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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Moved to a really rocky area few years ago and looking at finally stepping up from a hard tail to a full suspension. I have procrastinated getting a full-sus for a few years, primarily because of upfront cost and maintenance cost -- I'm a high-mileage rider (but not particularly aggressive).

That said, I've been saving and can nearly afford an entry level complete (2-3k, ideally), but I don't want to get stuck with something I cannot afford to maintain. This has led me to consider a single-pivot design with fewer bearings to maintain (and since I'll be doing most of the work, less of my time, too). Unfortunately, for true 2-bearing single-pivot bikes, it seems like the options are Starling, Orange, or BikesDirect.

The BikesDirect single-pivots that might be worthwhile are close to $2,000, which will come with a Rockshox Recon and Monarch. On the other hand, I can get a name-brand Giant or Marin, possibly delivered to a local shop for about that same price. While I'd be saddled with 6-8 more bearings to keep an eye on, I'd also have local warranty support. Then again, supply is so short now, I'd still (most likely) be ordering sight unseen, even if through a bike shop.

While I'd really like something from Orange (or similar) for the DIY of frame maintenance, the extra bump in budget there (from 2k to 4k) sure affords lots of maintenance on the entry level frames. But then, I can also go with a Gravity FSX, keep my budget and get the single pivot.

Is there anything I've missed? Am I just down to the personal decision of brand, off brand? Is there reason to avoid the single-pivot (or perhaps restated, a rationale to get a linkage-design and suck it up as regards maintenance)?
 

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Is there reason to avoid the single-pivot (or perhaps restated, a rationale to get a linkage-design and suck it up as regards maintenance)?
No, it's a perfectly good suspension design when done correctly, which BD is NOT. All of their stuff is very outdated in both geometry and suspension design. I'd avoid this at all costs, it's NOT the same as other bikes you're shopping for.

IMO you're looking at this all wrong. When it comes to maintenance, and you're replacing bearings, it isn't that big of a deal if you're replacing 2 or 8 bearings quite frankly. That's a drop in the bucket compared to brake pads, tires, chains, cassettes, BB's, etc.

Find a bike that suites your riding style and fits well. There are a lot of good bikes available that aren't super expensive. Yes the components will not be high end but that's the tradeoff when shopping for a budget full suspension.

The good news is a modern $3k full sus bike will be very fun AND more capable than bikes from only a few years ago, if maybe a few pounds heavier than more expensive options. Upgrade as funds allow but I'd recommend buying a frame that's worth investing in better components over time. It's the foundation, everything else is bolt-on and replaceable. Spend your money on a good frame.

There have been multiple quality articles written in the last year comparing budget full suspension bikes. Do some research/reading WITHOUT focusing on how many bearings the suspension design uses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Having a bit of trouble reconciling the answers in this thread with the comments running over at this other thread: Why do makers use ball bearings instead of bushings for...

That discussion has far more posts, and while I haven't counted, it seems that at least half of the posters are dealing with suspension maintenance on the regular. Whether or not that maintenance is difficult or not seems to depend on the bike. Determining the number of bearings (or bushings) on a given frame, and whether or not those bearings are industrial standards seems like quite a chore...

That pushes me back towards the single-pivot (but not entirely). I can't seem to identify the difference between the Orange Frames and the BikesDirect FSX. I ran a 26'' BD Hardtail years ago without complaint, and their $2,000 full-suspensions look rather modernized (including the choice of either single pivot or linkage) -- they even offer the Diamondback Atroz with a Recon/Monarch setup.

On the other hand, with the linkage-driven design being more readily available at a wider range of prices and specs, is there a resource that addresses bearing maintenance for different frames? I.e. How many and what type of bearings on a Marin Rift Zone vs a Giant Trance vs a Fezzari Abajo Peak? Or are they all standardized these days?

PS: The Polygon is certainly well-equipped at that price point!
 

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You're WAY over thinking this.

There's a reason why there aren't 100 threads that have already answered this multiple times... it's not that big a deal.

Choose the right bike for you based on your budget, riding style, and local terrain. Not because of bearings.
 

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The amount of pivot maintenance has a lot to do with the conditions you ride in. Any number of pivots is not a good indication of how much pivot maintenance you will need to do. As onespeed said choose a bike that fits your terrain and riding style.
 

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You're WAY over thinking this.

There's a reason why there aren't 100 threads that have already answered this multiple times... it's not that big a deal.

Choose the right bike for you based on your budget, riding style, and local terrain. Not because of bearings.
The bad old days are gone. I totally forgot that one time a manufacturer’s execution of bearing or bushing longevity was important to me. Have to say I continue to be leery of bushings.


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Having a bit of trouble reconciling the answers in this thread with the comments running over at this other thread: Why do makers use ball bearings instead of bushings for...

That discussion has far more posts, and while I haven't counted, it seems that at least half of the posters are dealing with suspension maintenance on the regular.
Selection Bias.

People who have not had problems with bearings or bushings are not likely to participate in a thread about problems with bearings and bushings.
 

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I think part of the disagreement is because of where you ride. If you ride in the red dust of Moab you are going to want the fewest pivot points to maintain. A set of bearings is not cheap. The older the bike gets the harder it gets to find the bushings or bearings. Ask a Klein Mantra owner. It also depends therefore on how long you keep bikes and where you ride.
 

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The issue is the other things that run on bearings on your bike, hubs, freewheel, BB and headset. Adding suspension bearings is only a marginal increase to this and any condition that makes the suspension bearings wear out faster is going to do the same to all these other bearings. In other words, it's not really much extra and you are going to be dealing with it anyway. There are one of two ways to deal with it. Have your bike shop do everything, or buy some bearing presses and get comfortable doing it yourself. The latter option is generally better in the long run, because you can source bearings independently from the bike or component manufacturer, which may spec crap bearings in the first place, but the former option is generally better for people that don't want to spend the time and effort doing this and maybe won't own the bike for more than a few seasons, when it's likely the model will still be supported by the manufacturer.
 

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The issue is the other things that run on bearings on your bike, hubs, freewheel, BB and headset. Adding suspension bearings is only a marginal increase to this and any condition that makes the suspension bearings wear out faster is going to do the same to all these other bearings. In other words, it's not really much extra and you are going to be dealing with it anyway. There are one of two ways to deal with it. Have your bike shop do everything, or buy some bearing presses and get comfortable doing it yourself. The latter option is generally better in the long run, because you can source bearings independently from the bike or component manufacturer, which may spec crap bearings in the first place, but the former option is generally better for people that don't want to spend the time and effort doing this and maybe won't own the bike for more than a few seasons, when it's likely the model will still be supported by the manufacturer.
Not apples to apples. The suspension bushings/bearings often require tools you don't normal have. Second most hubs, BB etc are now seal units and not exposed as much as the pivots.
 

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Not apples to apples. The suspension bushings/bearings often require tools you don't normal have. Second most hubs, BB etc are now seal units and not exposed as much as the pivots.
Both use sealed bearings. Both are exposed in the same way. Both require tools you don't normal have.
 
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· Elitest thrill junkie
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You are not looking at the same pivot bushings as I am.
Ok, I concede, you can't find bushings for a 25 year old Klein Mantra and it may have some wacky stuff associated with it. Relevance to thread?
 
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Ok, I concede, you can't find bushings for a 25 year old Klein Mantra and it may have some wacky stuff associated with it. Relevance to thread?
As I stated before - How long are you going to keep your bike? I own a Pinarello Dogma from 2005. Has an obsolete proprietary bottom bracket that can not be sourced. Nice bike if I could find a BB.
 
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