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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Loving this bike but have had some bothersome issues after the first few months of riding. My pivot bolts loosened up big time after the first few rides to the point that the linkage had play. Tightened them back up but some are still coming loose on their own. I greased the bots that fit into the bushings as I thought that the bushings were having friction with the bolt heads and loosening them up. I am a little afraid of locktite I have the blue kind, but am still wary of putting it on. Silly as it sounds.:eekster:

Also the rear shock tracks very well but at 30% sag I am still getting harsh bottoming out of travel on small drops and jumps:madman: . I am still tinkering with air pressures but with that little amount of sag I am puzzled why it's bottoming out so easily and quickly.

Lastly, the seat post collar that comes stock on the Roscoe develops a random creaking every now and then. I have taken it off several times, greased all the contact points, and reinstalled. Now it is not making and serious noise so I will leave it alone.

Currently running XT cranks, XT cassette, and Mutano Raptor 2.3's.
 

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My other ride is your mom
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I think everyone has had the pivot bolt problem on GF bikes in general....don't use loc-tite....just crank down on them until you kill the play....mine came loose after 2 months but after tightening them down, I have not had any problems for the past 8 months.

Not sure what to say about the rear shock...I guess if you are bottoming out...reduce the sag to 20% and see if that works for you...also check your rebound. That itself would not account for the bottoming out off a single hit...but if you're hitting compressions in rapid succession, then it could contribute to it overall.

Seat post collar creaking......don't they all creak?
 

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My roscoe1 had some loose pivot mounts after the first couple of rides but now seem fine.
on the rear shock issue make sure after you put in your air to compress the shock by at least 55mm this opens second chamber allowing air to equalize, then check pressure again. hope this helps
 

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Use blue loc-tite...... I work for a Fisher/Trek Dealer... nearly all suspension bikes will work loose in this manner... the blue loc-tite is for temporary use and will not void your warranty... if you bring a bike into our shop with loose bolts we do this by default.... DO NOT use the red loc-tite.... Red = Fail

Also DO NOT crank the bolts beyond factory spec... this can cause your pivot bearings to wear out faster.

Seat post creaking..... grease the post.... usually gets it done... of course the creaking could be something else, it's hard to tell when actually riding the bike. You'd be surprised what a little dirt on a moving cable housing can sound like.

The Roscoe should run 25% sag max... hifi's are spec'd 25% but sometimes run better around 20% depending on trail conditions. Factory settings are for "intended" use... your riding may be more aggressive.
 

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Cooleymntbiker1,
Do you use the Talas system on your Roscoe II frequently?
Do you use Talas 120 - 100 mm fork settings to quicken Roscoe's overall handling characteristics, or only when climbing long steep hills?
Do you (need to) lock out fork & shock when climbing?
Does Roscoe II show much pedal bob?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Capricorn said:
Cooleymntbiker1,
Do you use the Talas system on your Roscoe II frequently?
Do you use Talas 120 - 100 mm fork settings to quicken Roscoe's overall handling characteristics, or only when climbing long steep hills?
Do you (need to) lock out fork & shock when climbing?
Does Roscoe II show much pedal bob?
Capricorn...
I do use the Talas option frequently as I prefer a lower headtube angle when climbing. A 140 mm front end can make steep climbing a little tough. I find the overal handling of the bike quite fast in 140 mm setting and matched with the stock short 90mm stem the bike handles like a dream with a super stiff front end. The bike climbs extremely well and does not bob. Compared to a racier bike like the EX series, Top Fuel, or Procaliber; there is no comparison. Those bikes will always be faster climbers, acceleraters, and have lighter stock weights.

But I love this bike. I have it at 29 lbs with more upgrades to come. It does not handle or pedal like a 5 inch bike. I also dig the ABP braking in that it's quite noticible under harder braking. If you want stiff bike to climb and have some fun with the downhills then go with something else. But if you want a bike that truly shines on the descents the Roscoe is it. It climbs fine for my tastes but I am getting a Top Fuel for my race days or riding days I want a quicker steed.
 

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I am having the same bottom out issue with my roscoe one. I have the rear sag at 20% or so and i still can bottom it out way to easy for what they are claiming the bike was designed for... I love everything else about it but this and I feel if I put yet more air in it I will start to loose some suppleness. We have put in a call to fox on friday to ask them about it but have yet to hear back from them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Propedal is when the shock is stiffer and open is when the shock is freer moving through the travel.

Remember, there is no lock out only propedal. You mentioning "1,2,3" settings I am guessing you are referring to the Fox RP23 which has 3 propedal adjustments.
 

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The first propedal setting (#1) is the lightest and #3 is the firmest propedal setting. There is open and propedal (adjust using blue switch to go back and forth between open and propedal) with three sensitivity settings for the propedal mode (pull out and turn/click red knob on RP23 for three propedal settings).
 

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cooley, when you say bottom out, is the rubber O-ring on the shock popping off the back of the shock? or do you feel it hit the bottom?
I hit full travel a couple times but it felt smooth , I didnt even notice it.
I think you are supposed to get full travel sometimes. thats why it is there.
 

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rangeroy said:
My roscoe1 had some loose pivot mounts after the first couple of rides but now seem fine.
on the rear shock issue make sure after you put in your air to compress the shock by at least 55mm this opens second chamber allowing air to equalize, then check pressure again. hope this helps
rangeroy is 100% right on this. when you change air pressure or set sag on your DRCV shock you need to be sure to cycle the shock past the plunger engagement point at 55mm. This will insure equal pressure in both shock chambers. If you haven't been doing this you may experience the harsh bottoming like you're reporting.
 

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I feel the same thing on mine and when I called fox to ask about it I got the same advice.. cycle through when adding air ect... I really want to like this bike but that feeling just plain sucks! it doesn't buck or anything at the bottom of the stroke it just thumps and feels like crap.
 

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I found that cycling the rear shock lead to a 10psi drop in air pressure. I also discovered that 9psi escapes when I unscrew my shock pump. So I pumped it up again, this time to 209 instead of the recommended 190. I went and played around on the bike in my backyard to cycle the shock again, then checked the sag and it was right on the 25% line. I plan to get out on the trails and test it out in the next couple of days.
 
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