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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently completed my single speed XC race bike. I figured I would share some photos and my thoughts to see where it goes with discussion.


On this frame I tried some new things like using my milling machine and updating to the modern standards of 44mm head tube and PF30 (i.e. 46mm) bottom bracket.

Cutting tubes with the mill was great. Huge step up from using files, grinding wheels, or the JD2.


I made my own fixture for cutting the chainstays and used it on this frame but next time around I will use my Anvil fixture. The fixture I made works find but the one from Anvil really is a lot nicer.


My Access65 JIG works well enough but in hindsight I wish I had gotten the Anvil. The HJ jig works but I do not have backpurge. It's not shown in the photo but I fed argon in through the back side of the top tube and back side of downtube when welding the head tube joint (outside the fixture). After fully welding the head tube joint I put the frame back in the jig to weld the bottom bracket shell area and seat tube with purge via the top of the seat tube. For the next frame, I will have paragon heat sinks with purge and some new purge enabled pucks from HJ.


The actual welding (close up). I am improving; this is my best frame yet.


I am using sliders on this frame and a PF30 bottom bracket shell.


I try real hard to get all my stuff in proper alignment. With sliders phase is also a concern. I built this to make 100% sure that everything was in phase. I really like the 142x12 TA system and see it as a big improvement. When building it is nice because I don't need to worry that the dropout is not fully seated into the fixture. Once the axle pin goes in there is no slop in the system. I took care and the alignment came out as close to perfect as I care to measure.


With the mill, I cut the slot and left a little tab so that I could later ream it and then remove the final bit by hand after the frame was built.


I made this plate for my jig so that I could put on the seat stays and maintain phase while tacking. Seat stays are always a pain but the plate helped. I also got an Anvil fixture for cutting the miter on the stays.



I had the frame done up with green powder like all my personal frames. It's kinda boring but I like the look of green with a white fork.


In any case, thanks for looking; let me know if you have any thoughts or questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice, the PF30 just for funsies?
I really like the idea of PF30. I am actually using this frame to prove to myself that it works and will also try an EBB on this frame (it has sliders for real SS but I have been wanting to try an EBB).

I hope the PF30 will work out. Just one ride on the bike so far but I like it. No creaking and it went together nice. Currently I have a Praxis BB in there. After a few months, I will try a problem solvers EBB to decide it it meets my needs.

If the approach works out I will do all my personal bikes with PF30 and sell my BB taps. Personally I would like to see just one standard so I can do all my bikes with consistent processes and until proven otherwise I think PF30 is the best standard in town. I am not sure if I will like the Problem Solvers EBB but it looks well made and if it works I plan to use it on a future build because it is lighter, cheaper, and better looking vs. sliders.
 

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Nice Mark!
I love the 'axle' for the sliders, i want one myself! I saw Anvil Don is making one as well.
I'll be interested in your takeaway after a few months of riding hard on the PF30. How did you ream/face the shell? I've been on the fence about trying one myself, just am waiting for the "standards" to settle down. Seems like there's general trust in the PF30 though. I like the big BB shell for welding, but what other benefits does it have in your opinion?

On your main tube mitering fixture, how are the tube blocks attached to that plate on the rotary table? Looks clean and easy to keep the miters in phase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How did you ream/face the shell? I've been on the fence about trying one myself, just am waiting for the "standards" to settle down. Seems like there's general trust in the PF30 though. I like the big BB shell for welding, but what other benefits does it have in your opinion?
I have the park headset tool and got the reamer from them for the PF30 shell and the 44mm headtube. Both worked well for me on this build although it does take a bit more effort to turn the oversized reamers.

Advantages:
* Single speed option with EBBs
* Support newer crank and bottom brackets
* Allows for a lower "Q" factor vs. what is possible with threaded shells
* Better face for checking alignment
* Less tooling to own and maintain (i.e. purge and heat sink blocks facing and reaming tools)

The shell war seems to be winding down and PF30 appears to be the last one standing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice Mark!
On your main tube mitering fixture, how are the tube blocks attached to that plate on the rotary table? Looks clean and easy to keep the miters in phase.
The blocks are from paragon. I put some threaded holes in the bottom of each block so that I can bolt them to a shelf that I put on the rotary table.


 

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I like how you used the paragon tube blocks for your notching fixture. I think I could do the same to use my lathe to notch. Also, the bike looks great. Can't wait to hear how you like the pf30 with EBB setup.
 
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