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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This should probably be in the "DIY DiNotte Style thread".

After installing a couple dozen forks, I have a box of steerer tube ends. OK, I'm a pack rat. So here's what I came up with.


A leftover 1-1/8" steerer tube end, some 1" copper cap, an endor star, and a maxflex board. The ID of steerer tubes vary a lot, but I pick one that had an interference fit with the copper cap - you can also shim the cap to make it fit tighter if your steerer ID is too larger.


The endor star (3 luxeon rebels) in the copper, and the optic.


Nice fit (the idea originated from an old copper tube light thread)


The stack with the maxflex board and a blank board with a micro switch and LED. The maxflex is soldered to the back of the copper cap via the u-shaped piece (soldered to the heatsink pad) and standoffs support the rest.


Front view showing optic


Back view showing switch and status LED.


Here is the stack and the trimmed steerer tube, compared to a DiNotte.


Pressing the stack into the steerer, with some thermal grease. Black tape was used to insulate the board edges.


Finished product with front cover. A rubber membrane was glued to the back that allows you to press the switch, and it has clear ports (sealed with clear silicone - the glue of choice!) so you can see the status LED.


Mounted on the bars.

Ideally I would have made this with a Cree MC-E, but I did not have one (yet!). The Endor optic has a wide 40-deg spread, very even, but not very penetrating. Nice on slow singletrack, not so good at speed. It would make a good companion to the DiNotte with a spot. I would not recommend using this star/optics combination as your only light for riding, unless all you do is slow singletrack. I'm going to try some secondary optics to see if the beam can be made more useful.

However, this design does not need any major machining equipment (pipe cutter, file, hacksaw, drill) and turns out a nice tidy small unit that will hold any star mounted LED and a 25mm optic.

I have some Ti steerer tube ends - looks like I'll try an MC-E version with that...
 

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Nice clean build, I like the simplicity. It sounds like you have some great materials to work with. I was curious why I have not seen other titanium lights before since it is such a cool material, so I checked the thermal conductivity chart here. Unfortunately it looks like it is not a good conductor of heat (worse than some steels).
 

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Looks real nice. I work in a bike shop so I am with you all the way on salvaging. We have bins of junked parts getting to be a mountain in the corner of the shop.
Head yer browser over to www.cutter.com.au and have a look at the new cree xp-e and the 20mm carclo triple optics. wont have to change much and you will get a more focused beam and more light. If you get the cree xp-e in the R2 bin even at a low current it could be 400lumens. I might have to whip one up my self.
 

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Bandolero
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Triple?

I was wondering about Cutter recently. They list the triple optic, but don't have a XP-E mounted up to a a triple PCB.

Has anyone ordered one like that directly or are just getting the 10mm round PCB and working with that?
 

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Bandolero
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I was told there would be no math on this test

HuffyPuffy said:
Hi Notaknob, I think this thread may be what you are looking for.
I got to the part where BikerJay started waxing eloquently and narcolepsy set in.

I'm thinking of building a triple with the XP-Es but haven't seen the triple PCB on the Cutter website...

The thought of de-soldering them from the PCB, re-mounting three of them on a 20mm piece of aluminum and then re-soldering them isn't something I want to take on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
HuffyPuffy said:
.... I was curious why I have not seen other titanium lights before since it is such a cool material, so I checked the thermal conductivity chart here. Unfortunately it looks like it is not a good conductor of heat (worse than some steels).
All metals are pretty good conductors, the copper provides the heat dispersion, the casing is just a heat sink that transfers to the air. And besides, Ti isn't really for performance...

p97z said:
..I was thinking of using the endor with that optic. What don't you like about the beam? Does an L2 optic fit that star?
The optic is nice flood - I got it for a room lighting project. A bit more of a hot spot and throw is useful for biking. I don't know of an L2 optic that will work.

bikerjay said:
...have a look at the new cree xp-e and the 20mm carclo triple optics....
The XP-E is Cree's version of the Luxeon Rebel, which is a pretty nice chip - odd that more people don't use it. The small form factor makes for a more efficient light, and I think Luxeon under rates their chips (compared to Cree). The L&M Seca uses 3 rebels, and it's a pretty nice unit. If I can get that carclo optic, I'd like to see if it will work on the endor star. I have not seen any triple XP-E star yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: triple XP-E

I never found any good spot optics (even DIY versions) that worked well with the Luxeon Endors - too bad as they have an excellent neutral colour. They do make excellent flood lights.

I upgraded the unit to a triple XP-E with the 18deg optics:


The wiring is left over from the Luxeon Endor. Here it is with the optic installed:


I'll add a glass cover plate before I ride. I had always intended to put a MC-E into this thing, but the triple XP-E looked more interesting. (I did upgrade my old Dinotte Ultra-5 with the MC-E)

I like a small simple bright package. Of course Troutie beat me to it (https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=500403). However, this one only need a saw and drill (no milling machine or lathe) and the maxflex gives you plenty of brightness levels.
 
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