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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a bike that I'm keeping, wanted something to play around on at a local bmx track and some dirt jump spots. Playing around with tube layout, not sure if I like it, we'll see when it's together. I think it will look good all put together, long and low.
 

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Now we're talkin'. That frame will build into quite the b!tchin' bike. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but does it take a mid BB? Are you going to run a rear derailleur?
 

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Wow - very cool! Lots of neat touches on that build. A cleaner Evil Imperial comes to mind. Not sure if you are an old schooler BMXer but it reminds me of some early 80's rigs: Torker with the twin top tubes (yours looks much better with those nice bends); Patterson with the low slung main tubes with higher seat tube; RRS with the dropouts. And a bit of JMC with the pinch bolt seat tube.

What's the geo on that thing? Like Vlad asked - mid BB and are you running gears or SS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
RAD! I'm more of a mountain biker, but I've heard of most of those brands, and seen the torquers and evils. Here's the geom, kind of a hybrid of different hardtails I've ridden in the past. And yes part of that weld is undercut ...i'll figure it out some day. The bike will have a chainguide up front and 9 spd out back. What does mid BB mean?
 

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A mid BB is a cupless, press-fit BMX bottom bracket. It's basically an American BB minus the aluminum cups that the bearings sit in. They press relatively easily into a specific BB shell.
 

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Vlad said:
A mid BB is a cupless, press-fit BMX bottom bracket. It's basically an American BB minus the aluminum cups that the bearings sit in. They press relatively easily into a specific BB shell.
YUP.In crude laymans terms Its kinda like a BMX style BB30(different sizes though,same concept), but BMXers we're ahead of the game years back.
 

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dr.welby said:
How'd you form that seat tube / top tubes interface gusset-y thing? Looks like two pieces clamshelled together?
Hmmm, I see that now too. I assumed the first time that it was a plate that was cut and radiused that way. But I could see what you're saying too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's a standard bottom bracket, with threads. Like the dr. guessed, there are two plates welded together and the weld was ground off. The plates were formed using a tool called a dimple dye, which is basically a male / female stamping tool that rolls a lip around a whole.
 

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blue.RACCOON said:
Like the dr. guessed, there are two plates welded together and the weld was ground off. The plates were formed using a tool called a dimple dye, which is basically a male / female stamping tool that rolls a lip around a whole.
Dimple die. That's what I thought it looked like, but I had no idea what the darn tool was called. Very slick.
 

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Looks great! I love the Torker look! And of course, I like a good lookin' aggressive styling.

Could you list the tube sizes and thicknesses? Especially the seat tube.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks. chainstays (3/4"x0.035") seat stays/top tubes (3/4"x0.035") down tube (1 3/8"x0.035") seat tube (1 1/8"x0.035") head tube (1 1/2x0.083"). Neglecting warpage from welding, the seat tube id is 26.797mm, so I'm planning on a little reaming and running a Thomson 26.8 post. And no gaurantees that running 035 wall aricraft spruce tubing everywhere is safe, but I've had good luck with 049 downtube / chainstays and 035 everywhere else, so I'm trying 035 and gonna see what happens.
 

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The geo looks really good. I like a little tighter chainstays nowadays but 16.25" are still pretty tight and I've done fine with bikes at that length. Plus you'll have a little extra room for bigger rubber and still use a larger front ring.

I thought it was just one plate for the seat tube junction - didn't see the 2nd on the bottom. Love the dimple die method - looks really clean.
 
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