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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So how big of a roll are the spacers going to play in my single speed conversion of my Shimano freehub. In a cassette the outer cog is knurled for a ratcheting effect with the lock ring. Is something with that ratcheting mechanism necessary? Just using plain spacers won't really give you that locking mechanism. How about splined spacers v. plain round un-splined spacers? Most kits I've seen lookes to be plain round spacers so I imagine that the plain round spacers work just fine and you don't really need splined spacers?

Here is what I did for the first pass. I have a bunch of Bottom Bracket spacers that seems to be the right size for use on a hyperglide hub but not enough to tighten it down. I set those aside for now. Then I stripped down a couple of old cassettes for their spacers and use those instead. All the spacers are splined but they are plastic and don't really look like a very elegant solution.

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It'll work, maybe for a few rides, maybe for a few years. Longevity is probably the biggest unknown- There's not -much- sideload on a cog, but personally, for a permanent solution I choose the widest alloy spacer I can fit to make the proper chain line. Anything that moves eventually wears out. I'd hate to throw a chain and eat my stem or destroy my knee cap on a dropper lever because a soft, worn-out PVC spacer allowed juuuuuussst enough wobble of the cog.

Maybe I'm being pedantic.

I have a black-ano alloy Surly kit, IIRC on my Hope SS/T hub, have a 3mm, and a single 10mm inboard then an Endless KickAss cog, and a 5mm(?) one outboard. I don't like the idea of a bunch of little rings, but that's me. I do the same thing with stem spacers; a single 10mm vs a bunch of 2's and 3's <shrug>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It'll work, maybe for a few rides, maybe for a few years. Longevity is probably the biggest unknown- There's not -much- sideload on a cog, but personally, for a permanent solution I choose the widest alloy spacer I can fit to make the proper chain line. Anything that moves eventually wears out. I'd hate to throw a chain and eat my stem or destroy my knee cap on a dropper lever because a soft, worn-out PVC spacer allowed juuuuuussst enough wobble of the cog.

Maybe I'm being pedantic.
I'm with you there. I don't like the idea of a bunch of small spacers. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong spots because I can't find anything selling larger spacers. The polymer spacers being used between the cogs on a cassette I'm not too much worried that they will deform, but I'd rather have a couple of larger spacers instead of a bunch of small ones. Maybe I need to get Boone to custom make a couple of spacers for me.
 

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These are blingy and sexy.
These are the well-made, utilitarian spacers I have:
 

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So how big of a roll are the spacers going to play in my single speed conversion of my Shimano freehub. In a cassette the outer cog is knurled for a ratcheting effect with the lock ring. Is something with that ratcheting mechanism necessary? Just using plain spacers won't really give you that locking mechanism. How about splined spacers v. plain round un-splined spacers? Most kits I've seen lookes to be plain round spacers so I imagine that the plain round spacers work just fine and you don't really need splined spacers?

Here is what I did for the first pass. I have a bunch of Bottom Bracket spacers that seems to be the right size for use on a hyperglide hub but not enough to tighten it down. I set those aside for now. Then I stripped down a couple of old cassettes for their spacers and use those instead. All the spacers are splined but they are plastic and don't really look like a very elegant solution.

View attachment 1949112
I've use plastic PVC spacer for years - - - NO problem everything stays snug. I just make sure my cog has a WIDE base... Its that simple.............. go SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
These are blingy and sexy.
That's just what the Dr Ordered. Some purple ano spacers. I hated paying $50 for boring silver or black spacers. But I'll drop that on purple ano in a heartbeat.
 

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The Surly kit is great for adjustability but I have trouble keeping it from creaking when things get dirty. I end up favoring some cheapo ones that get the job done with fewer spacers. It’s also possible that I don’t tighten my lock ring enough but I swap cogs fairly often.


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I'm running a Q2 carbon fiber spacer kit I got on Amazon for $30, paired with a Wolf Tooth cog. First and last ring are aluminum. I paired it with a red ano lock ring that I had in my parts box. So far everything has been great. I make sure to wipe off the spacers before every ride to show off the sexy carbon bits.
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The Surly kit is great for adjustability but I have trouble keeping it from creaking when things get dirty. I end up favoring some cheapo ones that get the job done with fewer spacers. It’s also possible that I don’t tighten my lock ring enough but I swap cogs fairly often.


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you bring up a good point. lockring torque is 40Nm IIRC? do you guys use torque wrenches on your lockring? I don't have a torque wrench for my lockring yet and have been going on feel for years. But i also feel that i leave it on the looser side because i've stripped out cheap Aluminum lockrings before. My SSs currently have a surly lockring and a CK one.
 

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you bring up a good point. lockring torque is 40Nm IIRC? do you guys use torque wrenches on your lockring? I don't have a torque wrench for my lockring yet and have been going on feel for years. But i also feel that i leave it on the looser side because i've stripped out cheap Aluminum lockrings before. My SSs currently have a surly lockring and a CK one.
No torque wrench. I use steel lockrings and tighten them down real good.
 

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No torque wrench. I use steel lockrings and tighten them down real good.
Likewise. I seem to have better luck with the steel lockrings than the lighter weight ones. Regardless I still pull the wheel every so often and double check that it is it tight/snug. Most of the time I get a bit extra out of it.
 
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