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always learning
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I can't get my chain tense enough. I disassembled the Singleator to make sure it was set up to pull down. I screwed it in, got it all placed and used my cone wrench to tighten it down clockwise. I've tightened it like crazy and it won't stay put. If I so much as drop off a curb it loses all the slack.

Should I set it to pull up instead? Is there something I'm not getting?!?

Thanks,
--Taylor
 

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Springs

Singulators come with 2 different springs. Are you sure you are using the one to push down? When you "load" the spring with your spanner you should only be able to move it 4-5mm up, I found this is best. That is enough slack to remove the chain for a flat but tight enough it won't let the chain off. Also check you alignment from rear cog to front chainring if they are not parallel the chain will drop also. Good luck.
 

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I've been having the same problem. It is really noisy pedaling too, big time derailler sound. I thought the noise was from a bad chainline, but I used several ways of measuring it and had a couple people help me check it and it seemed fine. I also made sure that the chain guide plates were set right for my chain.

My friend has had better luck setting it to push up rather than push down, that may help if you haven't tried it already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I actually got it used off eBay so I don't have both springs. Unfortunately I don't actually know which spring I have for sure. I believe it's the pull down and I know that's the stock spring that comes in it. Forgive my ignorance, but the diagrams I have don't give me a clear indication of which spring is in. Maybe that's my problem.
 

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Combat Wombat
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Singleater springs...

tgreathead said:
I actually got it used off eBay so I don't have both springs. Unfortunately I don't actually know which spring I have for sure. I believe it's the pull down and I know that's the stock spring that comes in it. Forgive my ignorance, but the diagrams I have don't give me a clear indication of which spring is in. Maybe that's my problem.
The spring for pushing up is red. If there is no red on your spring, then it is for pushing down. If a LBS does not have the spring you want, you can order it from Surly. Ideally, if your chain length allows it, you want to push up on the chain with the Singleater.
I have one of the newer Singleaters, with the cage around the pulley, and I have found that I can adjust it to actually put too much tension on the chain.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BrianU said:
The spring for pushing up is red. If there is no red on your spring, then it is for pushing down.
Interesting. Although it was greased up I didn't notice any red so it must be to pull down. I'll check with my LBS to see if they have the push up.

Thanks,
--Taylor
 

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From Experience - Do not use singlerator or ENO hub

The best thing to use is an old deraileur. I use a 1998 short cage XT. I hammer, I mean big time hammer doing imposible climbs with a 36X18 set up, and the cahin never skips. Even when I feel the frame bent a bit (True temper OX III). With the deraileur you can achieve a perfect chainline with out having to adjust your BB.

The problem with the singlerator, is the it is not chailine forgiving and it is noisy as hell. It puts too much friction on the cahin.

The deraileur works, period. You can set it up with a small piece of shifter cable.

The ENO was expensive, hard to obtain the right chainline, and it skips sometimes under power.

I recommend you sell the tensioner and get an old derailuer.

tgreathead said:
I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I can't get my chain tense enough. I disassembled the Singleator to make sure it was set up to pull down. I screwed it in, got it all placed and used my cone wrench to tighten it down clockwise. I've tightened it like crazy and it won't stay put. If I so much as drop off a curb it loses all the slack.

Should I set it to pull up instead? Is there something I'm not getting?!?

Thanks,
--Taylor
 

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always learning
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Zion Rasta said:
The deraileur works, period. You can set it up with a small piece of shifter cable.
I've actually got the old deraileur that I took off. How exactly do I set it up? I assume the shifter cable is used to tie something off, but what exactly? If you don't want to walk me thru it can you direct me to some instructions on the web somewhere?

Thanks,
--Taylor
 

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Zion Rasta said:
The best thing to use is an old deraileur. I use a 1998 short cage XT. I hammer, I mean big time hammer doing imposible climbs with a 36X18 set up, and the cahin never skips. Even when I feel the frame bent a bit (True temper OX III). With the deraileur you can achieve a perfect chainline with out having to adjust your BB.

The problem with the singlerator, is the it is not chailine forgiving and it is noisy as hell. It puts too much friction on the cahin.

The deraileur works, period. You can set it up with a small piece of shifter cable.

The ENO was expensive, hard to obtain the right chainline, and it skips sometimes under power.

I recommend you sell the tensioner and get an old derailuer.
Given how easy it is to adjust the Singleator to get the chainline right, I don't see how it isn't "chainline forgiving." Absolute bollocks IMO. Can't say I've ever noticed it being noisy either. Maybe you should have got your chainline right!

And how can it put more friction on the chain when it uses the same spring as a derailleur?!
 

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Just Ride!
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Ditch the spring and make it rigid.

1) Remove tensioner 2) remove C clip and dis-assemble 3) toss the spring and grease seal on the bench 4) slide the inner sleeve into the tensioner arm from the opposite side 5) run the hanger bolt through both and tighten down making the entire assembly rigid at the desired chain tension.

http://www.surlybikes.com/files/1x1Singleator.pdf
 

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Here is the procedure- Do not listen to siglerator lovers!

1. Cut an old shifter cable 6" or so.
2. Insert the short section of old cable into the derailleur's barrel adjuster from the rear (so the cable end rests in the adjuster). Note that it has to be the shifter cable end and not a brake cable end.
3. Push the deraileur with your fingers so that the upper pulley is right under your chain
4. The normal cable fixing bolt is used to lock the cable in place. The barrel adjuster can then be used to fine-tune the chainline.

Chainline tuned!

If you want pictures, I will send them to you. Please e-mail me at [email protected]

Please do not read the crap others tell you. See, if you spent $35 on a tensioner and it works so so, then you want to make yourself believe that it works. Trust me on this one. Have you read the threads on the EBB slipping? Or horrible problems with the ENO hub. You end up with a pile of different size Bottom Brackets (BB) so that you can adjust the chainline.

PS - Remember what happened in 2000, and 2001 when a lot of people were droping $4K on a Cannondale raven...... Sure it worked - NOT! What a pig.....

tgreathead said:
I've actually got the old deraileur that I took off. How exactly do I set it up? I assume the shifter cable is used to tie something off, but what exactly? If you don't want to walk me thru it can you direct me to some instructions on the web somewhere?

Thanks,
--Taylor
 

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operator error, that's why

I've set up SS for myself and others using singulators, derailleurs, horiz. dropouts, EBB and "magic gears" and they all work. Haven't tried ENO but I'm sure that works too.

I agree with you Seb, "Bollocks".

scorcher seb said:
Given how easy it is to adjust the Singleator to get the chainline right, I don't see how it isn't "chainline forgiving." Absolute bollocks IMO. Can't say I've ever noticed it being noisy either. Maybe you should have got your chainline right!

And how can it put more friction on the chain when it uses the same spring as a derailleur?!
 

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Not Bollocks - Its Frame and BB flex under torque

This is for you two Bisexual Bollocks,

If you ride easy trails, then I agree, they will work. The problem is when you hammer up hill or sprint. If you ride a steel frame, you will alter the chainline just by frame flex. Also BB flex could do it. That is why I went to a race face square taper and a Derailleur.

The derailleur holds the chainline better on a convert SS than anything else. And you spend $0.00 dollars. ENO ~$140 + rim + spokes + nipples + tape + labor, All the other junk you talked about is also expensive.

If you buy a SS specific bike with horizontal drop outs you do not have to worry about this crap.

steelbike said:
I've set up SS for myself and others using singulators, derailleurs, horiz. dropouts, EBB and "magic gears" and they all work. Haven't tried ENO but I'm sure that works too.

I agree with you Seb, "Bollocks".
 
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