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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Even after thorough bleeding, I find my SLX 665 levers will still pull to the bar with enough finger input. I can't tell if its the brake blade flexing, air somewhere in the lines, or something with the servo-wave mechanism.

My brake power is still sufficient, but I'm a little uncomfortable with the fact that I can still pull the lever to the bar. Anyone else notice this on other servo-wave brakes?
 

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Slurry said:
Even after thorough bleeding, I find my SLX 665 levers will still pull to the bar with enough finger input. I can't tell if its the brake blade flexing, air somewhere in the lines, or something with the servo-wave mechanism.

My brake power is still sufficient, but I'm a little uncomfortable with the fact that I can still pull the lever to the bar. Anyone else notice this on other servo-wave brakes?
Checked pads, rotor for extra wear, reach adjustment? My SLX brakes would do this from time to time, but was usually always able to remedy just by winding out the reach adjustment some or replace the pads if this didn't help . If this is not the case, then I would say it sounds like some air still in the line more than likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The brakes are fairly new, as are the pads and rotors. I don't see why I would have the change the reach adjust to fix the problem. I may give them another bleed...
 

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You can force the lever to the bar even if there is no air in the system. The lines expand slightly.

This is the same with automotive brakes. The vehicle stop fine, but you can physically push the brake pedal to the floor with the vehicle at a complete stop if you tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
frdfandc said:
You can force the lever to the bar even if there is no air in the system. The lines expand slightly.

This is the same with automotive brakes. The vehicle stop fine, but you can physically push the brake pedal to the floor with the vehicle at a complete stop if you tried.
Well that sounds like a logical explanation, but it's still annoying when it happens.

Anyone have a good recommendation for stiffer aftermarket hose kits for SLX brakes?
 

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frdfandc said:
You can force the lever to the bar even if there is no air in the system. The lines expand slightly.

This is the same with automotive brakes. The vehicle stop fine, but you can physically push the brake pedal to the floor with the vehicle at a complete stop if you tried.
You can't do that with my brakes - either the hayes or hygias. Weak lines will expand a bit though.

Its not the same with auto brakes - since most cars have power assisted brakes, you end up with a lot of extra pedal power, but, they still don't usually go all the way to the floor.

How much of the lever travel is being used by the pistons before they touch the rotor? If its more than you'd like, try taking the caliper off, giving the brakes a bit of a pump, and re-installing. Just don't let it get to far. Also, out of adjustment caliper to rotor/slightly warped rotor can also cause a longer lever travel, since you'd have to set it up for more stroke to keep the pads from touching.
 

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Slurry said:
Well that sounds like a logical explanation, but it's still annoying when it happens.

Anyone have a good recommendation for stiffer aftermarket hose kits for SLX brakes?
Look up Goodridge Fluid Transfer Systems. Their site is a bit hard to find their mtb stuff, goodridge scroll down for the "mountian bike application guide" or you can just look them up on chainreaction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
tyler243 said:
Look up Goodridge Fluid Transfer Systems. Their site is a bit hard to find their mtb stuff, goodridge scroll down for the "mountian bike application guide" or you can just look them up on chainreaction.
Goodridge doesn't make any hose kits for newer Shimano brakes, as far as I could tell.

The Jagwire 'Hyflow' kits seem to be the only available. I cant tell if they're any stiffer then the shimano hose, they don't make any indication of being any better then stock hoses (aside from using universal fittings and coming in different colors).

Interesting to see someone with an XT brake also has this problem. I own two other pairs of non-servo wave shimano hydros, a BR486 and a Alfine. Both have similar, if not cheaper hoses, and neither of them will pull to the bar if properly bled. This makes me think the servo-wave mechanism is to blame.

The_Rizzle said:
How much of the lever travel is being used by the pistons before they touch the rotor? If its more than you'd like, try taking the caliper off, giving the brakes a bit of a pump, and re-installing. Just don't let it get to far. Also, out of adjustment caliper to rotor/slightly warped rotor can also cause a longer lever travel, since you'd have to set it up for more stroke to keep the pads from touching.
The initial piston travel / lever throw is what it should be for a servo wave lever. I'd rather not manually forward my pistons, because a) you have to re-do it several times as the pads wear, b) the pads will contact the rotor during a point in the lever stroke that is designed for low leverage/high travel and provide less effective brake power.
 

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one thing that i tried and found worked for my hayes was to pump the pistons out a tiny bit before the bleed. normally, you want to make sure the pistons are pushed in all the way prior to bleeding. now, you won't be able to push the pistons all the way back in after that bleed because the fluid volume is greater. but after trying to firm up my levers by pumping out the pistons and re-installing, as the rizzle suggested, without success i found this other option to work. just be sure not to go to extremes with this method or you'll have constant drag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
mnigro said:
one thing that i tried and found worked for my hayes was to pump the pistons out a tiny bit before the bleed. normally, you want to make sure the pistons are pushed in all the way prior to bleeding. now, you won't be able to push the pistons all the way back in after that bleed because the fluid volume is greater. but after trying to firm up my levers by pumping out the pistons and re-installing, as the rizzle suggested, without success i found this other option to work. just be sure not to go to extremes with this method or you'll have constant drag.
Cool. Unfortunately, this still doesn't help me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
twinracer said:
Any updates?
My rear brake does same unfortunately.
Nothing yet. The verdict on the Jagwire hyflow hoses seems to be that they're worse or only just as good as the shimano hoses. I don't know of a stiffer hose will really help all that much either, I still think the servo-wave system is to blame.
 

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i cant unfortunately as i bought it used. Although the guy i bought it off told me he bough the fittings separate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
lel-95 said:
i cant unfortunately as i bought it used. Although the guy i bought it off told me he bough the fittings separate.
Nothing on the goodridge website mentions being compatible with the new Shimano brakes (new deore 595, SLX 665, new XT 775). Any chance you could get some photos of your setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
hrmm, interesting. Maybe any of the non-banjo fitting kits for shimano brakes will work on the new slx brakes.
 

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i e-mailed the guy that i bought the brake off, he said he took the calliper and lever to a bike shop and tried loads of different fittings and bought the ones that fit.

You could try doing that if your LBS stocks goodridge parts
 
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