I like the concept but prefer my cables trimmed quite a bit shorter than that.
If you use a really short section of shrink tubing, will it hold?
=sParty
If you use a really short section of shrink tubing, will it hold?
=sParty
I think it would.If you use a really short section of shrink tubing, will it hold?
=sParty
That's pretty cool and I've actually never seen one of those before. How close of a cut can you get and then still use that?I use this for all cables. Portable Melting Cutter Set - ALLIGATOR Cables, Wires Company
Damn -- I want that!I use this for all cables. Portable Melting Cutter Set - ALLIGATOR Cables, Wires Company
It has about 3/4 inch of cable length from the component to the cut due to the width of the jaws. It cuts and melts the cable just like the ends of bulk cable. It's more like a spot weld than anything else, solder won't work on bicycle cables from my experience. If I'm somewhere my Alligator isn't handy, I use heat shrink tubing that is lined with hot glue- available on Amazon.That's pretty cool and I've actually never seen one of those before. How close of a cut can you get and then still use that?
I reckon you could always dab a little bit of solder on the end too though.
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Unrelated but I was thinking of some high-power CA glue like RC tire glue, that stuff is tough as nails. I may try that on my next cable.If I'm somewhere my Alligator isn't handy, I use heat shrink tubing that is lined with hot glue- available on Amazon.
If you have a place like Fastenal, you can get heat shrink tubing with glue inside. Would work well.I like the concept but prefer my cables trimmed quite a bit shorter than that.
If you use a really short section of shrink tubing, will it hold?
=sParty
Never had a problem with metal crimped cable ends. What's wrong with them?I'm sure there are those of you who know this fix. Those metal crimped cable ends are garbage. I can't remember where I learned this method of using shrink tubing for cable ends but I've been using this method for quite awhile. Thought I would share
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I've tried that in the past on stainless or coated cables where solder doesn't stick.Unrelated but I was thinking of some high-power CA glue like RC tire glue, that stuff is tough as nails. I may try that on my next cable.
My road bike has 1cm cuts of shrink on ALL the cables. I was out of cable ends, but had tubing. Been like that.. a long time now.I like the concept but prefer my cables trimmed quite a bit shorter than that.
If you use a really short section of shrink tubing, will it hold?
=sParty
People that don't understand that you need to replace your cables yearly, or lay their bikes down on the derailleurs, those are the types with the missing caps and frayed cable ends. It was never a problem for me, although I prefer the look of heat shrink tubing. Nice thing about the Alligator is we can glance at a bike that comes in our shop and tell right away if we did the work by how the cables were cut.There are actually people out there who have trouble with regular cable end caps?
Seriously?
Mind. Blown.
I will wait for the version that works with axs.Now that $50 dollar valve stems are a thing, it is time to make my Shark Tank attempt at starting a company that sells $25 dollar cable end caps.
10% discounts for MTBR members with coupon code "StickThisOnYourCable10"
Use regular end caps, crimped with this good crimper.I found that the crimper on the park tool cable cutter doesn't crimp it enough. The cable ends falls off. I use this non insulated wire lug crimper. It can over crimp the soft cable ends if pushed too hard. with this method I have not lost a cable end.
heat shrink sounds cool if it holds but I also would only want about a 1/2 inch or so. Might give a try.
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