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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

After perusing the Six Pack setup database I noticed that the majority of riders are running 6" forks on their Six Packs (rightfully so, as the frame was designed around a 6" fork). I'm wondering how those folks who are running 5" front forks like their setups?

Has anyone run both a 5" and a 6" fork and could comment on how did they compared?

Lastly, do people feel that the front end is at a reasonable height for technical climbing (with a 6" fork)?

Thanks for the info.
 

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Not sure about the 5" fork on the six pack, but if you want that front travel, you might inquire about the "5-Pack".

As far as 6-Pack climbing, see this thread for one of the forum's rock stars, Tscheezy, performing a pretty darn good up move on Gooseberry Mesa.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=150278

Other than that, most seem to say that the Pack will climb anything the Spot will, just a little bit slower.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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Here's what I found from riding it in this configuration;

For rides that are fairly level (no huge steep sections or chutes) it works fine. The benefit is that you can climb much better. I found that the difference between 5 and 6" for climbing was pretty big. I can climb a lot of things in the 6" setting, but it requires a lot more leg effort and energy, as opposed to the 5" setting. In this respect it's definitely a benefit to have the fork at 5". I still lower my ZAM150 to 5" for days when I know I'll be climbing for a large percentage of the time. Again, if the angle of the downhill isn't too extreme, it handles pretty well. It makes the bike "quicker" and makes it feel more like a trail bike, as opposed to a fr/dh type bike.

I didn't find that a 5" fork made a big difference in the "amount" of travel that I felt on each end, the difference wasn't significant to make it feel unbalanced in this respect.

On the other hand, 6" feels "right" when you are doing downhills, especially the ones where you lower your seat. If the slope is really steep and rocky, the difference between 5 and 6" can be pretty great, and just like with climbing, you can notice a big difference between the two, and 6" feels a lot better. For general DH/shuttling/fr, it's worth it to have 6" of travel.

If you're running a 5" only fork on the pack, the pack would have to be fulfilling some sort of "heavy duty bike" role for a heavier or more agressive rider, that isn't really looking for a versatile trail/fr/dh type bike. The bike would basically be like an XCE or Spot for a bigger or heavier rider, but the type of riding that it will probably see would be about the same as a spot, and the handling characteristics wouldn't be far off.

It's quite a decision. Big difference between how it climbs with 5 or 6", and big difference on how it descends with 5 or 6". On fairly level ground, it's quicker with 5".
 

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The big queztion is, what 5" fork?

if you're talking a fox or minute, thats worst case scenario since both have shorter axle-to-crown measurements (or maybe normal, depending on who you ask). If you are talking about a 5" marzocchi Z1, that will work much better since marzocchi's run about an inch taller.

When I first got my RFX, I ran it with a 5" Z1 for a while. It rocked for climbing depsite the weight. Not quite as confidence-inspiring on technical downhills, jumps or drops. My main compliant was handlebar height; even with 1.5" of spacers beneath the stem it was too low. That was all the steerer tube I had to work with so after 6-8 weeks I bought a 150mm fork.

Keep in mind also that the newer RFX's have slacker angles, so they work better with shorter forks. Long as you got enough steerer tube or a stem with rise, it'll work fine- not that I would suggest it over a 150 or even 170mm fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jayem, FM, thanks

for the meaningful input, I appreciate it. As much as I've tinkered with different designs, I've found that its usually best to use frames (at least well designed frames) as they were designed/intended. So much of how a bike handles is based on its geometry. I agree that a 5" fork just makes the frame too steep. I'll go with a 05 Z1 for the front of the pack, and get stronger for those technical uphills.

Thanks.
 

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Team Sanchez
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Hey DP, when I originally built up my pack, I put a 6 inch Z-1 on it. A month ago I switched to a 170mm 66. I honestly can't tell a difference in how the bike climbs. I climb a lot of short steep sections here where I live. I'd recommend getting a 6 inch fork, just for the extra travel. You will honestly not notice a difference in climbing performance. Just for fun, here is a pic of Lycra FR showing us the limitations of the 5 inch fork.... ;)
 

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I've had an '02 RFX (6") for about crack on a year now.

Whwn I first got it, I had a Fox Talas on the front (off my old Uzzi SL). It was OK, but nothing more and you could completely overface the fork without even begining to feel stuff through the back. Handling was fine on swoopy singletrack, but fairly nervous on the steep fast stuff. Did climb nicely though...

So I got a Pike. Have run this for most of the year. Still climbed pretty well (Uturn good), went down much better, certainly in UK conditions, but i found in the Alps this summer that when it got real, long term, steep and gnarly (DH course conditions) thet again, the Pike was ovefaced and I was having to back off a bit to maintain any semblance of control.

So a month or so ago I picked up a '05 Z1 FR1 in the end of year clearouts.Just seems right somehow. Climbing is a bit of a ***** now - glad I finally went 9 speed at the back,(Iacn still get up pretty much everything, but it is more of an effort) but DH is sooo much more balanced. It's also slackened the h/a just a touch which makes it a little bit better on 'shore skinnies too.

I'm probably going to do tscheezy's mod with the TAS cartridge to sort the climbing out a bit - I do like a fully active fork for some of the techier climbs I like doing.
 
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