Those spring calculators always seem to go on the heavy side. I'm just about 200 and I ride a 400#. You want to make sure you get the correct sagged eye to eye, and I could only get it with a 400. I ran the 450 for a while and it was good, but it wasn't quite right. Make sure your sagged eye to eye is 8.5" - 8.6" on the Socom and you'll be in the sweet spot. Having the right spring makes all the difference.
Those spring calculators always seem to go on the heavy side. I'm just about 200 and I ride a 400#. You want to make sure you get the correct sagged eye to eye, and I could only get it with a 400. I ran the 450 for a while and it was good, but it wasn't quite right. Make sure your sagged eye to eye is 8.5" - 8.6" on the Socom and you'll be in the sweet spot. Having the right spring makes all the difference.
The tftuned one seems to give lighter spring rates than I see people running by about 100#, at least on the Socom. Could be that we're all oversprung though!
I've always had kind of a hard time using the sag measurement on a DH bike to determine spring rate, although it's worse with forks. I know that sitting on my bike you barely compress the forks at all, but this isn't really an accurate representation of sag on the trail. Do you wind up sitting when you take the sag measurement? Standing?
The tftuned one seems to give lighter spring rates than I see people running by about 100#, at least on the Socom. Could be that we're all oversprung though!
I've always had kind of a hard time using the sag measurement on a DH bike to determine spring rate, although it's worse with forks. I know that sitting on my bike you barely compress the forks at all, but this isn't really an accurate representation of sag on the trail. Do you wind up sitting when you take the sag measurement? Standing?
I've found that taking sag measurements while you are in your riding position gets the best results. Ride your bike around normally and come to a stop, support yourself in that position and have a buddy take the measurement. Taking the measurement in a seated position will get you close, but we don't shred trails sitting down. For fork sag, I've been measuring out the recommended sag on the fork and marking it on the sanction tube with a permanent marker. You can look down and see if you are in the right place as you are cruising around and the mark will rub off in a few minutes. There could be better ways, but these tricks work for me.
I was going to buy a couple of springs and experiment next season. I'm running a Swinger X6, which I actually really like, but it does feel oversprung to me. I figured a 350, but I guess I'll pick up a 250 and 300 as well. Steel springs are cheap compared with the cost of the bike. Thanks for the tips for setting sag...I'll give it a shot.
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