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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to take my rear wheel off to replace my brake pads, but the spindle is completely seized inside the axle. I lubed that sucker up the last time the wheel was off. So I'm not sure what happened. To add insult to injury, I rounded out the spindle while trying to break it free. So now my next option is to drill it out. Any other ideas??

I have a 2018 Ibis mojo3 with the 148 boost.

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Oh no. 😢. I had that problem with my husband’s bike today. I put something similar to WD-40 on it and let it sit for a bit. I needed to use a snipe and ended up bending some of the metal on the outer part of the axle and also had to stick a large Allen key into the axle and pound the whole thing out, but I finally got it. Cleaned it up real well, sanded down the axle where it seemed to be sticking and then greased it up really well and it’s still usable! Fingers crossed that same goes for you!
 

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Another option is to get a hacksaw and gently cut a slot into the non drive side axle. Use a wide flat head screw driver in the slot with a spanner tightened on the blade and gently but firmly undo.

Note that this issue has been caused by over tightening combined with damage of the internal hex. It is totally user error.

On a side note a alloy 6mm hex head is stupid ass for a high stress component that needs to be undo regularly. They should also put an external hex on the part so it can be ondone in the workshop without wearing the internal hex.

See attached photo of one i cut a slot into to undo because the previous owner rounded out the internal hex.

Now a internal hex does not immediately and instantly become rounded off. It is damaged over successive over torquing of the axle. You need to inspect the hex and replace the axle if you notice any wear. Dont wait unitl its this stuffed to replace it.

Black Grey Circle Carbon
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another option is to get a hacksaw and gently cut a slot into the non drive side axle. Use a wide flat head screw driver in the slot with a spanner tightened on the blade and gently but firmly undo.

Note that this issue has been caused by over tightening combined with damage of the internal hex. It is totally user error.

On a side note a alloy 6mm hex head is stupid ass for a high stress component that needs to be undo regularly. They should also put an external hex on the part so it can be ondone in the workshop without wearing the internal hex.

See attached photo of one i cut a slot into to undo because the previous owner rounded out the internal hex.

Now a internal hex does not immediately and instantly become rounded off. It is damaged over successive over torquing of the axle. You need to inspect the hex and replace the axle if you notice any wear. Dont wait unitl its this stuffed to replace it.

View attachment 1274467
This is super helpful! It seems odd and also annoying that I could have over-tightened it given that I used a torque wrench based on Ibis specs.

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This is super helpful! It seems odd and also annoying that I could have over-tightened it given that I used a torque wrench based on Ibis specs.

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If you have always used a torque wrench then it may be the hex is worn out due to over use and you haven't noticed the damage on the hex. Also look at depth of insertion of the tool. If not inserted enough that could cause wear. Sometimes the hex gets filled up with dirt and beeds cleaning prior to disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you have always used a torque wrench then it may be the hex is worn out due to over use and you haven't noticed the damage on the hex. Also look at depth of insertion of the tool. If not inserted enough that could cause wear. Sometimes the hex gets filled up with dirt and beeds cleaning prior to disassembly.
Thank you!!

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I've found that the factory torque specs for thru axles seem to be on the high side. I tried using a torque wrench and went by a factory torque spec...I don't remember exactly what the number is...but it was really tight. I don't think I would have been able to remove the axle with my mini tool. The aluminum used for these lightweight axles are pretty soft. What I usually do is I'll use whatever tool I keep in my pack. This way...I'll know that I'll be able to remove the axle when I'm on the trail. Good thing that this did not happen on the trail and you needed to fix a flat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's good to know! I'll keep that in mind when I replace the axle.

Omg....if I tried to fix a flat on the trail, this would have been a huge buzzkill!!

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Trek uses really soft alloy for their suspension bolts. Even with a good allen wrench I need to be really careful that it's properly inserted... and even then it still marks the alloy.

Good tools are the key !!
 

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What I usually do is I'll use whatever tool I keep in my pack. This way...I'll know that I'll be able to remove the axle when I'm on the trail. Good thing that this did not happen on the trail and you needed to fix a flat.
This is what I do too. It'll be under torqued per specs, but at least you'll know you can undo it on the trail.

I also do this with the lug nuts on my car after I have a tyre rotation done. That way I know I can change my own wheel with the lug wrench I have on board.
 

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Let us know how you get it fixed up. I would also be inclined to take it to a trusted shop as they have the tools and the tricks of the trade. For those using trail tools, I see the sense in this, but a friend recently crashed on a jump when the rear axle came loose, so you will need to be rechecking it often. I rarely flat so I would rather torque it. One solution would be to bring along a single long hex wrench, toss it in the bottom of your pack or tape it somewhere safe. Mini tools don't have much oomph, although I like the MT-1 better than most https://www.parktool.com/product/multi-tool-mt-1?category=Multi-Tools
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Let us know how you get it fixed up. I would also be inclined to take it to a trusted shop as they have the tools and the tricks of the trade. For those using trail tools, I see the sense in this, but a friend recently crashed on a jump when the rear axle came loose, so you will need to be rechecking it often. I rarely flat so I would rather torque it. One solution would be to bring along a single long hex wrench, toss it in the bottom of your pack or tape it somewhere safe. Mini tools don't have much oomph, although I like the MT-1 better than most https://www.parktool.com/product/multi-tool-mt-1?category=Multi-Tools
Update!
So we were able to get it off. Managed to pull the wheel away from the frame enough to expose the axle. Then we just cut it in half with a dremel and got the wheel off.

The kicker was that once we did that, we were able to turn the threaded part of the axle out.

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