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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We did a really wet, clay, mud, sand ride on Wednesday - I mean torential downpour - so I decided to strip my Trance down to the bones (also hurt my thumb the week before and although it had been doing good work and not the 2 rides have screwed it back up) so It kinda gives me something to do (and not ride to maybe hurt it some more) cleaning it up.

Now I was wondering..... the rear shifter cable runs almost uninterupted on the Trance, stopping and opening up once it reaches the rear triangle. Has anyne though of drilling out the stop and runnning the cable all the way to the last stop before the RD? Just thought I'd ask before I start building her back up. Very happy with her, only looking to maybe get the MAX bearing kit so I don't have to worry about picking down the rear end again. Other than that I had the most fun and confidence since I got the bike.

I'm still waiting to hear if I paint the frame if I loose the lifetime warranty and I'm guessing if I drill out the stops that I will so if I do decide to go that way guess I'll do some fresh AND proper paint as well.
 

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LyNx said:
Has anyne though of drilling out the stop and runnning the cable all the way to the last stop before the RD? Just thought I'd ask before I start building her back up.

I'm still waiting to hear if I paint the frame if I loose the lifetime warranty and I'm guessing if I drill out the stops that I will so if I do decide to go that way guess I'll do some fresh AND proper paint as well.
Thank you for posting this nice picture. :)

Are you sure you won't loose warranty when you start drilling?

Regards,
 

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Been there done that

Check here....... http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=80429&highlight=trance+cable+guides

These same hollow bolts will fit the end of regular cable housing too. They allow
you to run any type/brand of cable/housing.

To be a little more clear these bolts are only used on 'U' brakes. BMX, old bikes etc...
These bolts sit vertically on the top arch where the cable housing stops and the cable
gets attached to the brake. They were designed to stop cable housing.

P.S. You DON'T have to drill out the cable guides. These will slide right in and the 'shoulder' of the bolt sits perfectly on the guide.= No warranty issues.

-Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
HomegrownMN said:
Check here....... http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=80429&highlight=trance+cable+guides

These same hollow bolts will fit the end of regular cable housing too. They allow
you to run any type/brand of cable/housing.

To be a little more clear these bolts are only used on 'U' brakes. BMX, old bikes etc...
These bolts sit vertically on the top arch where the cable housing stops and the cable
gets attached to the brake. They were designed to stop cable housing.

P.S. You DON'T have to drill out the cable guides. These will slide right in and the 'shoulder' of the bolt sits perfectly on the guide.= No warranty issues.

-Joe
Thanks for the reply Joe, figured you might be one to answer - your suggestion has gotten me to thinking about another possible solution. I got impatient and just went ahead and ran the new, softer cable I had gotten to run for the RD and didn't worry about trying to run complete housing. I'm hoping the softer cable will bend and slide through the junction better and not just "bunch" up like the original. Shortened up both FD and RD cables as well. As soon as I finished re-building her I'm gona try to get a photo of her as she's as close to "finalized" as she will be till I afford the RP3 and new Wheelset.

Xioz thanks for the comment, guess it helps when it's what you do for a living. :)
 

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don't wait...

LyNx said:
she's as close to "finalized" as she will be till I afford the RP3 and new Wheelset.
Glad to be of assistance
You know, to be honest w/ you I don't think the RP3 would be any better than having your
Float R 'PUSHED' and valved for your body weight, riding style, bike etc....
The lever for propedal is very slight if anything. It's hard to tell the difference and the Maestro suspension does such a good job, I leave it in the middle setting all the time.
Just my 2 cents, but I will be having my RP3 pushed when the time comes, and from what I hear, pushing the RP3 makes the lever actually usefull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
HomegrownMN said:
Glad to be of assistance
You know, to be honest w/ you I don't think the RP3 would be any better than having your
Float R 'PUSHED' and valved for your body weight, riding style, bike etc....
The lever for propedal is very slight if anything. It's hard to tell the difference and the Maestro suspension does such a good job, I leave it in the middle setting all the time.
Just my 2 cents, but I will be having my RP3 pushed when the time comes, and from what I hear, pushing the RP3 makes the lever actually usefull.
Well actually the reason for going for the RP3 are two fold. One I have one lined up if it's still available for a very good price and 2 the FloatR would fit onto my old Coil EX frame which I'm interested in building up for fun and to see what it could really ride like with proper components - FloatR and DUKE XC both off the T3. AND when it comes times to get the RP3 serviced I'll get it PUSHED and stil have a shock to use while it's away.

Oh and doesn't she look so much better all together :)
 

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HomegrownMN said:
Glad to be of assistance
You know, to be honest w/ you I don't think the RP3 would be any better than having your
Float R 'PUSHED' and valved for your body weight, riding style, bike etc....
The lever for propedal is very slight if anything. It's hard to tell the difference and the Maestro suspension does such a good job, I leave it in the middle setting all the time.
Just my 2 cents, but I will be having my RP3 pushed when the time comes, and from what I hear, pushing the RP3 makes the lever actually usefull.
While lurking for the past couple months preceeding my recent Trance purchase, I read about PUSH Industries and that a few of you had sent your shock for an overhaul/tuning. Can you guys direct me to some good threads or websites describing what the guys at PUSH do...and some commentary whether it makes a noticeable difference?

HomegrownMN: how are your laserlite wheels holding up? My CFO (aka wife) has cut-off my bike budget for now, but i'm pondering and scheming a new wheelset. i'm light (145# with gear) and ride technical east coast xc. dropping a bit of weight would be nice. Other thoughts are a build of hope/dt4.1/revolutions. i'd like to steer clear of custom wheels (xtr or mavic).

Lynx: thanks for the tear-down photos.
 

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Info....

shootz said:
While lurking for the past couple months preceeding my recent Trance purchase, I read about PUSH Industries and that a few of you had sent your shock for an overhaul/tuning. Can you guys direct me to some good threads or websites describing what the guys at PUSH do...and some commentary whether it makes a noticeable difference?

HomegrownMN: how are your laserlite wheels holding up? My CFO (aka wife) has cut-off my bike budget for now, but i'm pondering and scheming a new wheelset. i'm light (145# with gear) and ride technical east coast xc. dropping a bit of weight would be nice. Other thoughts are a build of hope/dt4.1/revolutions. i'd like to steer clear of custom wheels (xtr or mavic).

Lynx: thanks for the tear-down photos.
Just check the "lets talk about shocks" forum for all of your PUSH questions.
As for the wheels, I have had no problems w/them and I'm 190lbs 6' 2" . I constantly
check them and have had no issues. They are light as I would trust.
I found the whole wheelset, brand new, built up for under $300.00 off of the classifieds a year ago.
 

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HomegrownMN said:
As for the wheels, I have had no problems w/them and I'm 190lbs 6' 2" . I constantly
check them and have had no issues. They are light as I would trust.
I found the whole wheelset, brand new, built up for under $300.00 off of the classifieds a year ago.
great. you read my mind...feathery light and modest cost. i'm hoping to swap wheels while i can still recoop some $$ for the stock DT/317 build.
 
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