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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, now I know its not the best bike out there, but it will be outgrown in a couple years. Right now though, I'm wondering whether it might still be too big for this summer, Iron Horse doesn't list standover height in the specs.

Another problem is which to choose: a 14" with 24" wheels or a 15" with 26" wheels. Its not a simple choice because in the photos I've seen it looks like the straight top-tube on the 14" might actually give it less standover height than the 15" (seems rather odd, I know...)

Anyhow, Can any one tell me what the standover height is on these?
 

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hard to say which one would work better. I think either one would be fine. Would it be possible to size the bike in person? That would be the best option.
 

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one other thing. PErhaps you could plug his measurements into the wrench science website?
 

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well, the black bike in this thread was a 15" frame with 26" wheels (although I had a 1/4" shorter shock to lower the bb and slacken the HA slightly) so that should give you an idea of standover. The 14" definitely has the lowest standover, but the 15" is still pretty low. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=36517&highlight=killington

My gf was riding this and she's 5'2" and fit it perfectly. Your son probably falls right on the line and would fit either a 14 or a 15", so it's up to you as to whether it'd be better to have a smaller, more nimble frame or a frame that might last a bit longer as far as size goes. Can get you exact standover if you need it.

Hope this helps.
dante
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all of the replies everybody!

I think the Yakuza freeride bikes might be a bit different than other Iron Horse models & previous years, in terms of sizing. The picture & link show why I'm not so sure the 24" would be the best choice... if they all had the same frame design I'd definitely choose the 24", but its not that simple.

Anyhow, still interested in finding out standover for the 2005 Aniki. Where I live I'll have to special order it, so it might not be possible to size it up in person.

Picture below is a 26" (frame size unknown).

I couldn't hotlink the picture of the 24", so go here to see it: Yakuza Aniki 24" you'll see that its a lot different than the 26":

 

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Awesome bike

Compared to what most kids are riding for mtb's at that age (whatever age that might be...)
You can trust Dante's info - I'm pretty sure he works at Ironhorse.
You have to take into consideration that altho the 14 has a straight top tube, it's also got wheels that are 2" smaller in dia. Plus, the smaller wheels will start, turn and stop easier than the 26's - probly give your kid a little additional confidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Ok for posterity sake:

I managed to get some claimed standover heights, can't confirm them but I've no reason to doubt them. The 14" is 27.75" the 15" is 29".

I think I'll get the 15" and put 24" wheels on it, standover should be about 28" even. The top tube will be 1" longer than with the 14" but that shouldn't be a problem and the bike won't be outgrown quite so quickly or be limited forever to 24" wheels.
 

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biker dad said:
Ok for posterity sake:

I managed to get some claimed standover heights, can't confirm them but I've no reason to doubt them. The 14" is 27.75" the 15" is 29".

I think I'll get the 15" and put 24" wheels on it, standover should be about 28" even. The top tube will be 1" longer than with the 14" but that shouldn't be a problem and the bike won't be outgrown quite so quickly or be limited forever to 24" wheels.
just measured bikes we have in the office (yup, work for IH). 14" was just about 28", the 15 & 17" were 29". all frame sizes (except the 19) have the same standover, but the 14" has the 24" wheels to lower it a bit further. have we tried to have as much standover as possible on all of our bikes, but it gets to a certain point where the suspension design gets in the way. hope this helps, and let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dante said:
just measured bikes we have in the office (yup, work for IH). 14" was just about 28", the 15 & 17" were 29". all frame sizes (except the 19) have the same standover, but the 14" has the 24" wheels to lower it a bit further. have we tried to have as much standover as possible on all of our bikes, but it gets to a certain point where the suspension design gets in the way. hope this helps, and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks Dante! Only other question that comes to mind is about suspension setup. Can the shock & fork on the Aniki be properly setup for a very light rider? (under 90 lbs) If so, what needs to be done?
 

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biker dad said:
Thanks Dante! Only other question that comes to mind is about suspension setup. Can the shock & fork on the Aniki be properly setup for a very light rider? (under 90 lbs) If so, what needs to be done?
I don't have the spring rates in front of me, but shouldn't be too over-sprung for his weight. if necessary it'd just be getting the right spring for the rear shock as the fork can be tuned pretty lightly. also there's the possibility of taking out one of the springs in the fork (or running
lighter springs)... FYI, the rear shock uses the same size spring as a Fox Vanilla R shock.

Hope this helps.
 

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travis get back to work right now

dante said:
just measured bikes we have in the office (yup, work for IH). 14" was just about 28", the 15 & 17" were 29". all frame sizes (except the 19) have the same standover, but the 14" has the 24" wheels to lower it a bit further. have we tried to have as much standover as possible on all of our bikes, but it gets to a certain point where the suspension design gets in the way. hope this helps, and let me know if you have any other questions.
travis get back to work right now
 

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aniki 24" sizing

hey i saw this and well my wife is looking for a frame to fit her better and she is 5'1"
this is about the only option in a full we have found but i would like some specific #'s if anyone has them actuall TT and downtube lengths
thanks
 

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allsk8sno said:
hey i saw this and well my wife is looking for a frame to fit her better and she is 5'1"
this is about the only option in a full we have found but i would like some specific #'s if anyone has them actuall TT and downtube lengths
thanks
actual TT is 21", actual DT is ~25". hope this helps, my gf is 5'1" and she fit the 15" with 26" wheels perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
We've decided to go for the 15" to get 26" wheel compatibility. Nothing against 24", but we want to lighten the bike up some with a few modest upgrades, and there isn't much out there in the way of light yet still moderately fat 24" tires & tubes.

The 15" does have a 1" longer toptube than the 14, but at 22" it is still reasonable.

Along with new rubber we also plan to upgrade the bars, stem, seatpost & seat; should be able to knock 2 or 3 pounds off which will make it much more suitable for a light rider, but without blowing the budget.

Best thing about this bike is the 1.5 steerer headtube...ready for a Sherman breakout plus (or ?) in a year or two.

Links to specs and geometry are here:
http://www.ironhorsebikes.com/freeride/yakuza_aniki.shtml
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
allsk8sno said:
hey i saw this and well my wife is looking for a frame to fit her better and she is 5'1"
this is about the only option in a full we have found but i would like some specific #'s if anyone has them actuall TT and downtube lengths
thanks
A few more asides:

Bear in mind that you can put 24" wheels on the 15" frame, you then get virtually the same same standover height as the 14" frame, but you would still have 26" wheel compatibility. I'd recommend getting the 15" & seeing how she manages it, and only if it seems necessary (after a good trial period) get a set of 24" wheels.

With 24" wheels on a 15" frame you would also have 1" lower BB height that with either the stock 14 or 15 setup, which might be helpful for her getting good at handling the bike, sooner. If she ever begins to think that the BB is too low, she'll also (by that point) definitely be ready for the 26" wheels to go back on.

If you get an extra set of rotors and cassette then you also have the option of quickly changing the set up of the bike to dial it in to the ride... going with a 26" front 24" rear to get aggresively slack angles for ripping downhills, both 24" for particularly technical rides, both 26" for all-round riding.

You could even use 26" rear 24" front to get people to laugh at you!...(actually it does work in a pinch for easy terrain with lots of climbing, stuff for which you really should use a cross country bike).

A shorter stem could compensate for the 1" longer toptube of the 15 over the 14.

Some other xs freeride bikes you can look at are a Norco Six (22.25" ttt) Devinci Saguaro/chillipepper/jalapeno (21.3" tt) Banshee Chapparral (20.67" tt). They are all 26" wheels; however none of them are anywhere near as good a value as the Iron Horse Aniki / Ojiki. Nevertheless....if money is no object, the Banshee is probably the best there is for a very small rider.
 

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biker dad said:
Some other xs freeride bikes you can look at are a Norco Six (22.25" ttt) Devinci Saguaro/chillipepper/jalapeno (21.3" tt) Banshee Chapparral (20.67" tt). They are all 26" wheels; however none of them are anywhere near as good a value as the Iron Horse Aniki / Ojiki. Nevertheless....if money is no object, the Banshee is probably the best there is for a very small rider.
she is on a giant warp with a 21.25" TT and it is too long, with a 45mm stem
if the actuall tt is 21" and the dt is that long also its not that good...
the chapparel is a heavy frame, and the only other one i have found, i am not sure on the weight of these ironhorse frames but i am thinking they are alittle lighter. her giant weighs about 35lbs with an 01 jrt on the front and not a supper light build.

she road a kona xs hardtail (shred) and we are thinking of getting this until i can afford a complete custom built frame,

its sad no one makes a great frame in these small sizes. a 6" travel freeride bike built for someone 5' tall and faily light....its just impossible, something has to give and its always components and other stuff...

anyways i guess its a wash but i bet if your gf, dante, was to ride something shorter she would be much more comfortable, my personal bike is damn short (azonic eliminator, 44" wheelbase) and i am 5'10"
http://www.pinkbike.com/modules/photo/?op=view&image=440802
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
allsk8sno said:
she is on a giant warp with a 21.25" TT and it is too long, with a 45mm stem
if the actuall tt is 21" and the dt is that long also its not that good...
the chapparel is a heavy frame, and the only other one i have found, i am not sure on the weight of these ironhorse frames but i am thinking they are alittle lighter. her giant weighs about 35lbs with an 01 jrt on the front and not a supper light build.

she road a kona xs hardtail (shred) and we are thinking of getting this until i can afford a complete custom built frame,

its sad no one makes a great frame in these small sizes. a 6" travel freeride bike built for someone 5' tall and faily light....its just impossible, something has to give and its always components and other stuff...
I guess the thing is that everyone doesn't want the same thing in an extra small bike...for us an extremely short top tube might result in the bike getting outgrown too soon. Don't be too quick to order that custom frame. I went through this with getting my wife a hardtail in the early 1990's. I got a custom frame built... as it turned out if I had waited a year or two I could have saved a bundle because perfectly satisfactory non-custom bikes became available in extra small sizes.

One other thing, you should be able to get down to about a 35mm reach conventional stem. In addition to the overbuilt "DH" ones, there are some light no-name ones around that are cheap and seem to hold up ok (knock on wood). Then there are zero-reach stems...some don't like them, but some smaller riders swear by them.

I know of one gal that uses a zero-reach stem with a non-riser bar... the stem itself has all the rise she needs (since the bars sit above the steerer); having the xc bars compensates a bit for the extra weight of the DH stem. It works for her.
 

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yeah i have thought about the zero reach but with the jrt the stanchions come up too high and actually intersect the bars, they currently hit even with a 45mm stem.
i am not planning on goin custom for atleast another year, perhaps the lack of rear suspension will help her too and she will be more comfortable on whatever else is out there
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
allsk8sno said:
yeah i have thought about the zero reach but with the jrt the stanchions come up too high and actually intersect the bars, they currently hit even with a 45mm stem.
i am not planning on goin custom for atleast another year, perhaps the lack of rear suspension will help her too and she will be more comfortable on whatever else is out there
Maybe something like a Funn Head Huncho stem would work. The reach is more than what you are looking for, but you can crank up the rise to clear the stanchions and get less reach, (effectively). It looks heavy, but if it does the job...you probably would have to experiment with several different bars to really dial it in -- could be a pretty unorthodox setup that ends up being the one that works the best. It says the rise can be setup to 30 degrees, but I can't see what limits it from going well beyond even 30 degrees.

http://www.brauns.com/gc/gc_item.exe?K=FUNN-HH-A-STEM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7148312351
 
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