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Discussion Starter #1
could dt swiss beee 2mm wrong?
could wheelpro.co.uk bee 2mm wrong too?

im laced up and the drive side has a huge slant to that side....

here are my measurements for my rim and hub:

laced them up according to the zinn book with a 3 cross pattern

i had purchased 16 spokes at 293mm and 16 spokes at 294mm

I used the 293 on the brake side and 294 on the drive side.....

now i have tightened the drive side nip's so the spoke is at the top of the nipple...
all the way through basically......

im thinking i could have used 292 on the drive side.....

what solution am i missing???? any help would be great to drag me out of this depression....
 

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Feeding your addiction
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Feeding your addiction
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nicolicious said:
thanks for the quick reply

hope pro2 ss
I'm coming up with 293 for both sides. There's a chance you can make it work as-is, but you may run out of threads on the drive side.

Larry
www.mtnhighcyclery.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
can i have a hint?

how do wheel builders make it work??? ive read that you arent supposed to go through the
thread an alloy nipple or they will breakk.... am i better off just getting some 293s for the drive side or should i just keep threading to get the hub centerer? and dished???

right now im off to the right side by lots....
 

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nicolicious said:
could dt swiss beee 2mm wrong?
could wheelpro.co.uk bee 2mm wrong too?
did both calculators give you the same numbers?

im laced up and the drive side has a huge slant to that side....
what do you mean, a "huge slant" to the drive side?

can you post pics?

double double check your lacing again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yes and maybe???

yes, both calculators gave me the 294 #, the left side was 293.xxx so i got half 293's and half 294's/.....


and maybe i screwed up the lacing..... not sure how bc it was the last set and there is only 8 holes left.... you know what i mean....

unless i fudged up set 2, i did it right.... ill check again...
 

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That "huge slant" looks right to me. You DO know rear wheels (and disc brake front wheels) are dished don't you?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
foh

i knw they are supposed to be a little off set but mine looks extremely lopsided.... but than again i am in no way experienced ......

but what about being at the end of the nipple?

thats as tight as it can get with out running the spoke through the top of the nipple....
 

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Yup the Hope Pro 2 should be dishless.

On my very first wheelbuild, which also happened to be a Pro 2 SS, I laced it 2x instead of 3x, not realizing that the very first of the 3 crosses happens pretty much right at the hub flange. At first I thought I bought the wrong length of spokes, but it turned out it was just a silly mistake due to my lack of experience at the time. I dunno if that has anything to do with the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
nspace wins!!!!!!

thanks everyone.....

i am a tard and on the left side i did a 2 cross instead of a 3.... just fixed and it tightening up nicely..... i used leonard zinn's book and he;s got all these crazy appendix links in the book.... guess i didnt follow it too closely.... not bad, only took me 11hrs and 42min for one wheel.....
gonna do my front another day...

thats probly the coolest thing ive dont on my bike yet.... thanks again...

and the numbers i got were from meltingfeather.....

i guess he was mistaken.... i didnt measure, just used this forum....

thanks again.... now to the true the wheel....
 

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Glad I was able to help. The first time I did it, I never really clued in that the first cross took place so close to the hub flange, its hardly noticeable... While lacing it, I just assumed I was doing it right because it looked so similar to another already built wheel I had as a reference. I felt so silly at the time, but for a first build with the things to pay attention to, I guess it was easy to overlook. I can tell you one thing, you'll never do it again!

Post pics of the finish build :D
 

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nicolicious said:
thanks everyone.....

i am a tard and on the left side i did a 2 cross instead of a 3.... just fixed and it tightening up nicely..... i used leonard zinn's book and he;s got all these crazy appendix links in the book.... guess i didnt follow it too closely.... not bad, only took me 11hrs and 42min for one wheel.....
gonna do my front another day...

thats probly the coolest thing ive dont on my bike yet.... thanks again...

and the numbers i got were from meltingfeather.....

i guess he was mistaken.... i didnt measure, just used this forum....

thanks again.... now to the true the wheel....
Yeah, knew something funky was up when I saw that pic. If you had laced it correctly and with the longer spokes on the drive side like you said then if anything it would have been off to the other side. Glad you got it worked out.

Larry
www.mtnhighcyclery.com
 

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Way back in the day, I used to lace old school BMX high flange (Campy record track hubs) with something refered at the time to 'race lace'. It was 5 cross with all heads in. The idea was an easier wheel to rebuild between motos when you tore out 5,6,..10 spokes with someones pedals...because all spokes were inserted from the inside out.

Because of the big flange, and cross angle, the first cross was actually just a virtual cross (the line of the spokes crossed, but the actual spokes never touched. The spoke layed on the flange 'inside' of the spoke it was 'crossing'. It always took multiple looks/checks to make sure that each spoke was crossed correctly.
 
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