Already got my new air fork on the way. Im going to be replacing every drivetrain component to run a 1x10. Im getting new tires and plan on replacing the headset and stem down the road as well. I want to keep everything stock length so I need help figuring out the length of the crank arms, stem, etc. Also I need help figuring out what tire size I can run with no performance losses. The tire that came on my bike was a 29x2.0 but the kenda nevegal I want to get is 29x2.2. Would it be possible to run that size without any performance losses or am I stuck on 29x2.0 unless I get a different wheel set? also any general advice about all the upgrades I want to do is welcome. Thanks in advance!
The length of the crank arm should be stamped on the inside of the crank arm. A lot of times the stem will have the length marked on it somewhere as well. If it doesn't, just measure from the center of the steerer tube to the center of the handlebar for the length. You can run the 2.2 Nevegals on your stock wheels.
When im done with the upgrades i will have roughly 1400 dollars into the bike including the original price of the bike. and it will be set up exactly how i want it to be. if i bought a new bike i would want one with a 1x10 and a decent air fork which will run any where from 1500 to 2500 for the same type of frame(not a carbon frame). So its not like im spending more money than i would with a brand new bike and im probably saving some change. also ive always wanted to have a custom bike and built it myself so stop crushing my dreams.
That is basically my exact same situation. For the amount i put in my bike plus the price I paid for it I have a much nicer bike that I custom chose over 2 years of riding and figuring out what I wanted than I could have bought for that price.
Follow your dreams
Check for the stamps or writing on the components. Usually medium and large frames have 175's and smalls have 170's. Not always though.
By performance loss, I assume you mean loss due to increased rotating weight of bigger tires?
I used to share the same sentiment and be concerned about this, but I think you'll find the traction benefits outweigh the weight penalties (literally and figuratively).
The size of the tire makes a difference ,but the tread design makes a bigger one. What performance do you not want to lose? Traction, speed,long wearing? The Nevegals are kind of slow in my opinion.
I probably should have said durability rather than performance. Im concerned that if i change the tire width it might screw with how good the bead is able to seat in the rim and if it will pinch tubes more often and things along those lines.
I just looked at your link to the stock bike. I'm curious why you plan to replace your entire drivetrain in order to set it up as a 1X? Why not remove the large and small chainrings and the front derailleur and shifter? Unless you buy a dedicated 1X drivetrain like SRAM XX1, that's what you'll be doing with the new drivetrain anyway.
I'm also curious why you plan to replace the headset and stem? Is there something wrong with the originals? If you need a different length stem, I could understand, but replacing it with the exact same length seems pointless.
The tire issue has been covered here, but I will second the opinion that Nevegals are sloooow.
Im surprised more people dont notice it but my chain rings are riveted to the crank. I have a retardedly low end drivetrain even though its supposed to be a entry level bike I would definitely expect more for the money. It needs a new shadow plus RD and a 10 speed cassette and chain with a new 10 speed shifter and then it needs a new crank and since im getting a new crank i want to go for a external BB which will come with a lot of the cranks that require external BBs. As far the stem goes thats just to help reach my goal of eventually having a 100% frame up custom built bike. Ive wanted to build up from a frame since Ive gotten into bikes and now with the means to do so im definitely going to do so. When I bought the bike I didnt have the means to built custom and thats why I bought a entry level complete but I see no need to get a new frame and build it up the right way when there is nothing wrong with my frame just the components that came on it are lousy.
im in the same boat with my talon 5 27.5... i opted for the cheaper model mostly because i couldnt afford the $1400 model, and thought the model in the middle was ugly lol...
i will be buying a new fork soon, and the stock drivetrain that came with is garbage, but imma run it til it breaks, then try goin for 2x10 drivetrain with new wheelset and components.. i want to go with a wider bar and shorter stem too, i think.... hope it doesnt mess too much up. lol
Did the same thing. Bought a fuel 70 and rode it for a season. Next season I upgraded the fork. The following season I changed the wheel set. Then went from a Alivio 3x8 to a X9 3x9 complete with XT crankset/BB. Christmas and birthdays are great to offset the costs as well as swap meets! As it stands, the frame is the only original part of my 2005 Fuel.
Same thing here Stone. That crankset with the welded rings is super heavy. Not just that but the bottom bracket. I couldn't believe how heavy it was when I had it off.
I ended up going with these but note; they only come in 170's which happened to be what I needed. Really light weight though.
wow im glad you posted that. thats 30 bucks cheaper than what i was gunna get ( a raceface chester) and i was gunna get a 170 too. the only thing is i push the bar for an xc bike quite often so im not sure if i should get the chester which is specific to DH and FR so it will be stronger.
Tough call. I went with these deus because its really light and cheap. I can't tell you how stiff it is compared to dh specific cranks but i'm pushing 200 geared up and I can tell you its a lot stiffer then my stock cranks.
One thing to be aware of though is that those cranks DO NOT come with the crank bolt. I ordered one through my lbs when they put it on. So factor in another 8 bucks or so. Also it was 69 when I ordered a few months ago so I wouldn't worry about that sale expiring sign either
Well thats 200 grams less then the chester so im definitely getting that one. what size bolts do i need for the chain ring (ill have the same crank and chainring as you)? i saw some on bluesky that were 10mm but idk if thats too long?
I am in the same "club"..buy entrylevel with a smart frame choice...RIDE..Build>>RIDE >>Build..Ride More..Build More..repete until complete..If ever
Oh yeah, I too use Christmas, B-Day, Father's Day, Valentines Day, my Wife B-day, 4th Of July.OH Halloween & Thanksgiving...all to get money or bike parts or GEAR!!! I tell all that want to get me somehtig = Bike Stuff!!
Yea that is damn near a pound I lost just in the crank and chainrings in the upgrade. Another 3/4's of a lb in the cassette upgrade, chain, derail, and losing the other shifter and front derail.
I'm not 100% sure I think they might be 8mm. Those fit perfectly but if I want to put a bash on I need longer bolts.
This is the response I got from Raceface directly when I asked about the Crank Arm Bolts. "You can order the crank bolt from any local bike shop or directly from our website under small parts. You can order either the "ISIS M15 crank bolt" or if you want a self extracting bolt for tool-less crank removal, order the "EXI Puller Cap" and "EXI M15 Crank Bolt"
But like I said, I had the shop order the bolt so I dont know which one i have specifically.
I have a 100mm Manitou Tower Expert on my bike.
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