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Wish I Were Riding said:
Does anybody know some place or some person willing to let me demo a small or preferably medium Niner like the One9 or Sir9? :confused:
I'm assuming you mean a person who will let you take one out on the trails for a true demo, but in case you mean a shop that'll let you just ride it around the block, I noticed yesterday that Mt Tam Bikes in Mill Valley had the SWEETEST One9 in the window. Tang, medium, WB IMV 100mm, King, FSA, Am Classic. Super nice build. No price tag...
 

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Roaring Mouse...

Wish I Were Riding said:
Does anybody know some place or some person willing to let me demo a small or preferably medium Niner like the One9 or Sir9? :confused:
has a Medium & Large SIR 9s for demo. Call Chris. I too was thinking of demoing a med SIR 9.
 

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Are you wanting to demo SS or geared?

I have small one9 and sir9. the sir is set up 1x9 with a reba. one9 is SS and pace rigid fork.

sounds like RR is the best bet if you actually ride a Med. What dimensions are you?
 

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tamjam said:
I'm assuming you mean a person who will let you take one out on the trails for a true demo, but in case you mean a shop that'll let you just ride it around the block, I noticed yesterday that Mt Tam Bikes in Mill Valley had the SWEETEST One9 in the window. Tang, medium, WB IMV 100mm, King, FSA, Am Classic. Super nice build. No price tag...
don't mean to crap on your post, but IMO, the WB IMV and Am Classic wheels significantly downgrade that build. Maybe I just need to lose some weight tho.

But back to the topic, I wouldn't mind finding a large EMD9 to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
rensho said:
Are you wanting to demo SS or geared?

I have small one9 and sir9. the sir is set up 1x9 with a reba. one9 is SS and pace rigid fork.

sounds like RR is the best bet if you actually ride a Med. What dimensions are you?
I would do either. I'm not saying I'd be any good on the SS, but I wouldn't mind. I would be using a Rohloff is I do end up going this route. Rigid would probably be better though so maybe SS?

I did send Roaring Mouse an email asking about their demo program this morning...
 

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If you're going to run a rohloff, you're better testing a geared bike.
My Reba has a poplock, so it is mostly rigid.

Riding a 17.5lb SS bike has NO resemblance to how a 23.5lb rigid Rohloff bike is going to ride. I'm very sure of this. The SIR9 is 22.5lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
rensho said:
If you're going to run a rohloff, you're better testing a geared bike.
My Reba has a poplock, so it is mostly rigid.

Riding a 17.5lb SS bike has NO resemblance to how a 23.5lb rigid Rohloff bike is going to ride. I'm very sure of this. The SIR9 is 22.5lbs.
I won't worry about the weight issue. I'm more looking for fit of the frame. I'm 5'8.5" (that .5 is important) with a 30" inseam. I wouldn't mind trying a small, I'm just a little worried that the 74* STA will be too steep for me.
 

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Wish I Were Riding said:
I won't worry about the weight issue. I'm more looking for fit of the frame. I'm 5'8.5" (that .5 is important) with a 30" inseam. I wouldn't mind trying a small, I'm just a little worried that the 74* STA will be too steep for me.
What aspect of the 74d STA are you concerned about? do you have a really long femur? At 30" inseam, it is hard to imagine, and this image would be ghoulish.
I assume you know what you're talking about here.

The weight is a huge issue, specifically in this case. You want to run a 9 lb rear wheel. You are about to test a 4 lb rear wheel. Trust me, whereas the SS's rear end constantly wants to take flight, the Rollie rear would feel constantly stuck in mud, in comparison.

It seems that I underestimated the added weight of the Rollie. My same SIR9 would be 26.5+lbs.

In either case, you're welcome to come down and try either one. I run Eggs. What weight are you?
 

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Hey, Rensho,

I'd love to check out the SIR9 at some point as well. (I'm looking for regular gears and some boing, so I think your setup would be perfect). And I run eggies (or candys, actually), so that'd work as well. What's the procedure? How much of what kind of beer is recommended demo fee? Or is there actual money involved (which is fine, just want to know)?

thanks
sasha
 

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grrrah said:
don't mean to crap on your post, but IMO, the WB IMV and Am Classic wheels significantly downgrade that build.
Crap away, doesn't bother me, but do you speak from personal experience? I see you ride a 26er, not a 29er. I've ridden neither the Magic nor the Am Classics, but there are enough good reviews on the 29er board for me to feel comfortable with either/both if I were considering buying that bike, and I have ridden my Reba enough to know that it leaves a enough to be desired for the Magic to be a contender.

grrrah said:
Maybe I just need to lose some weight tho.
We've never met, so I've got to assume from your comment you're a clyde and think the flyweight Am Classics wouldn't hold up to your weight? Perhaps. But I'm not sure how that translates into the IMV being a bad choice? I haven't come across "flexy" or "noodly" in any review I've seen about the fork.
 

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sashax said:
Hey, Rensho,

I'd love to check out the SIR9 at some point as well. (I'm looking for regular gears and some boing, so I think your setup would be perfect). And I run eggies (or candys, actually), so that'd work as well. What's the procedure? How much of what kind of beer is recommended demo fee? Or is there actual money involved (which is fine, just want to know)?

thanks
sasha
No money, please. If it is to be beer, make that Henry's rootbeer.

PM me and we'll set some'n up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
rensho said:
What aspect of the 74d STA are you concerned about? do you have a really long femur? At 30" inseam, it is hard to imagine, and this image would be ghoulish.
I assume you know what you're talking about here. What weight are you?
I weigh 185lbs. Maybe I do have long femurs? But I feel more comfortable on a bike with a slacker STA because I can balance my longer torso better with less weight on my hands.

Don't assume I know anything about what I say though. :madman: I really don't know what kind of dimensions I would really like or need. Maybe a small would work, maybe not. Maybe I need custom, maybe not. These are the questions that are driving me crazy. For a while I kept raising my bars higher and higher to take weight of my hands. Just recently I've discovered that I like to ride with my back lower, because at a certain height my back muscles can help hold me up without as much effort. Anywhere inbetween my arms feel like they have to prop me up. I'm thinking of lowering my bars even more, because maybe that would be even better. I JUST DON"T KNOW. That's the problem. :eekster: I would like to find a bike that I know fits, so I can just ride more instead of analize everything... :rolleyes:
 

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Wish I Were Riding said:
I weigh 185lbs. Maybe I do have long femurs? But I feel more comfortable on a bike with a slacker STA because I can balance my longer torso better with less weight on my hands.

Don't assume I know anything about what I say though. :madman: I really don't know what kind of dimensions I would really like or need. Maybe a small would work, maybe not. Maybe I need custom, maybe not. These are the questions that are driving me crazy. For a while I kept raising my bars higher and higher to take weight of my hands. Just recently I've discovered that I like to ride with my back lower, because at a certain height my back muscles can help hold me up without as much effort. Anywhere inbetween my arms feel like they have to prop me up. I'm thinking of lowering my bars even more, because maybe that would be even better. I JUST DON"T KNOW. That's the problem. :eekster: I would like to find a bike that I know fits, so I can just ride more instead of analize everything... :rolleyes:
As you're finding out, bike fit is very important.
First, your true height. (not what you tell people ;) )
Then your true riding inseam. (stand back against wall, shove a book up your crotch, or a straight edge, and put enough pressure upwards to simulate the pressure of you sitting on your saddle. measure the top of that leveled book, to the floor. your feet should be ~8" apart.)
Then you have the very basics of body dimensions to start determining bike fit.

If you are 68.5" with only a 30" inseam(riding), you have a long torso. That immediately puts you out of the range for a small Niner. This says your torso is 2.5" longer than mine. I suspect your inseam is longer than 30".
I'm 67.5" with a 31.4" inseam. The small(23.1" ETT) is very much perfect for me for SS, and just slightly long for geared. I feel SS needs ~1/2" longer ETT due to so much out of the saddle riding and body positioning.

The STA is really to just determine 1 thing, where you need your saddle in order to have the correct knee over pedal spindle (KOPS). With steep STAs, most people then need a setback post. People with long femurs on steep STAs need A LOT of setback on their posts, which may not really be available for purchase.

The things left that help determine bike fit (top tube length) are arm length, and flexibility.

What you describe above may be things like core strength issues or/and flexibility, in addition to bike fit. Typically, if in normal riding position, your armpit is at an angle greater than 95d, your cockpit is getting to be on the long side. 90d is a good rule of thumb, but there is room here for personal pref. Too long, and you will surely feel pressure on your palms, and the sensation of propping your torso up with your arms.

Competitivecyclist.com has a tool that walks through some of this. Some folks don't agree with the output, but the basics of bike fit are all covered there.

What is your current bike ETT? look on the Niner site, it has a good illustration of how ETT is measured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
rensho said:
As you're finding out, bike fit is very important.
First, your true height. (not what you tell people ;) )
Then your true riding inseam. (stand back against wall, shove a book up your crotch, or a straight edge, and put enough pressure upwards to simulate the pressure of you sitting on your saddle. measure the top of that leveled book, to the floor. your feet should be ~8" apart.)
Then you have the very basics of body dimensions to start determining bike fit.

If you are 68.5" with only a 30" inseam(riding), you have a long torso. That immediately puts you out of the range for a small Niner. This says your torso is 2.5" longer than mine. I suspect your inseam is longer than 30".
I'm 67.5" with a 31.4" inseam. The small(23.1" ETT) is very much perfect for me for SS, and just slightly long for geared. I feel SS needs ~1/2" longer ETT due to so much out of the saddle riding and body positioning.

The STA is really to just determine 1 thing, where you need your saddle in order to have the correct knee over pedal spindle (KOPS). With steep STAs, most people then need a setback post. People with long femurs on steep STAs need A LOT of setback on their posts, which may not really be available for purchase.

The things left that help determine bike fit (top tube length) are arm length, and flexibility.

What you describe above may be things like core strength issues or/and flexibility, in addition to bike fit. Typically, if in normal riding position, your armpit is at an angle greater than 95d, your cockpit is getting to be on the long side. 90d is a good rule of thumb, but there is room here for personal pref. Too long, and you will surely feel pressure on your palms, and the sensation of propping your torso up with your arms.

Competitivecyclist.com has a tool that walks through some of this. Some folks don't agree with the output, but the basics of bike fit are all covered there.

What is your current bike ETT? look on the Niner site, it has a good illustration of how ETT is measured.
My current bike is a Scandal and the ETT is supposed to be 23.7" but that's just going by what they say...

My wife just held a tape measure for me and I'm actually 69" tall (I slouch a lot though). My inseam (with your method) is really 30.5". I don't think I look like a freak? I'll have to find out how to measure my femur, to see if they are long. I'll have to ask someone what angle my armpit looks like when I'm on the bike. Maybe I could use a shorter ETT and lower bars? I'll check out that site too. I'm using 170mm cranks, and my knee is in front the the pedal spindle. My STA is probably slacker than 73* and I'm using a Thomson set-back post with my seat all the way back on it. I'm going to try 175mm cranks this weekend, I think that might make my knees closer to KOPS so I wanted to give it a try.
 

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Same size as you..

i'd fit a medium best. The HA is offset by the long ETT. Youll notice that the roaring mouse bikes all run real short stems to comp the longer ETT. Also you should at least try 175mm cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
jrm said:
i'd fit a medium best. The HA is offset by the long ETT. Youll notice that the roaring mouse bikes all run real short stems to comp the longer ETT. Also you should at least try 175mm cranks.
I will try 175mm cranks on my bike this weekend. I used to use them on my 26" bikes. Shouldn't be a problem to go back to them, although I've been on the 170's for almost a year now...

My current bike is a Scandal and has basically the same ETT as the Niner. I have a 90mm stem on it now. Do you think that's too long?
 

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rensho said:
As you're finding out, bike fit is very important.
If I may hijack this thread here for a moment...Rensho, you sound like you understand frame geometry & fit quite well. I am trying to compare two frames that have very similar geometry, but have a couple small differences, specifically ETT and HTA.

Number One has a 24.5" ETT and 71.5* HTA.
Number Two has a 23.7" ETT and 72.5* HTA.
Everything else is pretty much the same...STA are both 73*...BB drop is 60mm on both...ST c-c are close enough not to matter.

I know a 72.5* HTA is steeper and therefore should be "quicker" handling. But will that steeper HTA affect the overall cockpit length in any way? My gut tells me no, since an ETT is an ETT, and is not measuring anything physical in the first place, but is merely an imaginary horizonal line connecting two points on the bike, so the *only* thing the steeper HTA should change is handling. Do you agree?

Thanks!
Brian
 
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