this freehub please let me know. I did not remove the freehub from the hub as I do not have the corect allen. It takes a large allen from the non drive side I believe.

Sweet……….

 

[herothedog]

I'm converting a Hope II hub for the 142+ through axle. I'm told this is going to work, but can't say if it is or not. I have some doubts from some photos I have seen.

 

[PAmtbiker]

Just got my Epic. The rear hub is crap. I was planning on building a set of race wheels as well. I may just order a second DT 240 rear hub and rebuild the rear wheel of the stock set with that instead of trying to screw around with derailleur and brake adjustments all the time. I'd love a set of carbon Rovals to race on, but I just spent all my money on the bike. No more for $1500 wheels... shame

 

[jrob1775]

I just ordered a 2011 Specialized Epic 29er Expert EVO R and understand that the stock Formula hub is not very good (poor engagement and heavy). I intend to build up a race wheelset and use the stock one for training. Here's where the problem comes in. Since Specialized uses their own 142+ which places the cassette 2mm farther out on the hub, I don't want to adjust the rear der. when I switch back and forth. Has anyone withe the new Epic come up with a solution to this? Can you space the cassette farther out on an aftermarket hub to match the 142+? The only soution that I can come up with is to spring for the high end Rovals which I really don't want to do since I am a bigger guy and am worried about durability. They are also a lot of $$$

Thanks in advance for the advice,:thumbsup:
Jeff

I'm leaning towards Industry Nine. From what I read they are incredible wheels and have all kinds of color options. Does anyone have any expirience with Industry Nine?

J.

 

[the evil bunny]

I had to made a special tool to remove the freehub.

I have a Specialized Hi Lo rear hub on my Stumpjumper (see here). Apart from the axle (mine it's QR) it looks very similar to yours. After 100 miles the freewheel developed a clunking sound, so I'd like to disassemble it and see what's going on. What's the tool you made to remove the freehub? Any idea about the noise I'm hearing? Thank you.

 

[Lafawnduh]

I had to turn this tool down and remove two of the teeth. I did it by hand on a belt sander. Good luck!

http://cgi.ebay.com/PARK-FR-8-BMX-F...014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eaf072676

 

[TurnerConvert]

I'm leaning towards Industry Nine. From what I read they are incredible wheels and have all kinds of color options. Does anyone have any expirience with Industry Nine?

J.

I just got a set of wheels from Project 321 (front wheel is a Lefty hub) - the rear wheel uses a custom shell but the internals are industry nine. The engagement is instant, so it gets a big thumbs up from me. Only potential downside is how loud they are - definitely no stealth mode on the trail if you are coasting. I don't have any meaningful ride time on them yet and I certainly can't give any long term durability report, but the hubs themselves are beautiful

 

[the evil bunny]

I had to turn this tool down and remove two of the teeth. I did it by hand on a belt sander. Good luck!

http://cgi.ebay.com/PARK-FR-8-BMX-F...014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eaf072676

Uhm... I guess I'll take the wheel to a mechanic

Thank you

 

[dpastore22]

As already stated, the stock hub is junk, engagement is terrible.

It blows my mind that Specialized would spec $4,000 plus bikes with such a crappy hub.

I'm looking to build up some race rims as well, I don't have the money for the Rovals so I'm interested here feedback about other options.

 

[PAmtbiker]

It blows my mind that Specialized would spec $4,000 plus bikes with such a crappy hub.

I'm actually not surprised. All the big manufacturers do it. Save money in places that people don't notice until they've purchased the bike and ridden it a bunch of times so you can put shinier things in places where they do. Look at the drivetrain on the Expert 29ers... X0 rear mech and crank x7 front mech, and x9 shifter, with an XT cassette.

 

[dpastore22]

I'm actually not surprised. All the big manufacturers do it. Save money in places that people don't notice until they've purchased the bike and ridden it a bunch of times so you can put shinier things in places where they do. Look at the drivetrain on the Expert 29ers... X0 rear mech and crank x7 front mech, and x9 shifter, with an XT cassette.

I totally understand trying to meet certain price points, but as you pointed some of these parts make no sense!

The KMC chain is junk, I litterally blew 2 links on it after my 3rd ride. The crank on all the Epic 29ers including the Sworks looks low budget and as I mentioned the hub engagnement sux.

The worst part is, I LOVE my Carbon Comp. The brain is amazing!!! I would've spent more money for upgrades in these areas, but there really not there with the Expert model.

Just my 2 cents! back to hub options

 

[TurnerConvert]

I'm actually not surprised. All the big manufacturers do it. Save money in places that people don't notice until they've purchased the bike and ridden it a bunch of times so you can put shinier things in places where they do. Look at the drivetrain on the Expert 29ers... X0 rear mech and crank x7 front mech, and x9 shifter, with an XT cassette.

Actually, if it were an XT cassette, that would be OK. The one spec'd on the website is the HG81, which best as I can tell is an SLX-grade cassette. That said, upgrading any one of those parts isn't too expensive. And honestly, they all perform reasonably well. Whereas, having the stock rear hub be such a low quality component is really not acceptable since having the rear hub fail doesn't just mean buying a new rear hub, but having the entire rear wheel rebuilt as well. :madman: